Thread: Routing Handleless Doors

Hi sprog1,
I don't think you can get a bit that will do both of the cut's that you want in one. How are you cutting the door's to size if you are cutting them yourself then simply round the edge of the door panels then re cut the top edge at 45deg to achieve the desired profile if you are getting them cut for you by others then don't forget to round over the edge first before you cut the angle as there will be nothing for the bearing of the bit to run on unless you are using a router table and fence or a fence on the router itself and not relying on the bearing on the router bit. (I hope this makes sense.)
Regards Rod.

The easiest way is to cut the bevel on a table saw or circular saw with a guide rail. For the round, just get whatever size bit you like (2mm round is normal for that sort of work) with a guide bearing.

Make sure you run the round before you cut the bevel so the bearing has something to follow

Beat me to it by 30 seconds Rod

Are you refacing an existing kitchen or building a new one? If it's the latter, there is another way to go about it.

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

The easiest way is to cut the bevel on a table saw or circular saw with a guide rail. For the round, just get whatever size bit you like (2mm round is normal for that sort of work) with a guide bearing.

Make sure you run the round before you cut the bevel so the bearing has something to follow

Originally Posted by Rod Gilbert

Hi sprog1,
I don't think you can get a bit that will do both of the cut's that you want in one. How are you cutting the door's to size if you are cutting them yourself then simply round the edge of the door panels then re cut the top edge at 45deg to achieve the desired profile if you are getting them cut for you by others then don't forget to round over the edge first before you cut the angle as there will be nothing for the bearing of the bit to run on unless you are using a router table and fence or a fence on the router itself and not relying on the bearing on the router bit. (I hope this makes sense.)
Regards Rod.

I didn't think there was one cutter for both, but I had to ask, they are making new profiles all the time. I'm cutting the doors myself, & yes Rod, it does make sense. Thank you to both of you for the information.

Originally Posted by CMB

Are you refacing an existing kitchen or building a new one? If it's the latter, there is another way to go about it.

Hi CMB I'm building a new Kitchen

Originally Posted by sprog1

Hi CMB I'm building a new Kitchen

If you use an 'L' shape rail across the top of your carcasses you will not need to profile your doors. The flat of the 'L' just needs to sit 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch lower than the top edge of the door and the upright 3/4 or more behind the door. Your sink (and possibly stovetop) cutout will determine how far back you can go. Normal rails sit between the cupboard sides but the "L" runs the length of each elevation and is installed after the carcasses have been fixed off.

Makes for a nice detail. If you like the idea and need more info just let me know.

Originally Posted by CMB

If you use an 'L' shape rail across the top of your carcasses you will not need to profile your doors. The flat of the 'L' just needs to sit 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch lower than the top edge of the door and the upright 3/4 or more behind the door. Your sink (and possibly stovetop) cutout will determine how far back you can go. Normal rails sit between the cupboard sides but the "L" runs the length of each elevation and is installed after the carcasses have been fixed off.

Makes for a nice detail. If you like the idea and need more info just let me know.

Thanks CMB thats a different way of doing it, I'll give it some thought

Originally Posted by sprog1

Thanks CMB thats a different way of doing it, I'll give it some thought

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Here's a shot of some kitchen cupboards and drawers in my house. Not my handywork, nor is it executed as well as it could have been. Still effective though.<br>
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<img class="previewthumb" id="vbattach_296077" alt="" src="https://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=296077&amp;stc=1" attachmentid="296077"><br>
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These shots are from a couple of houses I helped build over the last few years. About as good as it gets for said detail.<br>
<br>
<img class="previewthumb" id="vbattach_296078" alt="" src="https://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=296078&amp;stc=1" attachmentid="296078"> <img class="previewthumb" id="vbattach_296079" alt="" src="https://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=296079&amp;stc=1" attachmentid="296079"><br><br>All the best with your project.<br type="_moz">

Originally Posted by CMB

Here's a shot of some kitchen cupboards and drawers in my house. Not my handywork, nor is it executed as well as it could have been. Still effective though.



IMAG0244.jpg



These shots are from a couple of houses I helped build over the last few years. About as good as it gets for said detail.



Bay-St-12.jpg Carp8_web.jpg

All the best with your project.

Hi CMB, Very nice, there's not many kitchens that size over here. I like the white one's. What did you use for the doors, MDF & white 2 pac or MDF & Acrylic sheets? What did you use for tops? I also like the one's in your house, but I stay away from wood because most of what you get here is still wet, & with the humidity over here it soon moves. To get decent wood it cost an arm & a leg. Thanks a lot for the Pics

Originally Posted by sprog1

Hi CMB, Very nice, there's not many kitchens that size over here. I like the white one's. What did you use for the doors, MDF & white 2 pac or MDF & Acrylic sheets? What did you use for tops? I also like the one's in your house, but I stay away from wood because most of what you get here is still wet, & with the humidity over here it soon moves. To get decent wood it cost an arm & a leg. Thanks a lot for the Pics

G'day sprog1. Doors etc are 2pac over MR MDF. The MDF is manufactured with a coating specifically suited as a prepared surface for paint finishes. The tops are solid surface (Hanex/Corian). Be aware that those two shots are from multi-million dollar houses. My aim in posting them was to demonstrate the "clean lines" effect that can be achieved if you take a particular detail that little bit further.

Originally Posted by CMB

G'day sprog1. Doors etc are 2pac over MR MDF. The MDF is manufactured with a coating specifically suited as a prepared surface for paint finishes. The tops are solid surface (Hanex/Corian). Be aware that those two shots are from multi-million dollar houses. My aim in posting them was to demonstrate the "clean lines" effect that can be achieved if you take a particular detail that little bit further.

Hi Craig, has far has I know, you can't get that MDF over here, in fact i've never heard of it. I've only been useing MDF since coming to live in Thailand. Corian I know, but it's 3 times the price of Granit over here so it's out of my price range. Thanks for all the Info

Originally Posted by sprog1

Hi Craig, has far has I know, you can't get that MDF over here, in fact i've never heard of it. I've only been useing MDF since coming to live in Thailand. Corian I know, but it's 3 times the price of Granit over here so it's out of my price range. Thanks for all the Info

sprog1, at a minimum ensure you use MR (Moisture Resistant) grade MDF (depending on availability, you may be able to get HMR also).

I personally wouldn't recommend solid surface for the average kitchen regardless of it's cost... just my 2 cents worth. Once again, I was just trying to offer a visual on what can be achieved using an alternate way to do handleless doors.

All the best with your project.

Originally Posted by CMB

sprog1, at a minimum ensure you use MR (Moisture Resistant) grade MDF (depending on availability, you may be able to get HMR also).

I personally wouldn't recommend solid surface for the average kitchen regardless of it's cost... just my 2 cents worth. Once again, I was just trying to offer a visual on what can be achieved using an alternate way to do handleless doors.

All the best with your project.

Hi Craig, I will have to ask which grades of MDF are available here.
Why wouldn't you recommend solid solid surfaces?
Don't worry if I don't reply to this, I'm off on tour on my motor bike for a week tomorrow, so I will reply when I return. Thanks