Thread: Router Table Warpage?

How big is the sheet of ply & what size were you planning to make the top?

If it is 8' x 4' (2400mm x 1200mm) IE full sheet, then you could have a problem.
if it is 3' x 2' (900mm x 600mm) it is less likely to be a problem.

I would use a good solid frame under it & that will help stop it from moving too.

It was a full sheet, but I've ripped a Piece 36"x21" to use as the top.
As for the base, I've already made the frame using some F17 Hardwood that I bought and then dressed (90x45).
It will end up being an enclosed cabinet in the end, but I'm not up to that stage yet.

Originally Posted by maxdangerous

I've just spent $150 on a beautiful sheet of 38mm ply that I got from Brim's @ half price on sale, (thinking this would make a ripper top for my table)

Extravagant if you are only going to make the top with it

Originally Posted by munruben

Extravagant if you are only going to make the top with it

I'd agree with you but the boss (missus) has already got the rest of it reserved for a unit she wants built near the fireplace... helped me justify getting it in the first place

If I, or most woodworkers, judged a purchase of machinery etc. on the basis of whether it was "extravagant", I'm sure most of us would have a lot more room in our sheds.

Having said that, when I looked at building a router table I discounted plywood because I don't consider it stable enough. I don't know what type/quality plywood you bought, so it is hard to determine whether you did the right thing. I used 32mm laminated MDF because it is very stable, and not coincidentally a fair bit cheaper.

I don't think setting the alum rails into is going to add to the stability.

As far as the 10mm phenolic plate is concerned, I paid $100 (extravagant?) for my Woodpecker phenolic insert, and I think it is the ducks' guts, so I don't think you'll go far wrong there.

Just went and had a look at Woodpecker's site..... I feel another extravagance coming on.
Hmmmm anodised aluminium or TLR phenolic, decisions decisions

I bought mine here

I've shown pictures of WIP here

Thanks Big Shed, I think I'll follow your lead with that insert.
Cheers
Max

To avoid or minimise warpage - it will happen with MDF, and ply won't turn into blotting paper if you put a drink on it - just make sure that you seal ALL surfaces of the sheet - top, bottom & sides (OK, sides are optional for ply)

The thing will warp every time the humidity changes if you don't treat the top & bottom surfaces EXACTLY the same - 2 coats on top, 2 coats on the bottom - laminex on top, laminex on the bottom - whatever.

Originally Posted by maxdangerous

............Cheers
Max
PS. I was going to use a piece of 10mm Phenolic Sheet to make the centre thingamybob that the router mounts to... please tell me this is the way to go before I stress over another possible goof.

I made the insert on my table out of 300 x 300 10mm phenolic. Turned out good. $30.00! Machine screws hold the TR12 router. I planned to use machine screws to fix the insert to the table but have not done that yet. No goof there Max.

Originally Posted by MurrayD99

I made the insert on my table out of 300 x 300 10mm phenolic. Turned out good. $30.00! Machine screws hold the TR12 router. I planned to use machine screws to fix the insert to the table but have not done that yet. No goof there Max.

Mine is aluminium (from Rockler) but just curious Murray--did you put any adjusting screws up from the bottom in case you needed to level the insert? Or is it just dead level?

Originally Posted by Honorary Bloke

Mine is aluminium (from Rockler) but just curious Murray--did you put any adjusting screws up from the bottom in case you needed to level the insert? Or is it just dead level?

Morning Bob. I routed, dug with a chisel and scratched and sanded.... got it pretty good then sealed it with polyurethane. It never occurred to me to put in levelling screws - grubscrews, I guess, like on the TS insert but of course that is a good idea, wish I'd thought of that! It is OK as is but if you take it out for any reason, chips and shavings fall into the recess and need to be blown out. I will fix it in with 4 big machine screws eventually because it is a bit of a pain adjusting the router depth (height) fighting against the insert. Reason I haven't so far is I need to buy a hefty countersink - that I'll probably never use again. $50 or so.... nnnngggggggg! BTW, I did put crude height adjusters on the table top so I could line it up on the left hand side of the TS as an extension table. It is near enough, given the TS is on a rollaround and the router table is too... and height can vary a thou here or there on the concrete floor!

Hi Max,

I was going to use a piece of 10mm Phenolic Sheet to make the centre thingamybob that the router mounts to... please tell me this is the way to go before I stress over another possible goof

I just bought a Torquata (sp?) router table from Timbecon - had a toss-up between a phenolic plate or an aluminium plate - ended up with the aluminium plate for a few $$s more as I'd read somewhere (probably the 46th thread I looked at - this forum is fantasic!) that phenolic is pretty impossible to make dead flat, but aluminium plates are milled so can be more like cast iron plates. Not sure if it is true, or if it will ever make a difference, but I had the money so...
Cheers,
Chumley

Originally Posted by Chumley

I just bought a Torquata (sp?) router table from Timbecon - had a toss-up between a phenolic plate or an aluminium plate - ended up with the aluminium plate for a few $$s more as I'd read somewhere (probably the 46th thread I looked at - this forum is fantasic!) that phenolic is pretty impossible to make dead flat, but aluminium plates are milled so can be more like cast iron plates. Not sure if it is true, or if it will ever make a difference, but I had the money so...
Cheers,
Chumley

Hi Chumley, as far as I'm aware there are two Torquata router plates sold by Timbecon. One is aluminium, the one you chose and an excellent choice I must say. The other is an acrylic plate, not phenolic. The difference between phenolic and acrylic is that the phenolic is a thermosetting plastic and the acrylic is a thermoplastic plastic. What's the difference I hear you ask? Thermoplastic will soften and melt at higher temperatures, the thermosetting phenolic will not, it cannot be re-melted. It is therefore a more dimensionally stable material than the acrylic. Personally I would never use a thermoplastic material where dimensional stability is required, as in router plate.

Would I chose aluminium or phenolic for router plate, I would use either. In the end it comes down to cost. I went for the phenolic Woodpecker plate because it was cheaper than the aluminium plate from Timbecon. I did consider making my own from 10mm aluminium, but I am no machinist and the zero clearance insert would have defeated me.

So if you had a 10mm aluminium or phenolic plate, it would be very suitable for a router insert, making the zero clearance inserts would be a challenge.