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  1. #16
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    Aug 2004
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    I'd be using a mortising machine (MM), yer I appreciate they cost a few bob, but given the amount you have to do the MM will be a lot easier/quicker that a router.
    Experienced in removing the tree from the furniture

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Albury
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kelvin M View Post
    Good advice Elan. I’m curious if router burn in a mortise weakens joint strength when glued up? I’m anticipating some burn in my Tassie Blackwood
    If you can get the speed that you feed the router bit to the work right burning shouldn't be a problem. Do a few practices before you start on the job. Remember, if the bit is getting hot enough to burn the wood it isn't doing the bit much good either - keep it moving.

    If a lot of the mortises you have to do are the same setup I'd be very surprised if a mortise machine would be quicker and a router is a hell of a lot more versatile.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
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    2,627

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kelvin M View Post
    The grab is happening once, occasionally twice on the plunge at varying depths with the spiral bit & most often when doing the first or 2nd full plunge at either end of the mortise, although I have had it do the same on some middle plunges too.
    I'm not disputing the advice that full depth plunges at each end are the correct method. I'm just a hobby woodworker. However, when I route deep mortices I use multiple full length shallow passes. I don't even engage the plunge lock, which isn't a problem with standard bit, but could be a problem with a spiral bit which wants to pull itself into the cut. You just work the bit into the wood at a rate that doesn't result in chatter or burning. You soon work out how much to plunge on each pass.

    It's easy on the router, easy on the bit and easy on your arms. I also use this method on my slot mortiser.

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