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20th September 2008, 06:04 AM #1
I have an idea about base plates I want to ask you folks about!
We recently bought a new dining room table and had no use for the old one so I "acquired" it for shop use.
.The top is in excellent condition and even though it is oak laminate, it is very high grade so I decided to use a section of it for a router table and attached it to the side of my table saw. I am going to make a new base plate for the router that will go in the top and I was thinking about it.
The reason I'm thinking of making a round plate is it will be easier to cut a reasonably perfect round disc on my bandsaw and then use my circle jig base plate on my plunge router to cut the recess for the plate in the table. It also seems like a round plate would be stronger and you could cut the whole in the top as small as possible to be able to remove the router.
Whew, didn't mean to rattle on that much!!!
Anyway, have any of you folks ever seen a router table with a round base plate?
Thanks for your time!!!!Take care!!
Michael
Your talent is God's gift to you. What you do with it is your gift back to God.-- Leo Buscaglia
Always think of your fellow craftsmen as partners in the search for the perfect piece of yourself, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!
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20th September 2008, 07:10 AM #2
Hello Michael,
I have yet to see a round base plate!
I think you are onto something, it would certainly be easier to produce the mounting hole.
But what about levelling screws and adjustment?The secret to creativity is knowing how to hide your sources.
Albert Einstein
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20th September 2008, 08:14 AM #3
TS, I have never used leveling screws in a router plate. If I don't get the depth just right when I cut out the recess, I've always used masking tape to take up the difference, lol!
One problem I did think about with a round plate was the centrifical force of the bit might make the base and router turn. That could be dealt with by putting an index pin in the table and base plate.
Ahhh, Maybe I should stay with the ole tried and true rectangular plate!!!Take care!!
Michael
Your talent is God's gift to you. What you do with it is your gift back to God.-- Leo Buscaglia
Always think of your fellow craftsmen as partners in the search for the perfect piece of yourself, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!
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20th September 2008, 08:19 AM #4
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20th September 2008, 03:00 PM #5
I would be cautious about mounting an index pin directly into the tabletop recess as there probably won't be a lot of material around it, leaving it open to tearing out at an inopportune time. For preference I would set the pin in a sturdy metal bar secured back under the table top with 3 screws. The issue you are dealing with really is a torque reaction rather than centrifugal force.
You haven't discussed what router you are using, but for some large routers, handle clearance etc requires that you mount them on the commercial rectangular plates with the handles accross the diagonals to get enough clearance to insert/ remove without hassles. Doesn't apply to all but it does for some.
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20th September 2008, 10:29 PM #6
I'd advise against the round plate, for most of the reasons cited. The Veritas product information doesn't explain very well how the router is attached from below in "seconds." (No, I didn't bother to look at the pdf.)
For adequate torque resistance, TWO pins, diagonally opposed, would be much better than only one. And considering that a rectangular plate would provide more resistance against the rebate anyway (because of greater torque arms), the round plate doesn't seem to offer a significant improvement.
JoeOf course truth is stranger than fiction.
Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain
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1st October 2008, 11:54 AM #7
Well guys, I got it all finished up and went with the round plate after all!
I did take Joe's advice and used two opposing pins to keep the plate from rotating. I scratched a witness mark in the plate near one of the holes and on the table near one of the pins so the router goes back into the table the same way every time. I've used it several times and it works just fine. Since it's an add on to my table saw, I'm able to use the saw's rip fence with the router which is very nice!
Since my shop/garage is small and my table saw is in the center of it, I decided to put some outlets on the saw. I bought a double outlet box, 2 double outlets, a switch for the router and a switch box, and somw power cord to run from the outlets to the wall. I put the 4 outlets under the saw on the router table and plugged the table saw and router into them and I still have two outlets available. This is real handy when I need to use my sander or brad nailer or what ever. I wired the switch into the router cord and turned the router's switch on and mounted the new switch on the side of the table. Now I have easy accss to turn the router on and off. Before I had to reach under the table and feel around for the switch and then try to figure out which way to flip it.
One thing I do need to do to improve the set up is sand the table down real slick and polish it real good so the wood I'm working on slides across it better!
If anyone might want to see a picture or two let me know and I'd be happy to post them!Take care!!
Michael
Your talent is God's gift to you. What you do with it is your gift back to God.-- Leo Buscaglia
Always think of your fellow craftsmen as partners in the search for the perfect piece of yourself, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!
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1st October 2008, 12:02 PM #8
Pictures please Stryker, as they say "no pics, did'nt happen".
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1st October 2008, 09:18 PM #9
Well done, Michael (pending pictures, of course ). The extra outlets will certainly find use.
As a slight improvement over my first suggestion, the opposing pins might better be almost diagonally opposed, i.e. at an angle of less than 180 degrees, so that the plate can be installed in only one correct position. This is for others so tempted; your witness mark will suffice for you.
JoeOf course truth is stranger than fiction.
Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain
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11th October 2008, 01:08 PM #10
Sorry it's taken so long guys but here's a couple pix!
Since i took them, I sanded the table with 220 grit and polished it with car wax and wood slides across it like ice!
Everything is working great and the extra outlets are super handy!
Just thought I'd show the underside so you could see how I rigged the wiring and the extra outlets.Only gripe I have is the table doesn't take up all the space offered on the end of the table saw and I think I'm going to put a bigger router in it!Take care!!
Michael
Your talent is God's gift to you. What you do with it is your gift back to God.-- Leo Buscaglia
Always think of your fellow craftsmen as partners in the search for the perfect piece of yourself, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!
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20th October 2008, 01:56 PM #11
Got to use the router table tonight to cut some dadoes in some 1/2" birch veneer plywood I'm making a box out of. I used the table saw fence as a guide and I have to say, they're the best dadoes I've ever done! They fit the corresponding boards perfect and there is no way I could have done this without this table and the fence!
I'm going to look for a piece of 1 1/2" thick laminate that will fill the entire space
available on the side of my table saw my router is on. I think laminate would be a better surface and might as well use the space that's available.Take care!!
Michael
Your talent is God's gift to you. What you do with it is your gift back to God.-- Leo Buscaglia
Always think of your fellow craftsmen as partners in the search for the perfect piece of yourself, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!
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