Thread: Routing small pieces safely

For me I'd forget the router, just clean up on the linisher/inverted belt sander/hand sand. Just looks to small to be done safely. Probably not the answer you wanted, but you only get one set of fingers.

charleville
I have not tried this method so cannot vouch for its efficacy, it seems to me that if you make a suitable handle screwed to the template, you can do the routing in two separate steps, repositioning the handle through 180 degrees with the work still attached to the template.
The other end of the handle would need a piece the same thickness as the workpiece attached, to prevent the set-up "cocking-up" when downward pressure is applied
hope this is understandable
dont take any risks
witch1

I like to attach handles to all my templates, for just this reason.

For pieces the size in the picture and smaller, there's still a risk of your fingers being bitten in case of a kickback though. For those templates, I like to use a longer handle - with maybe 12-14" overhanging the side of the template - and some spacers under the opposite end to bring it up to the same height as the template/workpiece.

This lets you use both hands for control, while keeping them out of the firing line.

For small production runs, the extra handle (or handles) is top-notch.

For greater quantity, some sort of offset guide might be suitable, but working out the geometry would be awkward, with or without CAD. Google [leroy lettering guide] for an example of the concept.

Cheers,
Joe

Originally Posted by Charleville

I am in the process of making a toy which involves some smallish pieces (legs for a frog). When making toys, I usually like to cut a template out of MDF and then cut the workpiece closely to shape on the bandsaw and then using the MDF template to trim the workpiece to final shape using a straight cutting bit with bearing on a router table.

You all know what I am talking about - using double sided tape etc. See picture below ...


My problem with the current project is that the pieces are really too small to hold safely and securely and the end result thus far has been a double dose of kickbacks and ruined work pieces, even though I have been holding the piece very securely, albeit cautiously because of its small size.

My next step is to try screwing a big lump of wood to the template to act as a big handle that hopefully will allow me to hold the item more securely and safely around the spinning router bit on the router table.

Does anyone have any better ideas or experience, please?

You might try a variation of the Lee Valley small parts / mitre jig (Lee valley part No 04K01.01)

Ooer! That's so close to what I was trying to explain... and I didn't even know they could be bought!

It's good to know that all those hours spent drooling over the LV tool catalogue have paid off

I have in the past attached (double sided tape) a peice of 6mm lexan to the template.

The lexan allows firm pressure to be applied and good visibility while giving protection to the hands

cheers
gidgee1

These are fabulous responses. Thanks heaps!


I do have a bit of perspex on hand so I might make up something out of that and see how it goes. As Gidgee 1 suggests, being able to see all that is happening to the workpiece is very attractive when routing these small pieces.

If that does not work, I shall make up something like the Lee Valley tool out of a bit of square steel rod that I have here but I am a bit cautious of the outcome if I were to slip with it into the spinning router bit. I paid a lot of attention to a presentation by Roger Gifkins at the Brisbane wood show recently where he made the point that one should always prepare for when one does slip on the job as in his perspective, at some stage everyone has a slip.

Many thanks for your valuable advice on this topic. I shall report back with pictures when I have done the job.

.

I make small parts on a router table all the time and never get my fingers within 6" or more from the cutter. Like previously mentioned, make your template longer than the part with a handle on one end. If the parts geometry requires it you may have to make two templates... one for each end or right and left. If the part has holes, such as the leg in your picture I drill those in my rough stock and then use dowels on my template to align the part. Most importantly I always use a pattern bit with the bearing on the bottom (closest to the router collet) that puts the over sized template firmly on the table and the part on top where I can see it make contact with the cutter. This also helps if your pattern calls for climbing up the grain... you can see what your doing and adjust your feed direction eliminate tear out. I also don't rely on double stick tape alone to secure the part... I use a toggle clamp, double stick tape and the alignment dowels to keep even the smallest parts from flying off the router. Using this method you can reproduce parts as small as a postage stamp and never get close to the router at all.

Thanks JimK. Some great advice in what you have written.

Many thanks.

Folks;

This afternoon, I made up a quick and dirty jig following advice received in response to my question.

The jig uses an off-cut of 6 mm thick perspex on to which I have screwed a couple of bits of scrap wood with a big hole bored centrally in each to take a couple of bits of 25mm dowel as handles. It is a very rough job as I did not have a hole saw of the right diameter so the holes were oversized for the dowel - but no problem as I just filled the gap with epoxy and secured the dowels from the side with screws. Like I said, 'rough as'.

Anyway, this what it looks like after having just been used successfully...


Click for full size - Uploaded with plasq's Skitch

Because my straight router bits with bearings have their bearings at the end, I double-sided-taped the template to the underside of the perspex and the workpiece under that. This is contrary to one of the bits of advice that I was given - I hope that I am forgiven for that.

I got lazy at this stage in that I really should have leveled the jig by adding the same thickness of template and workpiece at each end of the perspex to ensure that the whole thing sat level. I shall do that when I do the other legs tomorrow morning but I wanted to give this a try before dark today so I cut corners so to speak. By doing so, I took the cutting a little slower than should be the case to avoid burn marks but that is OK at this stage.

Anyway, the bottom line is that the jig worked a treat and I have been able to cut one frogs leg safely without getting my fingers anywhere near the spinning router bit. Plus, through the perspex, I could see everything that was happening at the cutter. Plus the two stout handles gave me lots of strength and control to avoid kickback and damage to the workpiece.

There is one learning however, in that I did have the depth of the router bit set a little high which meant that the grub screw holding on the bearing gnawed its way into the perspex until I realised what was happening. The solution is to just lower the depth of cut and 'Bob's your uncle.'


Click for full size - Uploaded with plasq's Skitch

So tomorrow, I shall do the last three leg fittings for my toy frog. Many thanks for all of your very helpful advice, folks.

Using perspex was a great idea. I obtain a few offcuts from time to time at the Reverse Garbage shop in Brisbane but I know that these businesses exist in other cities as well. Mentioned for anyone who might search this topic and wonder where they can get some to do the same job.




.

Looks good. Anything that keeps your fingers out of harms way is a good solution.

Originally Posted by Charleville

I am in the process of making a toy which involves some smallish pieces (legs for a frog). When making toys, I usually like to cut a template out of MDF and then cut the workpiece closely to shape on the bandsaw and then using the MDF template to trim the workpiece to final shape using a straight cutting bit with bearing on a router table.

You all know what I am talking about - using double sided tape etc. See picture below ...


Click for full size - Uploaded with plasq's Skitch


My problem with the current project is that the pieces are really too small to hold safely and securely and the end result thus far has been a double dose of kickbacks and ruined work pieces, even though I have been holding the piece very securely, albeit cautiously because of its small size.

My next step is to try screwing a big lump of wood to the template to act as a big handle that hopefully will allow me to hold the item more securely and safely around the spinning router bit on the router table.

Does anyone have any better ideas or experience, please?

My available tools include the big router in the router table and a laminate trimmer. I have template guides for both the router that sits in the table and the laminate trimmer if anyone thinks that using template guides somehow might be a better option.


Many thanks in anticipation of all advice.


.

Sorry for the late entry

When i wish to produce such small items and I have done so before Instead of making a 'Male Template' then trimming to size make a 'Female template' and do not cut all the way through leaving 2mm for trimming. This will require the making of a template much larger than the final project. How much larger will depend on the template guide and cutter to be used