Setting up the GMC Fixed-based router in a table

**derekcohen** · 20th June 2004, 04:31 AM

Nothing particularly original here, but the graphical info may help those doing it for the first time.

Up till now I have used an Elu 177e plunge router (earlier version of the De Walt 625) in my router table. It is a fantastic router, powerful and balanced, but it is not ideal in a router table. As with all plunge routers (with the exception of the Triton), bit changing requires removal of the machine from the router table. With the purchase of the 2 hp ½” GMC fixed-base router, all $39 of it, I was hoping to find a cheap solution. Since the GMC was going to be a permanent set up, it would also free up the Elu for hand-held use.

Soon after unpacking the GMC I identified two problem areas. The first was that the depth of cut, while rated as 50mm, did not permit the bit to be changed above my Jessada router tabletop insert. I could make a new, thinner insert out of aluminium, but this was not the route I wanted to go down since I would then lose the clip-in rings of the Jessada. The second problem was that the motor section of the router could not be separated from the fixed-base, which would have been the alternative method of changing bits.

The aim was to solve these problems while still being above to return the router to its original state, should this later be desired.

There are a few very nice features on the GMC. It has in-built dust extraction. It has a coarse- and a fine setting height adjustment knobs. It has a lock-on switch. These are all extremely useful in a router table.

Modifications

(1) To fix the bit-changing situation, the first thing to do is remove the plastic plate under the router. This is about 5mm thick. Then unscrew the D-handle. Only remove the two screws closest to the motor. This frees the power cord. Then remove the screw in Fig 1. This permits the motor to turn in the base, and it can then be removed from the base itself. Remove the motor from the base. Just under the screw is a tiny metal rod. Remove it by tapping it out of the body. Now replace the motor and the original screw. Replace the D-handle. You will now have gained an extra 20mm depth of cut.

(2) I chose to attach the router with screws to the insert plate. Mine is a permanent set up but an alternative for quick removal is to use the Triton screw-down clips (which I used with the Elu). I enlarged the existing base plate holes for this purpose (the only actual permanent change here. I will tap for new screws at a later time, should I wish to use the router hand held). A tip for centering the router on an table insert is to use a close-fitting router bit, as seen in Fig 4.

(3) The underside of the tabletop had to be modified with a groove to allow for the D-handle. See Fig 2. My router table is built into my tablesaw extension.

(4) The coarse setting mechanism is quick and easy, but the fine setting screw is set low and needs to be extended beyond the router body. Extra height needs to be added for the length of long straight bits, which may be required to just “poke” above the tabletop. I added 50mm. Note that the new fine setting handle looks excessively long in the picture because the router is screwed as high as possible. The extra length must allow for when it is set low. For the handle I used screw rod and bolts (about $3 from Bunnings). The bolts are a tight fit when inserted into the existing mechanism, and make for a good connection. I used hot glue to join the new mechanism to the router as it would be easier to undo if later required. The rod was bent into an L-shape. I added a piece of aluminium rod at the top for comfort. All screws were reinforced with high strength Loctite. Note that you can only bend the steel with heat, otherwise the rod will break as you try to bend it. See Fig 3 and Fig 5.

The final set up is in Fig 7.

In practice everything works very smoothly. Bit changing is a dream. The whole process of height adjustment is so easy that I would not even contemplate a Router-Razer. The router, itself, is surprisingly quiet. I cannot comment on dust control as this is one feature I have not yet used.

I hope this info is of use to you.

Regards from Perth

Derek

**derekcohen** · 20th June 2004, 04:33 AM

Last couple of pics.

**bitingmidge** · 20th June 2004, 11:04 AM

Derek,

Thanks for fixing my problems in advance! (Gee I love this board!). Sadly I have to spread some round before I can give you a greenie, but it's coming!

I have my doubts about the efficiency of the dust extractor fitting, but it won't be too hard to stick a bigger outlet around the guard.

Out of curiosity, how do you hold the collet while you undo the lock nut?

As you noted they are very quiet (I don't have any experience with a newer "good" machine) and because they are light weight and soft-start are just sooo easy freehand. At this stage the old Ryobi "screamer" stays in the table where I can build a noise suppressant box around it!

Please keep the updates happening as you start using it!

regards,

P

**Driver** · 20th June 2004, 04:25 PM

Great work, Derek. I probably won't set mine up in the router table because I've got a Triton for that purpose but, in case I change my mind, I now know how to get there.

I tried mine out today and I was very impressed with the soft start and the low level of noise. Great deal at $39.00!

