Thread: Sticking Router Collet

Hi
I had a simular thing happen with a router, it turned out to be rust in the collet.
Cheers, Allan

Hi. check that the collett is rust free as (Alan) has stated also check that the router bit you initially used did not have a burr on it causing scoring on the collett.
Over tightening is a common cause of burring of the bit shafts which will create problems with colletts down the track.
Have a look at the collett itself to ensure that it has been machined true and no ovalisation is apparent
I have a makita similar to yours and they can be notorious for sticking router bits in the collett so it often requires a light tap on the collett nut after loosening the nut to free up the bit but you have to be aware of the problems associated with this with run-out of the shaft if you're too heavy handed.

Just some points.
Cheers

To ensure that it is clean, use some fine wet and dry (400~ish) wrapped around something small enough to fit in the hole and WD-40.

Are the bits from one manufacturer, or doesn't it matter?

Hi,

I have had the same problem ,since day one, with a no name triming router which is said to be a copy of the Makita brand.
When I read the 2 page instruction manual it said not to tighten the nut down over the collett if there was no router bit inserted in the collett.
I had already tightened the collett down with hand pressure only before I read the manual.
I think that maybe ,because there was no router bit inserted, that the size of the collett was made smaller and is now just under 1/4 inch in dia.

Thats is my explanation,for what it is worth.
Regards Terry.

Hi all!
Am new at this kind of thing but here goes. A slightly stuck cullet to me is just the nature of the beast. I too have a new Makita router and the collet sticks! As a person that turns my hand to almost any task at hand i have seen this in many other situations. My air Die Grinder with 1/4" collet sticks frequently and just a small tap on the side releases the Burr without any trouble. Same deal on the Milling Mach, Various sizes of collets and some or most will stick, but a little tap and fixed. Have a friend who is a Machinest buy trade and have seen him do this often. Have noticed that if you get a little carried away tightening the lock nut then a very stuck collet (or cutter) will follow and will require a slightly larger tap than normal to free such. I think that they stick due to the fact that there is a taper between the collet itselt and the lock nut, and we all should know how well a taper can lock together on matching parts.
So there you go nothing to worry about or to be dissapointed about, it's just the way they are.(sorry for the lenghty reply)
MICK C.

Originally posted by silentC
I've got a 3612 Makita plunge router, about 4 years old. The bits always get stuck in the collet and I have to use a pair of multigrips to get them out. Has anyone got any ideas on a) why this is happening and b) what I can do about it? It's been like this from day one. S'pose I should have taken it back but it was a father's day present and it's too late now anyway.

With the Makita 3612, it is a two stage operation to free the bit. You loosen the collet nut then keep turning the collet nut further until it tightens again, then use the spanner to loosen more. This is a design feature to release the bit. You then just lift the bit out with no trouble.

Sprog,

Are you saying that the second stage of the un-tightening expands the collet? I'm pretty sure that wasn't in the manual, but then I probably didn't read it that closely. I'll have a go at it tomorrow, but I'm dubious about it because once it's loose (like, 1/4 of a turn from tight) I can unscrew the collet nut all the way off the shaft without using the spanner. I had a look at the Makita web site and the pic looks slightly different to mine, so maybe I've got an old one?

Thanks for the tip though.

ozwinner, John et al,

Thanks for the replies. I'd say if it's not down to a design 'feature' (those in the computer biz will understand the quotes) it's probably machining. I've had a go at the collet and the bit with wet 'n' dry and it's smooth as a baby's bum. It's all bits, including the reducing sleeve that I use for 1/4" bits that get stuck, although the 1/2" bits are the worst.

Cheers. Tomorrow is another day. The wife is on the golf course and I can play!

Hi SilentC,

I don't have a Makita but my router has the two-stage release process that Sprog described. It's quite an obvious effect; I noticed it without realising it was intentional until Sprog just pointed it out! It's obviously a design that works, because I've never had a bit get stuck.

If you're able to unwind the nut all the way with the collet remaining stuck, then it's not a question of your technique being wrong. Guess that means something's not right with the collet itself.

Michael.

Originally posted by silentC
Sprog,

Are you saying that the second stage of the un-tightening expands the collet? I'm pretty sure that wasn't in the manual, but then I probably didn't read it that closely. I'll have a go at it tomorrow, but I'm dubious about it because once it's loose (like, 1/4 of a turn from tight) I can unscrew the collet nut all the way off the shaft without using the spanner. I had a look at the Makita web site and the pic looks slightly different to mine, so maybe I've got an old one?

Thanks for the tip though.

ozwinner, John et al,

That is exactly right. The collet cone should be captive in the collet nut so un-screwing the nut pulls the collet cone free and releases the bit.
If you remove your collet nut the collet cone should come with it, if not then this is probably your problem. Contact Makita and obtain a new nut and collet cone.
Once the nut and collet cone are removed from the router the collet cone can be easily removed from the nut.
My 3612 is prior to the electric brake but I am sure the nut and collet cone are the same for all 3612 models.

Just nipped up to my workshop and removed the nut and collet from my 3612

The groove at the top of the collet cone mates with a corresponding lip in the nut. This is how the bit is released when the nut is un-screwed past the second stage.

Aha. Mine looks identical to that but there is no matching lip inside the nut, so evidently that's where the problem lies. I'll give Makita a ring. Thanks mate!

hi all ,
my 2 cents worth, i would put it more down to the cutter shafts , especially if you are using cheap brands! the machining of these are questionable , i picked up my first (& last set of these) early on & 1 of the shanks had rust all over it! took it back and got a replacement.
that coating they put over the carbide ,why dont manufacturers put it all over the whole thing jeez it wouldnt increase costs that much!
also the shanks might not be the size they say they are, or they might not be truely round!
i think makita have got a better reputation than some of the other manufacturers.
seeyasoon mik.

Originally posted by silentC
Aha. Mine looks identical to that but there is no matching lip inside the nut, so evidently that's where the problem lies. I'll give Makita a ring. Thanks mate!

You might want to grab the parts list if you haven't already )

http://www.makita.com/Tools_Item_View.asp?ID=186

Thanks Sprog,

My 3612 is exactly as silent C describes. Its been a bugger for years since new... Put me off using the thing. I've changed bits from Carbi-tool / CMT and other cheaper brands, ALL having them "stick".

I'll visit a service outlet for new collets / screw? Anyhow thanks for the fix.

Zig