Shop built router table

**Auld Bassoon** · 2nd July 2005, 10:45 PM

After much grief, practice-wise and wallet-wise with a seriously horrible Carba-Tec MS-R table (I should've looked here first

), I decided to cobble-up my own.

Just a basic treated pine carcass with ply panelling, but spruced up with a Woodpeckers Engineered top (see http://www.woodpeckers.com.au/category24_1.htm) plus one of their phenolic inserts, plus some Incra T-Track Gold, a few hold-downs, stops & whatnot (also from WP). I've put my trusty Triton monster in it (works really well in a table with its micro-adjust and above-the-table bit-changing facility), and have built my own fence, with a solid section on T-tracks for fore-and-aft adjustment, a couple of sliding fences, also with T-Track inserted for stops, etc, and an above table plus below table vacuum (65mm for the former, 100mm for the latter, both into an overhead 100mm section attached to my DC).

I also decided to build a small wee box to hang on the side of the table to contain bits, tools, etc.

Not sure what possessed me to paint the bugger that green though

Works for me!

A couple of pics attached...

Cheers!
Steve B

**JDarvall** · 3rd July 2005, 10:16 AM

Looks good Steve..........I'm envious of its size.....mine pales in comparison......why muck about if you've got the room eh ..........

**routermaniac** · 3rd July 2005, 06:29 PM

nice table there, but the hardwood for the fence is likely to present you with accuracy issues in the future, would have been better off going for mdf.

well done on the design it looks very useable!

**Just George** · 3rd July 2005, 06:44 PM

I agree with maniac, MDF over time won't warp in any way unlike timber which will move with the changes in weather if not sealed. Your fence may not move or warp for years but then you may get lots of rain like we have had here in Brisbane lately(and on the Gold Coast too) and find that your infeed and outfeed fences are no longer lining up. I'd suggest drilling and counter sinking holes for screws and nuts rather than just drilling through the MDF as this will cause a lump around the MDF where the screw come out or goes in and will affect your fence allignment.

Woody

**scooter** · 3rd July 2005, 08:09 PM

Nice work Steve.

I agree with the others about the hardwood, but given the quality of the rest of your tabletop I'd skip the MDF as well and track down some UHMW plastic. I think WP has it?

Otherwise, MDF would be better but I'd be applying laminex to the front & rear of the fences for stability. You can get laminex pieces for cheap or nix from any kitchen or postforming place.

Originally Posted by Steve.Bisson@te

...
I also decided to build a small wee box to hang on the side of the table to contain bits, tools, etc.

Don't you reckon corrosion could be a problem

:eek:

.

Cheers..............Sean, extracting the urea

**Auld Bassoon** · 3rd July 2005, 08:10 PM

Originally Posted by Woodworker101

I agree with maniac, MDF over time won't warp in any way unlike timber which will move with the changes in weather if not sealed. Your fence may not move or warp for years but then you may get lots of rain like we have had here in Brisbane lately(and on the Gold Coast too) and find that your infeed and outfeed fences are no longer lining up. I'd suggest drilling and counter sinking holes for screws and nuts rather than just drilling through the MDF as this will cause a lump around the MDF where the screw come out or goes in and will affect your fence allignment.

Woody

Thanks for the feeback guys!

I do know about potential wood movement, especially with varying humidity levels, but I reckon as the the base fence and the infeed/outfeed fences are 19mm and 32mm respectively, they'll probably last until I've convinced my conscience/wallet that I *really* need an Incra fence

Cheers!
Steve B

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