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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    24

    Default Triton router problems

    I have recently bought the 1400 watt Triton router and the template kit that comes with a through the table winder.
    Also got the routertable insert plate from Carbatec, the one that comes with two removeble insert rings.

    And am waiting on the Original Incra Jig system Package from WoodPeckers.
    I have just built the table 900x600 laminated MDF 3/4inch thick

    Now, with the router table insert plate,after routing the table to fit it,does it have to be screwed in,bolted in?? or does it just stay in the table with the weight of the router below preventing it from moving around????
    And how do i attach the router to the table insert plate?Do i have to tap threads into it?.(no instructions came with the plate)

    Also as the table is 900x600, where would i best place the router table insert?
    Bearing in mind that i will be using the Incra jig and fence.
    cheers
    Colin

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Bowral, NSW, Australia
    Age
    74
    Posts
    1,471

    Default

    It's a pity you didn't buy the insert plate from Woodpeckers (or even got it free seeing you bought the Incra Jig) as now you can get the holes for the Triton pre drilled. You need to attach the router to the plate by the same size bolts that hold the router's face plate on- but longer (to allow for the thickness of the insert). The plate just sits there with the weight of the router. There should not be any movement. I'm happy with the measurements that come with the pre made router table by Woodpeckers. If no one else responds I'll measure mine exactly for you. It feels tons safer than the Triton table.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Jo'burg South Africa
    Age
    70
    Posts
    83

    Default

    I would wait until I have the Incra system on hand before doing the routing of the table top. Those things need a lot of room behind the bit.
    Cheers

    Brian

    "Brian departed this life after a number of years spent being a member of these forums, he will be sadly missed by all"

    Woodworking Australia's Woodwork Forums - May 2007

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    24

    Default return

    Yes, i am waiting on the jig before i do anything further to the table.
    And after looking at that carba tec plate yesterday,have seriously
    thought of returning it to carbatec for a refund and getting one
    from Woodpeckers,seeing as Carry Pine mention that they supply
    ones pre drilled, it would make the whole thing so much easier.
    Carry,could you tell me the measurements of your table and the postion of
    the insert.
    Thanks
    Colin

  6. #5
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    63
    Posts
    1,291

    Default

    Colin

    I would mount the plate in the centre of the long side of the table and to the edge of the short side leaving only enough room for the fence and adjustment.
    Also consider putting in an aluminium T track from Carbatec (ALMG32). This allows the use of accessories such as mitre guage. I also use the track for a tenoning jig. Apart from tenoning I use the tenoning jig for a draw lock bit -used to hold the draw sides vertical whilst passing the router bit.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    63
    Posts
    1,291

    Default

    I forgot to mention that you have to check for clearance under the table for the router and any other mechanicals. Depending on the size of the table supporting frame this can necessitate moving the mounting plate in from the edge.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Gorokan Central Coast NSW
    Age
    79
    Posts
    2,765

    Default Colin

    Below is a picture of my 900 x 600 table. The centre of the plate is positioned in the centre of the short side and 300 in from the edge ie. 300 in from each edge.

    http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...chmentid=17988

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    24

    Default Thanks

    Thanks for the pic, it clears it up for me.
    And what about that Triton through the table winder,anyone
    fitted one yet?

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Moss Vale NSW
    Age
    80
    Posts
    317

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by redd11
    Thanks for the pic, it clears it up for me.
    And what about that Triton through the table winder,anyone
    fitted one yet?
    I have purchased the Triton 1400 and have just fitted it to my router table ... the through the table winder is just great. The "dial" around the shaft is marked off in 2mm increments which makes fine adjustment really easy. The best feature though, which was on the big Triton, is the through the table bit replacement ... saved a lot of sore knuckles and poking around in dark places!

    Cheers,
    Zoot Esq
    4 out of 3 people have trouble with fractions.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    63
    Posts
    1,291

    Default

    Colin

    Termite has positioned his router plate in that position as a result of using the incra router fence system.

    If using a simpler router fence I would suggest mounting the plate closer to one edge of the long sidehalf way along to maximise work table support for the workpiece.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Gorokan Central Coast NSW
    Age
    79
    Posts
    2,765

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mat
    Colin

    Termite has positioned his router plate in that position as a result of using the incra router fence system.

    If using a simpler router fence I would suggest mounting the plate closer to one edge of the long sidehalf way along to maximise work table support for the workpiece.
    The last table I made was as you described and I found that 450mm to the cutter was too far. The layout I have is not totaly dictated by the Incra Jig, it is set up this way as I have found that 300mm lead in and tail out is quite adequate and 300mm in from the edge allows space for a mitre slide as well as giving sufficient lateral support to a wide piece.

    I could have made the top any size I wanted, and that's just what I did based on previous experience.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Burnett Heads, QLD
    Age
    64
    Posts
    1,535

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Zoot
    The "dial" around the shaft is marked off in 2mm increments which makes fine adjustment really easy.
    well ya must have a different definition of "fine adjustment" to the one i use

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Moss Vale NSW
    Age
    80
    Posts
    317

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by doug the slug
    well ya must have a different definition of "fine adjustment" to the one i use
    It was actually .2mm, but the "point" got lost in the ether!!

    Cheers,
    Zoot
    4 out of 3 people have trouble with fractions.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Burnett Heads, QLD
    Age
    64
    Posts
    1,535

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Zoot
    It was actually .2mm, but the "point" got lost in the ether!!

    Cheers,
    Zoot
    Sounds a lot better. thats why they invented lead zero's, so the "point" doesnt get lost

    Cheers

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    24

    Default Screws

    I am still not clear on how the router is actualy mounted to the router plate
    , the only way i think it can be done is by,,
    Drilling the holes straight through the router plate,
    Counter sink the holes on top of the router plate
    Then screw the longer bolts(screws) straight
    from the top of the plate in to the router below.
    Is that right?
    I mean place the plate(with holes already drilled) into position on the table,
    hold the router underneath, then screw the screws from the top.

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