Col

**derekcohen** · 20th June 2004, 05:02 PM

Good moaning Col

PLEASE print the 'Allo 'Allo version!

Derek

**Bob Willson** · 20th June 2004, 07:05 PM

Excellent work Derek

I think that I may even see an extra modification for you to make. The yellow adjuster knob that at present is accessed from beneath may also (possibly) be able to be reversed in its holder and a small access hole drilled through the base and also the Jessada plate so that in effect you get a router raizer.
Part of the adjuster you made could be left permanently in the router whilst a slimmer poke-through extension could be your access through the top.

**Jack E** · 20th June 2004, 07:29 PM

Derek and Bob,

There is a way to make height adjustment possible from above the table and I have posted this in the router thread. Basically involves removing and inverting the yellow height adjuster which means you have to enlarge one hole and make the other smaller using a collett. You will the have to drill through the router base and your table.
If this isn't helpful I think my actual post about this is a little more detailed.

Jack.

**derekcohen** · 20th June 2004, 07:52 PM

Jack and Bob

Thanks for the suggestion about the adjuster. I did see the Jack's description in his earlier post. However, while is is a really clever idea, I felt that it is an unnecessary complication. The router moves very easily and there is no gain in moving the winder, just more work. In fact, a top-mounted winder requires storage when not in use.

There are two modifications I plan to make.
(1) I will reduce the length of the winder by about 50mm (it turned out longer than I anticipated).
(2) Paint the internal collet white so that it is more visable and easier to lock with the smaller spanner.

In answer to Bitingmidge's question, "how do you hold the collet while you undo the lock nut?", the topside is as per Fig. 4 - it just rests on the table top, the bottomside needs to be slid in and held (the hardest part is to see what you are doing - hence the mod with paint). I do have an idea to make this all much easier, and will report on it once I've tested it out.

Regards from Perth

Derek

**Wayne Davy** · 20th June 2004, 09:41 PM

Derek,

Great job (as usual). My new GMC is for handheld use as, like Driver, I have a Triton in my Table.

**PlanePig** · 20th June 2004, 09:54 PM

Derek I must also thank you in advance, My GMC has had a trial run handheld, but I have a triton jigsaw/ router attachment for the table. My problem is the triton setup is the older style model and I have never used it . The fence seems to have a bit missng out of the lead edge and the " book " is no help. Any clues would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks . :confused: :confused: Planepig.

**Caliban** · 20th June 2004, 10:11 PM

Derek
Thanks in advance, I managed to sneak one into the shed unnoticed, but haven't had a chance to play with it yet, way too busy building the new woodshed.

I will be putting mine into a table as soon as I build one. What are your feelings on mounting plates etc? Should I just mount it straight to the table top as per Roger Gifkins' plans? How good are router raiser type setups? Please watch for green square.

**Justin** · 20th June 2004, 10:15 PM

G'day Planepig,

If you mean that the lead fence is not flush with the trailing fence, then this is actually an adjustment that Triton have built in to their fences so that you can use them as an edge jointer. If you undo the securing knobs, you should be able to slide the lead fence sideways to the left, which will bring it flush with the trailing fence because it's on a kind of cam mount which brings it forwards or backwards if you slide it left or right respectively.

If it's not what you mean, leave a bit more info and I'll try and help you out from memory of the triton table I used to have. You might also try posting in the Triton forum.

Cheers,

Justin.

**PlanePig** · 20th June 2004, 10:29 PM

Thanks Justin , I just found a bag of "bits ", I think the missing piece is in the bag.I should be able to work it out from here.
Planepig

**PlanePig** · 20th June 2004, 10:44 PM

Thanks Justin , I just found a bag of "bits ", I think the missing piece is in the bag.I should be able to work it out from here.
Planepig

**derekcohen** · 21st June 2004, 01:13 AM

What are your feelings on mounting plates

Hovo

I think that the ultimate router table would be a one-piece (i.e. insert-less) table top. The only reason for an insert is to remove the router so as to change the bit. When you no longer need to change bits this way, then you no longer need an insert. The Triton plunge router is great in this regard. Fixed-base routers are an alternative since you can leave the base in the table and remove the motor unit to change the bit.

The aim is to build a one-piece table top that is rigid and non-flexing, yet still thin enough to maximise the depth of cut. The problem with MDF is that it flexes, and the deviation will lead to inaccurate cuts. A 6mm board does not sound promising. A sheet of aluminium may be the way to go, but this will also need to be machined so that you could add insert rings.

Regards from Perth

Derek

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