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Thread: Routing MDF

  1. #1
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    Default Routing MDF

    I am looking at replacing my MFT top with a MDF replacement ,I have never used MDF in a routing sense before therefore would appreciate any pointers in an appropriate 20mm diameter router bit to use .
    Whether to use a straight bit or spiral bit remains a possible choice although spiral bits in this Diameter can get a little exxy!

    Any comments most appreciative thanks.
    Johnno

    Everyone has a photographic memory, some just don't have film.

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    Most router bits are not designed to plunge straight down. One of the few is the Festool one (#491972) but it is an 8 mm shaft and will set you back $115.50. CMT also have one but I don't have any details.

    A better option is to get the MkII Parf Guide System which I think is currently only available imported direct from Axminster.

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    Carbitool do an End Cut plunge router bit, but itís 19mm

    87996B3C-94CB-4589-9A9E-831CF6612DD7.jpg

    Iíve got a couple of these plunge bits and they work fine in timber but I havenít tried them in MDF

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    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    I have looked at the Parf system,it does look good even includes the router bit as part of the package.I have however decided to go with the Dominofix jig as shown here https://www.taigatools.com/ which has been delivered hence my query regarding the right plunge router bit for MDF.
    Johnno

    Everyone has a photographic memory, some just don't have film.

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    That Taiga jig is pretty nifty.

    Given you use a 30mm copy ring, why not just acquire a smaller plunge bit and just wiggle it to remove the excess? Sure it would be *nice* to do it in one plunge, but to save 3 seconds at $140 seems.... silly.

    Weird they don't also sell the 20mm bit.....

    edit: perhaps you could use this 20mm bit https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Double-.../dp/B000P18UNS from Freud, but obviously its no good for straight out plunging. If you pre-drill the centre of the hole with a 10mm Forster or drill bit (or such) with a hand drill, you should be right. No need to even be half accurate on the first one....

    Thought 2: perhaps, like some of us, you may have a second router? Buy a small 1/2" (or so) plunge bit, plunge the centre, then use router 2 and the 20mm plunge bit? Bit of extra work, but saves spending a load on a specialised bit and/or fitting a 20mm Forster bit to the router.... (yikes!)

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    Possibly a dumb question, but why exactly do you need a 20mm bit? If you're routing, just use a template guide and a smaller bit, if you want holes, get a 20mm drill bit.

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    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    That Taiga jig is pretty nifty.

    Given you use a 30mm copy ring, why not just acquire a smaller plunge bit and just wiggle it to remove the excess? Sure it would be *nice* to do it in one plunge, but to save 3 seconds at $140 seems.... silly.

    Weird they don't also sell the 20mm bit.....

    edit: perhaps you could use this 20mm bit https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Double-.../dp/B000P18UNS from Freud, but obviously its no good for straight out plunging. If you pre-drill the centre of the hole with a 10mm Forster or drill bit (or such) with a hand drill, you should be right. No need to even be half accurate on the first one....

    Thought 2: perhaps, like some of us, you may have a second router? Buy a small 1/2" (or so) plunge bit, plunge the centre, then use router 2 and the 20mm plunge bit? Bit of extra work, but saves spending a load on a specialised bit and/or fitting a 20mm Forster bit to the router.... (yikes!)
    Hi WP.
    I have been on to them regarding a router bit which I thought should be part of the package.
    The use of 2 routers is quite a good notion which would perhaps lessen breakout, however using the same router same copy ring but with 2 varying sized bits would also work as the copy ring is paramount to using the jig.
    With their video it is all about precision so no off sets become apparent across the width/depth of the board.As I already have the 30mm copy ring for the router which is nice & snug with no play I thought to go with their thinking in routing the holes.I managed to get my local bloke sourcing a Carbi-Tool T1420 M router bit ,a 20mm 1/2"shank one to supplement a second bit in perhaps 10mm dia profile.
    Johnno

    Everyone has a photographic memory, some just don't have film.

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    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    Possibly a dumb question, but why exactly do you need a 20mm bit? If you're routing, just use a template guide and a smaller bit, if you want holes, get a 20mm drill bit.
    I plan to do some test cuts primarily with the 20mm dia bit then with 10 & a 20 mm bits to see the result .
    Johnno

    Everyone has a photographic memory, some just don't have film.

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    Quote Originally Posted by John Saxton View Post
    I managed to get my local bloke sourcing a Carbi-Tool T1420 M router bit
    You know you can't plunge with that, right?

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    Quote Originally Posted by John Saxton View Post
    however using the same router same copy ring but with 2 varying sized bits would also work as the copy ring is paramount to using the jig.
    With only one router and one copy ring you would be constantly swapping cutters every time you move the template to a new location. With two routers this might work but it would be easier to just drill the first smaller hole when you move the template and enlarge it with the router.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bohdan View Post
    With only one router and one copy ring you would be constantly swapping cutters every time you move the template to a new location. With two routers this might work but it would be easier to just drill the first smaller hole when you move the template and enlarge it with the router.
    If a test piece piece works out using the two router bits.I am going to rout all with the smaller bit then follow up with the larger bit.
    Johnno

    Everyone has a photographic memory, some just don't have film.

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    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    You know you can't plunge with that, right?
    If the clearance rate is lessened by the smaller bit first ,would this not then allow for the larger bit as mentioned to compliment for a clean hole in MDF just a thought here.
    Johnno

    Everyone has a photographic memory, some just don't have film.

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    Yes that should work.

    I'm still at a complete loss as to why you aren't just using a 20mm drill bit though

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    Quote Originally Posted by John Saxton View Post
    I am going to rout all with the smaller bit then follow up with the larger bit.
    You can't move the template to a new location until the holes are 20 mm because you use the 20 mm dogs to locate the template in its new location off the 20 mm holes that you have just made.

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