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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    73

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    Correct, I didn't use an insert - just screwed the router to the melamine. I certainly considered an insert (after seeing all the other posts on this forum!) but decided to try without first. It's easy enough changing bits under the table with the router still attached.

    I can't remember the other advantages of an insert but (a) they were quite expensive and (b) you have to ensure they're level with the rest of the table top - and the simple solution avoids this problem.

    As I'm not a very frequent woodworker, I aslo didn't want to expend too much effort in the whole enterprise in case it was a dismal failure.

    My next improvement would be a more practical fence - currently I have either a solid melamine board (attached to a 90 x 90 piece of pine) for routing stuff away from the bit or a piece of 70 x 35 pine with hole in it for routing stuff close to the bit. Both are simply attached with clamps which is cumbersome when you want to adjust them!

    Tony

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Eastern Suburbs Melbourne
    Posts
    2,577

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    Tony2096, does your setup lose you much height. Originally, I wanted to rebate the router into the melamine but though I'd be losing too much depth.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    73

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    There is only one thickness of board bewteen the router and the surface (16mm) ie the second board I glued to the first has a circular cutout to clear the router (see my third photo). This still gives enough travel for the router bit to rise well above the surface and the double board arrangement prevented any sag.

    Tony

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    7,696

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiger View Post
    I wanted a small router table that I could use in a workmate and got a plan from the web. It involved using 3mm plastic of which I had lying around. So I got a bit of melamine around 18 mm thick and rebated it and put the thing together. Now I was skeptical about the 3mm thickness and guess what? I was right, it has a sag where the router is. Now when I did a search I saw stories of even metal sagging as well as bought ones. I'd like to know from those that have built a router table what materials they used that didn't sag and what thickness they used. I'd prefer to use whatever I have lying around first eg masonite but will consider something commercial if it gets me a nice flat surface.
    I don't know how small you want it, but I will explain a way of stopping sag and I hope it doesn't get too complicated in the telling as I haven't built it yet and can't draw to save my life. Make a cabinet with 19mm whatever you like, as the top doesn't have to be thick. Halfway down both cabinet sides attach two cleats the depth of the sides. Allowing for the router size place two more pices of 19mm whatever from the cleats at an angle up to the underside of the top to each side of the mounted router and secure them to the underside of the top thus bracing it and it should not sag, I don't see how it can. Be careful to allow enough room to access to collet, height adjustment etc. This should be doable with most routers I would think
    CHRIS

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