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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    Steve,
    You will be able to get long router base screws in WA. After all, they are standard machine screws.
    Go to any bolt supply place, you could even try the Green Shed ...
    I expect that you will need to buy many more than 4 -- most bolt supply places have minimum order quantities, meaning you will likely need to buy many more than the four you actually need.


    I note you initially specified that your DIY option was for occasional use, so I don't understand the desire to fit a router lift. I used the depth adjustment on my trim router when I bolted in under the piece of ply.
    A router lift implies a much more permanent setup.
    Sorry, Ian, I was refering to the Complete table kit. My bad.

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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Treecycle View Post
    Just wondering if there is a soft pad under that grubscrew in the router clamping ring that would allow you to lightly tighten the grubscrew onto the thread once you have the height you want. Even if it didn't come with a pad, providing there is enough depth in the thread you could make your own out of brass or nylon. Only needs to be a couple of mm thick so the grubscrew doesn't bear down on the winder thread.
    It may be that the grubscrew in there is only holding in the threaded insert so can't be done there but might be able to do it under the grubscrew on the head section as that one possibly goes in to a groove to prevent it moving up and down.
    Yes, I wondering that as well. I may even be able to drill and tap it out to a larger size to get more purchase. A soft pad underneath would work fine.

    A few ideas bouncing around, but all depend on seeing them up close.
    Thats why I was hoping someone here have seen one or more of these, in the flesh...oh well. The ideas are good.

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sterob View Post
    I was thinking of extending the locking mechanism to the side of the table, so its easily accessable, but I cannott be sure that would work unless I buy one and eyeball it....A bit of a gamble.
    Allen screw with long series Allen key epoxied or welded into it might reach. If not, weld an extension to the Allen key or get a single steel rod and grind or file down one end to fit the Allen screw and epoxy or weld it into the screw. You'd probably need to bend the hand end so you can turn it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sterob View Post
    Yes, might be worth a try. The one I saw was only $50.....lol
    Tell him he's dreaming. There's one near me on Facebook Marketplace for $40, including Ozito corded router, that's near new. That package is close to $200 new. Notice I didn't say worth $200 new.

    I confess to having an Ozito corded router, bought for less than the cost of fuel for a four hour return trip to home base when I needed one in a hurry. Works fine, except the plunge lock stripped pretty soon but that was an easy fix with a thread insert and, believe it or not, an Allen screw with an Allen key epoxied into it. It actually has an advantage over most other plunge routers as the narrow body and more or less standard size base allows better visibility of the work. It's not my preferred tool and I wouldn't advise anyone to buy one, but it doesn't rout things any worse than my better quality routers.

  5. #19
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    These two seem to the picks of the bunch..


    I have asked the sellers if the 2 lifts they are selling have a locking function on them on not. Will see if they get back to me and acually answer the question....

    Screenshot 2023-09-25 211553.jpg Screenshot 2023-09-26 213123.jpg

  6. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by 419 View Post
    Allen screw with long series Allen key epoxied or welded into it might reach. If not, weld an extension to the Allen key or get a single steel rod and grind or file down one end to fit the Allen screw and epoxy or weld it into the screw. You'd probably need to bend the hand end so you can turn it.
    My thoughts as well.


    Quote Originally Posted by 419 View Post
    Tell him he's dreaming. There's one near me on Facebook Marketplace for $40, including Ozito corded router, that's near new. That package is close to $200 new. Notice I didn't say worth $200 new.

    LOL..I guess it might be worth getting one cheap and stripping a couple of parts off it ( NVR switch for eg ) and throwing the rest?

    A NVR Switch is $130 by itself.

    I will keep an eye out.

  7. #21
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    I just saw this for sale relatively close to me. The guys router won't fit .Its half the cost of new.($200) I can make mine fit...lol
    I would have to make an adapter ring so my trimmer would fit, but I might end up with a better result?

    Screenshot 2023-09-27 165757.jpg

  8. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sterob View Post
    I just saw this for sale relatively close to me. The guys router won't fit .Its half the cost of new.($200) I can make mine fit...lol
    I would have to make an adapter ring so my trimmer would fit, but I might end up with a better result?

    Screenshot 2023-09-27 165757.jpg
    Does it lock? That's the part that's still not clear to me on a lot of these inserts and router lifts.

    I'm interested in this problem as I'm trying to work out a better lift for my router tables than scissor car jack and mini airbag lifts. Although they work perfectly in raising and lowering the table there's no lock on them and I suspect they aren't super precise as holding devices, which means I have to use the router plunge lock and I'm not that confident that with extended use they're super precise on one leg of the router when it's upside down and the springs, vibration and gravity are working against holding it in place, plus the plunge lock isn't easy to access when it's under the table. Yes, the springs can be removed but that doesn't overcome gravity and vibration loosening the router. Spring removal pretty much dedicates the router to a table which mightn't be that convenient if you want to remove it and use it normally without excessive time and effort replacing the springs.

    I was looking tonight at the high end locking router lifts like this one from Carbatec for $759 to try to find out how they lock.

    Carbatec router lift.JPG
    Carbatec Lift N Lock Router Lift | Carbatec

    It looks like pretty much an inverted version of a thicknesser / planer lifting system. Not sure how it locks, but now it's occurred to me that I don't know how my thicknesser locks on the same system with just a removeable handle to control everything. Anyway, apart from the huge expense this seems to be an unduly complicated solution to a problem which should be capable of a simple solution with the grubscrew / Allen key ideas previously discussed or a locknut on the screwshaft.

