Thread: Triton MOF001 collett problems

Old picker,

When you put the router bit into the chuck, do you let drop all the way in or do you drop-tighten-then pull out slightly? It was explained to me that unlike a drill chuck, the collett chuck system when tightening actually pulls the bit down as it clamps from the collett nut, and if you have done the first then it will pull the bit down too far or famously, not tighten correctly on the bit, which may have caused your gouge.

Anyway, good news is at hand and i have just replaced my TRA-001 chuck and bought the 1/4" collet, which unfortunately not available in Aus, but in abundance in the UK.

Contact Dennis from Trition tools UK.

Triton Woodworking Tools

Best of luck.

I remember that rule from when I began routing but have to say I have not thoight of it for quite awhile. I recall I would always pull the bit up a little before tightening fully down. I must confess that hasn't been the case for quite awhile.

router bit and collett stuffed so that will be a good reminder

thanks for the advice and tip on getting a new collett

Originally Posted by old_picker

router bit and collett stuffed so that will be a good reminder

I'ts funny how we only remember things when it costs us money.... BTW, Dennis and the gang are superb, just on 2 week turn around from order - delivery.

What sort of cut were you doing when this happened? Was it a heavy cut?
Also, what speed did you have the router on.? Was it flat out or did you have it slowed down to one of the lower settings?

Originally Posted by Treecycle

What sort of cut were you doing when this happened? Was it a heavy cut?
Also, what speed did you have the router on.? Was it flat out or did you have it slowed down to one of the lower settings?

The bit was a pattern follower 19mm deep cut and 12.7mm diameter with 1/4"shaft - to be fair this bit had done a good deal of work - tried to replace it last week but couldnt get stock - bought a new carbitool yesterday luckily.

I took three slices around a job approx 1 meter total length. The material was a nice soft mahogany - some of the lateral bites were deeper than others - have done similar jobs with this router bit on numerous previous occasions. The router speed around two so not going real fast but fast enough to cut through without slowing the motor or anything like stalling or grabbing. see a pic of the job below. I tend to move slow and not push things hard at all. The small bit was used to establish a wall from the template. Template then removed and the rest of the job completed with a taller pattern follower bit. Oh for interests sake this is the internal chambers of a guitar. A fancy slice of tiger myrtle is glued over the chambers and the outside shape is cut first by bandsaw and then routed in a similar manner from the blank.

Would be most interested in any further feed back and discussion on what went wrong.

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For a bit of that diameter you should be running the router at top speed. You only need to slow it down a bit with bits over 1". Having it running so slow puts more load on it and more likely to make the shaft slip in the collet. If it was blunt that would make it even worse in regard to the load created.
Your new bit should be like cutting butter

Originally Posted by Treecycle

For a bit of that diameter you should be running the router at top speed. Having it running so slow puts more load on it and more likely to make the shaft slip in the collet.

so there is no actual benefit to running at slower speeds except for larger bits? For arguments sake, anything the same size or marginally bigger than the collet size should be maxed out? Does that include spiral uncut bits too or just a general rule, as I have had reasonable success with a 1/2” spiral cutter at number 3. In a finger sled. Sorry for the questions but am relatively new to the whole variable speed router thing. Until recently I had suffered my Bosch 400a 1/4” baby for 20 odd years and only needed to use it occasionally, but now I have built my one table, I’m finding the benefits are astronomical. I was lucky enough have bestowed on me a TRa-001 and about 30 x 1/2” bits of varying descriptions, some I doubt I will ever find a use for.

If you do a search for router bit recommended speeds virtually all sites will say 22 - 24,000 RPM for bits up to 1". A bit that is rotating faster will have more momentum as the cutting edge hits the timber and slice through the wood fibers easier. It's a bit like woodturning where you have your wood spinning as fast as you safely can for the diameter and your chisel will cut better and leave a smoother surface. Of coarse you have to take into account the hardness of the wood and if burning occurs it may be that you need to slow the bit down a bit or increase the feed rate so the bit isn't just rubbing on the surface your cutting.
Sounds like a good collection of bits you got with the router because the cost of them can add up very quickly if you have to purchase them separately. Hopefully they're mostly good quality ones.

As mentioned do not allow the bit to bottom out , to avoid this I place a small O ring in the collet base - the bit shank does not dislodge the ring and the operator cannot forget to ensure the bit has not bottomed out - a win all around.

UPO

So when the bit goes into the reducer it needs to be away from the bottom of the reducer by what 2mm??

I often work with tough timbers with interlocked or highly figured grain - over the years I've found that running at high speeds tends to burn if you dont move really quickly. The jobs are small and although not intricate there is a bit going on - like its never just a straight run at a stick of wood. I generally like to sit back and feed it through the curves and corners slow and easy.