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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Townsville, Nth Qld
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    4,236

    Default testing 2nd hand routers

    I am looking to buy a 2nd hand Hitachi 1600W plunge router. How do I tell if it it any good or not?

    I would appreciate all suggestions and ideas

    regards,
    Jill

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Sydney
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    48
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    256

    Default

    Hi Jill,

    General condition - if it looks like it has been well used then probably forget it unless you know the owner. I would turn it on and listen - does the motor sound smooth? If not then could just be worn brushes or something more serious. Look for evidence of play in any of the mechanisms. Rust on any sliding surface (particularly the plunge action) would indicate it has not been looked after.

    Also check out the parts or service availability for that router in your area.

    Good luck,

    Tom

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Alexandra Vic
    Age
    69
    Posts
    2,810

    Default

    Used to/familiar with routers in general, but not the specific one mentioned, but some of the things that I would be checking carefully are:

    Complete accessory kit, collets, clamp nut, spanner set, fence and guide system etc, plus instruction manuals, box and would most likely have come with a spare set of motor brushes in a plastic bag. Can be expensive/difficult to replace these items, but if everything is together and in box, there is a fair chance that the unit has been looked after. Missing brushes suggests that either they are lost (careless) or already used, in which case machine may have done a lot of work. My 30yo Mak 3600 has a couple of hundred hours on it, and has taken at most 1.5mm of the brushes, so brushes should be good for maybe 800-1000 hrs per set depending on load applied.

    If the machine has a shaft lock system for changing bits, check that it grips properly without any shaft freeddom when engaged. Freedom suggests that the mechanism has had a lot of use or abuse, and will continue to deteriorate.

    Check the base for flatness by placing the edge of a steel rule accross it and looking for gaps between the base and edge. Check 6-10 times at different points around the base (i.e 12o'clock to 6o'clock, 1 to 7, 2-8 etc). Any significant variations that can't be explained by screw head recesses etc, would tend to suggest that the unit has fallen, been dropped etc, and may result in cuts not being square to work surface.

    Mount a known good bit into the machine (preferably one with a guide bearing, and set up so that you can clamp the steel rule very close to the bearing or bit (with packing) and rotate the router shaft slowly by hand while observing the gap. The gap should not change at all as the shaft rotates, if it does, either the shaft is bent or the collet and clamp have been strained. A dial gauge and base could be used for this test if you can access one, and would be more accurate.

    Check whether the power supply where you are testing is protected by a safety switch, and get a portable one if its isn't, (borrow or buy). Give the unit a run with the safety switch close at hand, if it does not trip out, there is an extremely good chance that the unit does not have electrical problems that might endanger the operator. Walk away if it trips the safety switch.

    Start the unit up,then bring to a complete stop several times. If the unit starts properly each time, motor windings should be OK. If any start attempts fail, the unit has a faulty armiture winding and will neeed expensive repairs before long.

    With the bit mounted, try some test cuts. Unit should not wobble on base, vibrate excessively, slow significantly, or have a significant ring of sparks near the brushes in the motor (try to view through rthe cooling vents while someone is working machine).

    Finally, if the unit looks abused or neglected, it probably is.

    If the unit passes these tests, it should give you a reasonable working life without problems. Good luck

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Lambton, Newcastle, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    4,957

    Default

    If its like the Hitachi power tools I have it will last a life time and then sum. I have had a Hitachi 2 speed hama drill (tradesmans use) since 1988ish and still cant kill it. Secular saw very similar, have cut lots of steel, concrete and wood. Indestructable.
    Instagram: mark_aylward
    www.solidwoodfurniture.com.au


    A good edge takes a little sweat!!

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Bayside Melbourne
    Posts
    745

    Default Check out the plunge mechanism

    All, routers have quirks or areas that aren't as good as others, Hitachi routers generally are let down by their plunge mechanism. It should not only slide freely, but also have minimal slop in the guides. Accuracy comes from how 'repeatable' or constant the dimension between the shaft and the edge of the base plate is.

    Also all of the above mentioned points should be checked out.

    I hope that this helps?

    Regards

    Grahame

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    526

    Default

    Some good responses in here so far but IMHO, one important test is missing: Bearings.

    A router is a simple tool because there is no drive train (gearbox). The only thing that fails in machines of reasonable quality is the bearings. There are two. A small one atop the commutator and one larger after the fan in the base. Turn the shaft with your fingers. It should move relatively freely. There is a bit of friction coming from the brushes but it should rotate a bit if given a flick.

    Turn it on and let it run for around 20 seconds. High reving machines shouldn't run for any length of time without a load but 20 seconds is no problem. Feel the housing at the top and the base to check for heat. It should be barely noticable after only 20 seconds. If it feels warm it would indicate higher than desireable bearing friction.

    Take a look through the air intakes when it's running and make sure the brushes aren't throwing too much spark. I also advise having a smell through the air intake after having given it a little dance. Be very wary of any machines emmitting a burnt smell.

    Changing out bearings is no problem if you have a bit of tool savvy. If however, the top bearing has failed and the machine used too long, the heat can melt the holder and then you can chuck the housing in many machines. Lathing up commutators also fixes many sparking brush problems as does a new field which are a lot cheaper than arbours.

    Good luck.

    Damien
    Is it wrong to be in love with a sawbench?

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Townsville, Nth Qld
    Posts
    4,236

    Default

    Many thanks to all you experts - what an amazing collection of wisdom and technical knowledge you guys have.

    This would have to be one of the most definitive and complete answers on what to look for in 2nd hand routers - very impressive indeed

    kind regards to all,

    Jill

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    On the Downs, Darling SEQld
    Posts
    1,167

    Default

    G'Day JillB,

    If you get to Test it my question is
    "Does it feel RIGHT! good and Correct?"
    To do this you will have to try a couple, hopefully 3 or more.

    Also where damianhazo, was going.
    Does it Vibrate, a bit, to much.....what ever.


    Trust the gut feeling.

    NO!!!
    I don't mean to lean on it while it is running
    Navvi

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