Thread: Track Bits??

Stuart I only used the single track bit for the chipboard track. I used a 1/4" for all the other bits.

Really makes you wonder why 'they' made the single track bit such a ridiculous size.

I even considered filing it down a bit, but there isn't enough cutter to get it down to size.

I would have preferred a good single than the double.

When I made the "T" pieces I only used a 1/4" bit and drill press. I didn't use the track bits, and think taht it might be easier that way.

Just a quick update on the "T" pieces I made. This time I made 3 in a row, from 140.12 mm pine.

It took no time at all. I made a base for the router (2+3) with pivot holes for the various radii. With the smaller router I was able to cut the inside curve of the track.

I cut each rail and the inside edge, graually increasing the depth until I went all the way through (photo 4). I then cut off each "T" piece on the SCMS (photo 5)and then ripped the bottom of the T on the table saw. Everything went well except, I didn't notice when routing the straight rails the the bit mvoed up in the router table and cut the grooves too deep.

I will try and adapt this for making the normal switch track when I have time. Maybe by cross cutting up the centre of the T (single T in photo 5). THe only thing will be having rails on both sides as they need to be reversable.

Should be able to use this for curves as well.

I have learnt that near enough is good enough, as even genuine thomas track has a fair amount of "give'

Finally got around to having a go with these bits.

The straight track with McJing's bits is a doddle. The end connectors are a problem with the timber I have, but I'm having no problem using the drill press for the female ends. Experimenting with the male ends, it's a pity that one mistake here can ruin the whole piece.

Attachment 67173 Attachment 67172 Attachment 67174

As others have said the single trackbit from the McJing set is crazy different from the double cutter and any other track. I've sent details of what it should be to Carb-I-Tool for a price, and a track sample is about to be in the mail to them. Will let you all know how it goes.

woodbe.

I have been reading this topic with great interest as I am about to start making some track for my grandson. I have a couple of questions and would appreciate some feedback.

First of all it would seem to me that a dovetail type connection would be easier to manufacture, as for connecting to existing track what about making up a number of small dovetail to round joining pieces of male to male, male to female and female to female. That way only a limited number will be required. Secondly has anyone used a dado blade to cut the grooves on straight track (also would a dado blade be easier to use on a male round connector, then sand the edges). Finally has anyone used MDF to make the track from?

Sorry we seem to have missed your question Stubchain. If you are still checking this thread hope these answers are not too late:

Dovetail is about as hard, as you have to get a precise height of the bit for a good joint (one that isn't too tight for the child to make/break, or too loose that too large a gap opens between tracks).

Connecting to existing track - yeah- that's what I'd do too to get to use the 2 different track formats. Ideally though, if there is already some of one style, match that style. I've made the dovetail version before for a young friend - gave him 20m or so of extra track for his existing plastic circuit.

Haven't tried a dado - it'd be alright for straight sections only obviously. It needs to be a smooth bottom to the track. I'd stick with the router through - good finish, safer (in my opinion), and even if you don't have a track bit, a straight cutter with the required width would do as well as, if not better, than a dado blade.

MDF - not tried, but don't see why it'd be an issue. So long as the young person was beyond track chewing stage that is!!!

I made a couple of bits out of MDF a few years ago and found that the male connector started to delaminate and then eventually broke off. I have to say it did last at least 12 months but I would not use it again.

Jon

Interesting observation Jon - thanks for the feedback. Sounds like your track got a good workout, so that is always satisfying!

If you made the male connector with the ball method

that would avoid that problem. Personally I am not a fan of the look of the ball method, but it is very Bauhaus!

I posted on another part of the forum but it seems to have gone missing for some reason.

I made a heap of track from some structural pine with a dado cutter. They came out really well. I used the dado cutter to make some of the male connector then the bandsaw to finish. The female connector was very easy.

Got to knock up some points and crossover pieces next.

:c:c