    The latter would be ideal recessed on the table top but I can't see how that could work as it would have to be as long as the travel of the router which would mean that it wouldn't allow the router to rise or would protrude above the table as the router rose. If it was put under the router it could be made to work well. Given that routers are generally not far off one edge of a table, a nut with two to four arms extending outside the table could do the job, as long as the screwshaft extended below the router to avoid fouling the router when turning. So, assuming there's room for this extended screwshaft, then the arms are well below the table top and on the back of it and not readily accessible, so it's not all that great an idea.

    I think the best solution has to be a handle above the table top with a locking mechanism that's also controlled above the table top. Which would be consistent with the type of router lifts on the market. DER!

    Sorry for the stream of unconsciousness rambling.

  9. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sterob View Post
    These two seem to the picks of the bunch..


    I have asked the sellers if the 2 lifts they are selling have a locking function on them on not. Will see if they get back to me and acually answer the question....

    Screenshot 2023-09-25 211553.jpg Screenshot 2023-09-26 213123.jpg
    I'm looking forward to their answers, if you get them.

  10. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sterob View Post
    LOL..I guess it might be worth getting one cheap and stripping a couple of parts off it ( NVR switch for eg ) and throwing the rest?

    A NVR Switch is $130 by itself.

    I will keep an eye out.
    Don't know if mine has an NVR switch as I haven't been in a situation where it applied, but mine's maybe ten years old (don't remember when I bought it) so newer models might have them. Certainly worth having. Some of my cordless tools, notably a grinder, have them and they've avoided potential injury when a battery has died and been replaced with the switch still on but without the tool automatically restarting.

    The fence and cast alloy table on my Aldi version of the Bunnings table are okay, but I've seen reviews of what seem to be the same item under different brand names which complain about woeful faults in both to the extent that they're unusable. I'm using mine only for short and shallow chamfers which is a basic operation with no stress on anything which needs only a pretty accurate flat table and square and straight fence, not the precision for operations I haven't tried on it and won't use it for.

    Two Kreg featherboards would cost close to the new Bunnings price of the table which gives you three, admittedly smaller and probably lesser quality but adequate for the size of the table, featherboards.

    If you really got serious about buying one of these tables I think you're much better buying one new for about $90 from Bunnings so you can take it back if it's a dud rather than buying a second hand one for $50 that someone is offloading because it's a dud.

  11. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sterob View Post
    I just saw this for sale relatively close to me. The guys router won't fit .Its half the cost of new.($200) I can make mine fit...lol
    I would have to make an adapter ring so my trimmer would fit, but I might end up with a better result?

    Screenshot 2023-09-27 165757.jpg
    Providing it slides smoothly along the guide bars and it doesn't have any slop in there it should work fine for your occasional use. Some dry lube on the bars should take care of that. It looks like it has a lock beside the winder so that should cover one of your concerns. The only difference between this one and a more expensive chain drive unit is you have only got the one adjusting screw rather than 4 doing the work and keeping the lift level at all times and no chance of jamming.

  12. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by 419 View Post
    I'm looking forward to their answers, if you get them.

    I got an answer from the supplier of the red one...No lock. ( as expected )

  13. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Treecycle View Post
    Providing it slides smoothly along the guide bars and it doesn't have any slop in there it should work fine for your occasional use. Some dry lube on the bars should take care of that. It looks like it has a lock beside the winder so that should cover one of your concerns. The only difference between this one and a more expensive chain drive unit is you have only got the one adjusting screw rather than 4 doing the work and keeping the lift level at all times and no chance of jamming.

    I've decided to buy this one. I suspect that others do not want to mess around making adapters fo their routers to fit, or they just won't fit.

    I forgot to ask about the lock, but I think you are right. It looks like it has one. I was all set on fitting one to the ebay offerings, so it's not a big deal if I have to fit one to this.
    The PO says its nicer than the Kreg he bought to replace it...we willl see if thats true or not soon....lol

    Yes, all the 'cheapies' have the one adjusting screw, so I assume it must be 'ok' of sorts....

  14. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by 419 View Post
    Don't know if mine has an NVR switch as I haven't been in a situation where it applied, but mine's maybe ten years old (don't remember when I bought it) so newer models might have them. Certainly worth having. Some of my cordless tools, notably a grinder, have them and they've avoided potential injury when a battery has died and been replaced with the switch still on but without the tool automatically restarting.

    The fence and cast alloy table on my Aldi version of the Bunnings table are okay, but I've seen reviews of what seem to be the same item under different brand names which complain about woeful faults in both to the extent that they're unusable. I'm using mine only for short and shallow chamfers which is a basic operation with no stress on anything which needs only a pretty accurate flat table and square and straight fence, not the precision for operations I haven't tried on it and won't use it for.

    Two Kreg featherboards would cost close to the new Bunnings price of the table which gives you three, admittedly smaller and probably lesser quality but adequate for the size of the table, featherboards.

    If you really got serious about buying one of these tables I think you're much better buying one new for about $90 from Bunnings so you can take it back if it's a dud rather than buying a second hand one for $50 that someone is offloading because it's a dud.

    I found a cheaper on ebay, so will see how robust it is. If no good I can get a Carbatec model.

  15. #29
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    This review seems promising:

    Screenshot 2023-09-28 191914.jpg

  16. #30
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    The sellers son dropped the Lift off today. That was nice of him.

    To my untrained eye, it looks pretty good. Its the 'standard ' plate size, 3/8" thick.
    It moves nice and smoothly and the lock is effective.

    It seems to be a mix of metric and imperial measurements....weird. Metric allen keys and imperial height adjust scale.

    Its probably streets ahead of the the ebay offerings AND it has a lock...lol.

    I'll make a reducing collar on my cnc and it will be ready to go.
    The lift is designed for 3.5" routers ( 89mm?) and my Trimmer is 65 mm diameter so the collar is not huge.
    Steve

    Old School (1).jpg Old School (2).jpg Old School (3).jpg

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