Thread: Ryobi plunge router? or something else, for a novice?

Originally Posted by GeoffP76

Gday all
I'm after some advice please.
I'm new to woodworking and haven't used a router before. I've been building a desk in my study that runs across the full length of two walls (total length 5.5m), and I'm using 130mm Marri t&g flooring for the benchtop. I've got some 85x10mm boards to use as a trim around the front edge and plan to use a router to round off the top and bottom front edges at 6mm radius after I cut off the tongue and groove. Probably a pretty basic router task but I'm really enjoying the woodwork I've been doing and so there will be plenty more projects to come after that.

I bought a Ryobi 1250w plunge router from Bunnings today but not sure whether I should return it (haven't opened it yet) and buy something else. it was only $140 and I didn't want to spend over $200 if possible.
The Ryobi is 1/4 and 1/2", variable speed and 3kg. I also went to another tool shop and looked at a Maktec that was 1650W but felt heavy at 5.5kg and wasn't variable speed. Would it be a better option, or should I have looked at something else? or will this Ryobi be fine?

I also bought a $70 set of 20 Ultra branded 1/2" router bits today while I was at the shop. Should I open and use them or return them and just buy individual (better quality) bits as I need them?

Geoff

Sounds like you're off to a pretty good start. Aside from buying second hand, the router you mentioned (although I've never used one of these) sounds like pretty good value. Having the 2 collets greatly expands your possibilities, especially with the variable speed facility. The ability to reduce the machine's speed is essential for safely using larger diameter cutters. A V/S machine will always be much more versatile than a fixed speed equivalent. Having said that, I feel that 1250 watts is at the absolute minimum extreme of power suitable for larger 1/2" bits. If you can afford it, a bigger 1/2" V/S machine with more grunt will be more versatile again. Say 1850-2000w. In some ways weight is an actual advantage when routing, as it often aids stability in more aggressive cuts.

The most important aspect in buying a router is in it's ergonomics. It must feel right, all controls (switch, speed dial, plunge lock lever) must fall readily and intuitively to hand WITHOUT HAVING TO LOOK FOR THEM. Some routers have excellent ergonomics, and some are woeful. What feels "right" for me won't necessarily be right for you, so specific recommendations on brands or models are in some ways irrelevant.

As for the cheap set of bits... well I'm not so sure. They are pretty remarkably priced, but their overall quality may be a bit dubious. You tend to get the level of quality (longevity & sharpness) that you pay for. I basically only use Carb-i-tool bits, and a few Craftmaster ones which are Aus & NZ made. I'm still using some that are 25 years and more old! Native hardwoods really deserve quality bits.

I've always adopted the "buy quality, but only what you need " approach to bits, but nevertheless have acquired a reasonable collection over the years. Yes, they were (are) expensive to buy this way, but only acquiring one, two or at most a handful each years tends to dull the pain of their expense.

I would suggest you have a reasonably good starter kit for your first router. If, after gaining experience, you find it wanting, then you can decide to go for something bigger, heavier and in some minor but nice ways, better.

I looked at the ERG1250RG router, is that the one?

I had a look at the downloadable manual, it would seem it’s pretty much got everything you need in a router. A variable power switch, guide/fence, plunge capability, soft start (really good feature that).

A plunge capacity of 55mm. Able to take 6.35mm and 12.7mm router bits with the supplied collet and shim.

An on/off trigger lock, I have seen bottom end routers without this feature, if you don’t have a lock on switch, you cannot use the router under a router bench you may build in the future.

The power is a bit low for heavy 12.7mm router bit work, but the speed you feed the work is the determining factor, as well as the sharpness of the router bit.

With regard to the router bit kit you purchased, I would be tempted to keep it and with this relatively cheap kit, find which bits you really use and which you don’t, then with the wisdom gained from usage and your experience, you can purchase better router bits to suit your work patterns and pocket as and when suitable.

Last week I rocked up to Carb-I-Tool which is about 4 kilometres from my place, it really is heaven to be able to walk in and purchase straight from the manufacturer. They have everything in their catalogue in stock (well every time I go in they do) and their staff are actually knowledgeable with regard to their product. To put prices into perspective, I paid a shade under $30.00 for a single 6.35mm two flute solid carbide straight bit.

http://envirocatalogue.com.au/Carbitool_Website_2012/Router_Bit/#/1/

Welcome to the forum.

Mick.

I have a very similar router ( just not that colour)and quite like it. My 20plus year old makita spends all its time attached to the router table so about 2 years back I needed a another for hand held work. Now I only use a router now and then but there are some jobs they are handy for. With that in mind I was not going to spend up big on one. The Ryobi looked like it covered the bases so I got it and it has proved to be fine for the odd times I need to rout something. May be another story for those who make nearly everything with a router however.
As said by others it will be a good enough machine to learn the basics with and the same with the budget set of bits. You can always buy better bits as and when needed.
Be sure to read up on the safety side before diving in if you have not used one before and then practice a few cuts on scrap wood to get the hang of things. Better still if you know someone that knows how to use one then ask for a startup lesson.
Regards
John

I have one of those routers and find that it is not that good.

Just a couple of points: you have to hold the button down on the handle all the time you are using, and this is quite uncomfortable
The base plate is not held level when locked, as much as .5 mm difference.
The locking system isn't good enough, it can and does come loose when using.
The spindle locking system looks and feels very fragile, and there is not other way to hold the spindle if it breaks.

Good points: It's smooth, powerful for it's size and relatively quiet as routers go.

Hope this helps,

I personally wouldn't buy another one.

Robert

Thanks for all the replies. much appreciated
I'll keep the router and see how it goes. Its relatively cheap so not a lot to lose. and using the cheap bit set to get a feel for which quality bits I might need seems like a good idea too. I've been looking at a few how-to videos on youtube. Time to start practising...

I bought a similar set of bits some years ago and have done quite a lot of work with them. These bits when sold individually aren't the cheapest around, probably 3 bits would be the same price as the whole set. Safe routing!

I think they are the perfect first router (one of them was mine), the features for the dollars were/are pretty unbeatable and only real problem I found was durability as after about a year of use I had killed the bearings in one (it was under the table with no real dust extraction so that was my fault). I learned a lot from using it and then figured out what I wanted in a replacement. The handle they come with is really good for under table use if you end up going that way. A bulk set of bits then replace bits as you wear them out is a good option I think.