Thread: Trimming Melamine Glue on Edge Tape on a Table Router with a Flush Trimming Bit

yes it can be done, I have not.

There was a thread a while back where they made a fence with a little bit missing at the bottom to allow the overhang to poke under before it is trimmed off.

I saw an article in an old woodsmith where they stuck some thin wooden spacers to the router fence with double sided tape to achieve the same effect.

You will need the bearing of the trimming bit just on the face of the board and if there is a spacer washer between the cutter and the bearing it will need to be removed so it does not mark the board. Maybe some masking tape on the face to prevent bearing marks.

Practice on some scrap!

It was JILLB who created the fancy router fence.

Here is the picture:
https://www.woodworkforums.com/attach...7&d=1220592713


here is the tread:
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f11/advice-applying-cabinet-edge-strips-78022

Have never tried using a flush bit on the glue on edge banding. But have always preferred to use a straight bit on a laminate trimmer rather than flush trimming bits. if you dont have access to one though, just watch out for glue build up on the bearing. i learnt the hard way where the glue built up and stopped the bearing spinning properly. it eventually blew apart and shot across the shed. the flush trim bit minus the bearing then gouged the piece. However this was trimming laminate so i guess the contact cement may be different to the heat glue on the edge banding.

I also learnt the hard way to buy a quality flush trim bit. First time i used laminate i did use a flush bit to trim the laminate. the cheaper bit wasnt quite flush, must have only been out micros though as all it did was shave a little bit of the laminate colour off.

I now use a very fine half round file to remove the edge banding. if you use it on a 45 angle and let the sharp tapered end of the tampered file effectively cut the edge banding. it gives you a lot more control.

Clint

I also prefer to use hand tools as they give you a lot more control. There is a handtool specifically for this purpose. It has (replacable) knives on both sides so you trim both sides of the edge at the same time and it generally cost under $30. In my view it is well worth the investment.

Regards
Andy

I've tried the file method, but I find the quickest and easiest method to trim the laminate is a steel ruler held at an angle of around 80 degrees to the horizontal and then the top is rotated downwards like a guillotine blade to trim the laminate. Then simply move the ruler along the edge and repeat. Alternately, once you find the right "cutting angle" you can just push the ruler along the edge.

Hi all,
I've been of the internet for a few days.
Thanks for the replies.
I've chickened out and am currently using the manual file method. I have used that in the past with reasonable success.
What I was thinking, I have a router table with a split fence. If I was to raise the height of the split fence slightly so the tape could slide under it, I could then use a couple of feather boards to hold the panel in place on edge and trim with a straight bit or similar.
What do you think?
Thanks,
Mal

I have never thought of using a split fence that way
That seams a really good idea and a lot less effort.

Well I've had a go at trimming the melamine iron on edging on my router table (as outlined in my post 20 December 2008) so I thought I would share the results for those interested.
I have a split fence that I was able to raise so the tape slides under the edge and I tried three different bits.
A flush trimming bit
A straight bit
A 30 degree Bevel Trim Bit/Bearing (Stehle Saws & Bits)
The flush triming bit left a small amount that I filed.
The straight bit gave good results after a bit of trial & error. If you are game.
The 30 degree gave good results once again after trial and error just nicking the edge. Probably my preference.
The good news was there was no chipout on any of the bits.
I trimmed the ends by hand.
I have a bit of edging to do in the next few weeks so I hope it works out.
Mal

I use a spare sharp jointer blade and run it flat at 45 degrees along the tape, and then sand it with 180-240G sandpaper on a block of wood just to remove the sharp edge. The floor ends up with alot of curly off cut strips of tape at the end of the day.