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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Too close to Sydney
    Posts
    1,385

    Default

    Waldo it looks like you are planning to make a Norm style table.

    I built one of these and prepared some plans. The links are here

    http://woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=30969

    http://woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=30882

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    In the shed, Melbourne
    Age
    52
    Posts
    6,883

    Default

    G'day Boban,

    Yep, I found your thread a while back and have styled my table after yours. I joined routerforums.com a did a bit of digging in there for a while, worked out what I like etc., and ended up coming back to your table as the best I'd found.

    Norm's table is copied a fair bit, and interpreted for good reason I suppose.

    I've just about got all the bits I need and hopefully fingers crossed will be starting construction very shortly.

    Things take while to get started in my shed making sure things are the track I want to go down take a lot of thinking on for me and adjustment along the way.

    Another two weeks should see things started.

    I just picked up a 8" vice from a bloke on eBay, had to drive out to Cranbourne to pick it up on Thursday night - seller wouldn't let me get it picked up by courier.

    The vice has a close thread which will be good for my router lift which is based on Bob38S's lift. Just have to work out the dimensions for the fitting the vice so far as it's placement under the table and I'm set to go.

    Sunday I'll be meeting a bloke who manufactures irrigation equipment to work what size irrigation wheel I can fit to the vice.
    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Too close to Sydney
    Posts
    1,385

    Default

    Good luck,

    I just thought you may have missed the plans and thought it might save you a bit of time. By the looks of it, you haven't missed a thing. I remember trawling through the net for the ideal router table just like you.

    It's worth it though, makes life so much easier.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    In the shed, Melbourne
    Age
    52
    Posts
    6,883

    Default

    G'day,

    After a month I'm finally getting down to construction of my router table. Yesterday with the help of Skew we threw a couple of full sheets of 2400x 1200 18mm MDF over the 10HB and cut the last of the pieces of the jig saw.

    The first shot shows all the bits for assembly.

    The second, again with Skew and his trusty Brad Nailgun is the torsion box. It's over engineered (but that's me) but my thinking is there's gonna be a tonne of weight on the base so it needs to be strong. All up there's a bout 3 1/2 sheets of 2400 x 1200 in the router table, excluding the top to come from Professional Woodworkers Supplies. In the torsion box alone there's a full sheet

    Second shot shows the torsion box with the rebates marked out, which I'll see about doing today with the router.

    So the journey has begun, it'll take a while yet as I'm trying to be nice to the finances and spread the cost out. (and save the wrath of SWMBO )
    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Minbun, FNQ, Australia
    Age
    66
    Posts
    12,881

    Default

    It isn't going to blow away the first time you phart that's for sure.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    In the shed, Melbourne
    Age
    52
    Posts
    6,883

    Default

    G'day Cliff,

    , nor the second time either.
    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Longreach
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,108

    Default

    All up there's a bout 3 1/2 sheets of 2400 x 1200 in the router table, excluding the top to come from Professional Woodworkers Supplies. In the torsion box alone there's a full sheet
    Last time I saw that much mdf, I was building a full kitchen

    Gotta say though, It's going to be one mean table.

    specialist
    Check my facebook:rhbtimber

  9. #23
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Epping.Vic
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,094

    Default

    Looking good Waldo,
    Regards
    Al .

    You don't know, what you don't know, until you know it.

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    In the shed, Melbourne
    Age
    52
    Posts
    6,883

    Default The drawer carcasses

    G'day,

    I've had a bit of time to do some more stuff on the router table. The first thing after doing the torsion box was knocking up the 8 drawer carcasses. I won't go into the details of it by way of pics.

    But what I basically did was first up drilled the pilot holes with a 3mm bit (as I'm using 8g 45mm c/sunk screws) then finished the pilot holes with a c/sunk bit , put the screws in just so the points showed through and mated each side up with the drawer base and pressed into each side edge - this gave me a reference point to drill each pilot hole in the base. Applied AV180 glue and screwed home. This process was contiued all the way for the drawer carcasses.

    There's a bit of trimming to do on some carcasses where there is a bit out of slight whack here and there.
    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    In the shed, Melbourne
    Age
    52
    Posts
    6,883

    Default Some more progress

    G'day,

    After a very slow start I was champing at the bit to get some more of the r/table done, so I snuck in some more work when I should've been working my 9ish–5ish job.

    The next stage was to do the 5mm rebates in the top of the torsion box. I picked up a 18mm Carbi-Tool r/bit at 1/2 price (among some others) at the closing down sale at Ringwood Mega Mitre-10 for the initial sole purpose of doing the rebates.

    There's always a reason to measure twixe and cut once. When Skew and I knocked up the t/box a while back we marked up the positioning of the internal and external sides - well I, he or we got the measurments wrong.

    Once I sorted this out I clamped up my trusty-pulled-out-of-the-skip-bin straight edge , clamped it into position and turned the power on to the router and it kicked into action (hadn't been turned on for about 4 years or so )
    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    In the shed, Melbourne
    Age
    52
    Posts
    6,883

    Default

    G'day,

    Next up I routered the rebate for the external walls - 9mm x 18mm which will fit into the top of the torsion box.

    The next bit was to cut out the areas on the internal walls (having a brain phart, so excuse the made up phrases) for the bracing to a. keep things all square and b. the router top from PWS will screwed into these.

    When I made up my cross-cut sled, one of the intentions was that I could clamp pieces to it to run through the t/saw, just like this example.

    With the sled base being 18mm MDF it doesn't give me the cut height from the blade to cut all that I need, but when I cut the 2nd pass this'll work out okay.

    The rebates are cut, now I just need to pair off the waste with a chisel and I'm done.
    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    In the shed, Melbourne
    Age
    52
    Posts
    6,883

    Default

    G'day,

    Now the r/table is really taking shape, last night when I put my little girl to bed (with MIL in the house to look after her) I came down and did some more work.

    With all the sides ready for assembly it was time clamp and glue up the walls. (here is where I really need those K60s from Martin)

    With a bit of fiddling and expleatives I got things into position, I found that the 18mm rebates in the t/box were to tight, so I redid them an extra 1mm and the internal walls fitted snuggly.

    The extrenal walls are drilled with pilot holes, countersunk and the base is also pilot drilled then screwed with 8g 45mm c/sunk screws.

    I cut some spacers to get things vertically plumb etc. to the mm, but for whatever reason they forced the walls out of square, anyway with them a bit on an angle they still did their job.
    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Bendigo Victoria
    Age
    80
    Posts
    16,560

    Default

    Starting to look good Waldo. So what is to become of the router wing in the TSC10?

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    53
    Posts
    8,879

    Default

    Looking great Waldo. It is nothing like a good, sturdy and flat router table.

    Be very careful when you cut those MDF. Wear a good dust mask.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    In the shed, Melbourne
    Age
    52
    Posts
    6,883

    Default

    G'day Big Shed,

    I may use it I dunnno, but as it came with the 10HB then .

    C/T stuufed up as you know and it wasn't in the box so I got the correct wing shipped to me, at the end of the day their stuff-ups meant I had a wider table than I otherwise would've had.
    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

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