Thread: Triton router mounting hole spacing

Courtesy of a rival forum routerforums.com this is a template for the MOF. The older TRA series are the same except they don't need the height winder hole. I don't know for certain that the newer TRA series with height winder have it in the same place as the MOF, but I suspect that it would be similar.

If your plate is thick enough, drill holes 1.5mm oversize and counterbore oversize to screw heads, then you can set centering so your inserts are centered on the bit, and you can set up an insert to take standard template guides and use standard bits for template work.

malb,
Thanks for that, just what I was looking for.
Checking on the TRA-001 (or TRC-001 I think it is now), the hole spacing is the same, the diameter of the base is 180mm.
There are some extra holes in the base for access to the bolts that hold the width guide on and to the screw holding on the depth gauge but I don't need to worry about those for router table usage.
The router plate I have is 10.5mm thick phenolic (298mmx234mm)

One thing I've just checked is the positioning of the holes in relation to the handles..The square formed by the 4 mounting holes is offset by (about) 60 degrees from a line drawn through the handles. Hope that makes sense.
Width of the router across the handles is 300mm, a bit larger than the hole I'll be cutting in the router table top so I'll need to make sure that the holes in the router plate set up the handles so they are diagonally across the plate.
As I'm doing this on the CNC router, I can easily make adjustments and cut a test piece out of MDF.

Update:
Having a good look at the router shows that I don't have to do anything special to the hole alignment wrt the router handles. With the hole alignment as shown, the handles will be placed diagonally. Now to turn it into gcode!

I have the older model and a Kreg plate. Diagonal mounting is still tight in my table cutout so I remove and store the passive (non height adjusting) handle from the router, then it comes in and out of the table easily. Just keep the handle and screws handy to replace as needed, and leave the insert attached as an expanded base as I have other smaller routers for tight access situations.

Funny you should mention that - I've just been looking at how much of a hassle it would be to remove the handle for when it's in the router table!

I've created the gcode which I'll test out later in the week at the hackerspace. My CNC router is off the air at the moment, I lent my Gecko controller to a member here and I've been a bit slack at assembling another one. I have all the bits to do so, just need a kick to get started.

Still need to work out the besst way to handle a zero clearance insert. A simple rebate and a disk cut to be an interference fit seems to be the easiest so far.