Thread: Suggestions for a router

Hey mate!
If your after a router for the use in a table you can't go past the triton. The fact that you can adjust the height of the router with a turn of knob, or with the above table winder (included in my 2400w model) makes it very handy! Not to mention you can change bits from above the table.

Andy

I bought the Triton 1400W router (MOF001), but mainly because I wanted a combination of table and handheld use. I also bought the winder handle for above table height adjustment, and the router is nicely balanced for handheld use.

If you're after a router primarily for table use, then I'd suggest the bigger 2400W Triton (which now apparently comes with the height winder handle). Its a cumbersome beast for handheld use, but the extra grunt comes in handy when table mounted.

My 1400W Triton is fine in the table for light/regular work, but it does bog down a bit with longer edge trimming and large panel raising bits.

Originally Posted by Krittgers

I am looking for a router to be used primarily for router table use.

I've got both routers, Kelly. The key word in your question is "primarily." The answer depends on what you'll be doing with it when you use it hand-held. If it's the occasional template work, or fitting door locks, etc. you'll be better off with the larger model, the TRA100 (sometimes sold as the TRB100), with its 3¼HP. Used hand-held with the baseplate extension it's also fine for in-situ edge profiling, etc.

The use of the TRA/B001 on, for example, the Leigh D4 Dovetail Jig was originally a little problematic, due to the weight of the router. This problem is, however, now totally eliminated with the use of Leigh's VRS router support/dust extractor accessory.

Another variable is what sort of table use you require. As has already been said, the MOF001 (2¼HP) can struggle a little with the larger bits, especially panel-raisers, but if they're not in your future you may well be OK with the smaller model. For me, power wins every time, but that said, I've cut many a kitchen counter top with the MOF001 too. I just take more, smaller, passes.

I did reviews of both a while back: TRA001 or MOF001. Maybe they'll help a little.

Ray

Hi Kelly,

It's hard to go past the Triton TRA100 for in table use. I've got a pair of Festool OF2000's and still prefer the Triton in the table.
One thing to watch for is that the Speed Controller board, which sits just under the top of the router can die, (mine did after about 3 years) but is easily replaced by unclipping and re-clipping two connectors. The cost here for a replacement is about AUD$80.00.

Regards,

Rob

It would be almost entirely for the router table. Since I haven't heard any negatives, I think I will move on one. Great value in my opinion.

I couldn't find a manual. When you use it with the router table and you move it up or down, do you lock it in place or is that unnecessary?

Thanks

KR

I would go the TRA001 for under table mounting. I have one and am very happy with it. I also have the smaller MOF001 for handheld use. I understand that is the intention of the two models. If I was only to choose one, I would go with the bigger model.

Originally Posted by Krittgers

It would be almost entirely for the router table. Since I haven't heard any negatives, I think I will move on one. Great value in my opinion.

I couldn't find a manual. When you use it with the router table and you move it up or down, do you lock it in place or is that unnecessary?

Before you use it in the table, remove the plunge spring and leave the spring cap off. When setting height, use the coarse adjustment (the right-hand winding handle) to raise the bit just above the desired height, then lower the bit with the fine adjuster. This is much kinder to the mechanism. Lock in place with the thumb-operated plunge lock for security.

I've put up a manual for you to download here - open it and save a local copy on your computer. HTH

Ray

Ray, do you suggest leaving the spring cap off as it may fill with dust and shavings causing problems down the track and without it attached the debris will simply fall through?

Thanks for the good responses.

Kelly

Originally Posted by metester

Ray, do you suggest leaving the spring cap off as it may fill with dust and shavings causing problems down the track and without it attached the debris will simply fall through?

Exactly so. It's unlikely that shavings will find their way into the mechanism, the real problem is fine dust, especially MDF dust, which can become compacted (due to vibration) and sit inside the spring cap. Eventually, this builds up enough to prevent a full raise (or plunge) and the solidity of the compacted dust has to be seen to be believed.

Leaving the cap off is not structurally important, the locking screw will not vibrate out and problems as detailed above are totally eliminated.

Ray

Originally Posted by rayintheuk

I did reviews of both a while back: TRA001 or MOF001. Maybe they'll help a little.

Ray[

Very good reviews. Thanks Ray. I assume I could buy parts in the USA since this is sold by Woodcraft.

Thanks

KR

I am not sure if the Triton is such a good purchase under the conditions you specify. It is a "jack of all trades" - table and hand use - and you are essentially just wanting a router for the table.

Does it matter much which router if ..

1. it has at least 2 hp
2. cutters can be changed from above with the use of a lift.
3. soft start

A dedicated router table is essentially a small shaper, but has the advantage of swapping cutters with the hand-held routers. So you are just looking for a reliable motor (with variable speed) and the above features.

My router table uses a dedicated GMC that, believe it or not, does stirling service. It doesn't even need a lift to change blades above the table (as I modified it slightly). This cost me $39 about 5 or 6 years ago. Importantly, it is a fixed base router - no springs to worry about. This is the type of router that is best for a router table.

I still have a couple of Elus, a large 177e and a medium 97e, plus a small Makita, and these were pricy machines. What I am getting to is that the Triton is expensive for what you ask - if cost is a factor. Of course I would not stand in the way of anyone determined to spend money on what they consider to be the best available (not sure if Triton is anymore).

Regards from Perth

Derek

For table use it's a waste buying a plunge router.

And the Tritons have a history of problems. Just do a search on this forum.

In the US you have fixed base routers like the Porter Cable and others that are more reliable and better for your uses.

Kelly, since you said 'primarily' for table use I'm going to assume freehand use as well. In that instance I would agree with LGS and Ray that the Triton is a good and flexible option; certainly nothing wrong with it if you educate yourself on pulling the spring as Ray advises.

My Tritons are preferred for the table. In the table my Makita 3601B is a pain to adjust and the Bosch 1613evs handle fills with dust, making the switch temperamental.