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  1. #46
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    Hi John, did you make the acrylic components yourself. If so they look really good!

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  3. #47
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    Default Thanks Gareth and Bob

    Gareth,

    It's a bit chunky, but not at all unwieldy. Everything moves smoothly and its a delight to use.

    Bob,

    Yes, I bought two 400X400 sheets of acrylic so the riser and arms could also be made of acrylic. It works a treat, with great visibility across the whole table. I still get a very small smattering of larger particles thrown forward by the blade just as the blade finishes the cut and exits the workpiece. Not really concerned, but have a couple of ideas for mods that may help.

  4. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Samuel View Post
    Gareth,

    It's a bit chunky, but not at all unwieldy. Everything moves smoothly and its a delight to use.
    A welded steel bracket would look a bit tidier but hey - if it works then why bother?

    Yes, I bought two 400X400 sheets of acrylic so the riser and arms could also be made of acrylic. It works a treat, with great visibility across the whole table. I still get a very small smattering of larger particles thrown forward by the blade just as the blade finishes the cut and exits the workpiece. Not really concerned, but have a couple of ideas for mods that may help.
    Again - Excellent job!
    Suggestion: Instead of a can suspended from the arm, what about finding a weight that can slide up and down the arm and be clamped to different places on that arm - that way you will have a way of adjusting the counter torque with needing to adjust the weight. A lump of steel or lead would do the trick. If you were close by I would be able to give you a piece of railway line support plate.

    Is it a 150 or 100 mm flex?

  5. #49
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    I don't have a welder ... so it was all made from wood. It works.

    The coffee can is only temporary ... rigged it up so I could test the set-up tonight. It also allowed me to work out how much weight was necessary. I'll pick up some lead tomorrow.

    The flexy is 4 inch, but the opening in the riser is equal to a 3 1/2 inch pipe, so that restriction controls the air flow.

  6. #50
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    Default New sled

    Bunnings wanted $35 for a single sheet of lead ... pass. I'll find a lump of steel or similar.

    Made a new sled yesterday. Wanted to be able to use the blade guard with the sled. The old sled was made of ply, and that warped a little ... very disappointing ... so this one is made of MDF. Hopefully, that will not warp. The front of the sled and the fence is 24 mm high (at the centre where it is cut away to allow the guard to ride through). A few finishing touches to come, but it works like a bought one. Given that nearly all of my sled cuts are on furniture panels, this sled should do the job fine.
    IMAG0151.jpg

  7. #51
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    When testing the sled I cut several thin (about 10-15 mm) pieces from a 50 mm X 20 mm board. Several of them were whisked up the riser and into the ductwork. Made my grumpy old heart beat faster with joy.

  8. #52
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    The coffee can is gone.

    My lead lighting wife heard me grumbling about what Bunnings wanted to charge for a sheet of lead and presented me with a container of off-cuts from her lead cames. I melted them down and made a counterweight, see pic.
    IMAG0160.jpg

  9. #53
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    Looks great - is that a little bristle brush I can see on the front bottom of the guard?

  10. #54
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    Bob,

    Yes, that is what you see. It is a small section of door seal brush that stops some of the dust being thrown out of the front of the guard by the blade.

  11. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Samuel View Post
    Bob,

    Yes, that is what you see. It is a small section of door seal brush that stops some of the dust being thrown out of the front of the guard by the blade.
    Does it help?

  12. #56
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    Yes, but not by a lot. I tried to keep the front opening low, because that's where a lot of the dust off the blade hits. However, some of the particles have enough momentum to escape the negative pressure bubble. Given that the dust is moving at 100 MPH, that's no surprise.

  13. #57
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    Default Joy and happiness! It works wonderfully!

    The overhead dust collection got a good run this morning.

    Ripping was very clean. Only tiny specks of dust remained after a series of cuts.

    Then came crosscutting. Normally, it is very clean until the saw exits the workpiece, when a small amount is thrown forward off the blade. The little brush at the front of the guard catches some, but not all of this dust.

    Yesterday I decided to put a coat of white lacquer on my new sled ... just because I could. The high gloss white surface shows up dust pretty well, but I did it to make it look pretty. If I wanted to see the dust better, it would have been painted black.
    IMAG0165.jpg

    This morning I used it to crosscut some cedar ... and the dust on the sled was close to nil. As the blade exits the workpiece, the dust must either continue under the table with the blade, or shoot up. If it shoots up, the draught grabs it and it is off to the cyclone. In this case, the brush works very well. See pic.
    IMAG0168.jpg

    The next pic shows the result of a test with the sled. 18 cuts were made in one inch pine, cedar and Vic ash. There are a couple of specks of dust there, but they are insignificant.
    IMAG0161.jpg

    Finally, this is what happens if the off-cut fits inside the blade guard. Several zipped up the riser. In this case one stuck against the ribbing and a second was caught behind it. A shake of the flexy and they clattered through the ductwork and into the bin.
    IMAG0164.jpg

    Dust collection is now generally very good, but when using the sled, the dust collection is as close of perfect as we could hope for. This was a bonus I was not expecting.

  14. #58
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    Default Update - Overhead dust collection

    The way the sled works to reduce dust was confirmed today. If the workpiece is no higher than the fence where it has been cut away to allow the guard to pass, dust collection is nothing short of brilliant. The cut away section is 24 mm high precisely because most of my timbers for furniture are 20-24 mm thick. For timbers of this thickness the 24 mm fence height allows the guard to be kept close to the workpiece but still pass over the fence.

    But when a bigger piece is cut, in this case 40 mm high, where the workpiece is higher than the fence dust is produced in greater quantity ... not a lot ... but certainly more. In the attached pic you can see the small amount of dust on the sled after four cuts. It seems is not the size of the cut that counts so much. Rather it seems to be the number of cuts that are higher than the fence that causes the dust. If I am missing something here, I'd love to hear it.
    IMAG0175.jpg

  15. #59
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    Default Linisher Upgrade

    I was pretty pleased with the linisher after a couple of modifications to the hood. I was getting only a few specks coming back onto the left hand table (around the wheel). However, it seemed that extending the section of pipe running down the back of the returning belt would likely help, so it was extended.

    First pic shows the hood off the machine from the back. The section of pipe running down the back of the belt can be seen. It is 250 mm long, and runs 200 mm down the back of the returning belt.
    IMAG0179.jpg

    Second pic shows the hood from the front. The piece of cedar is scalloped in an attempt to reduce resistance.

    IMAG0180.jpg

    The hood was fitted again, and several pieces of scrap were turned into dust. Nil ... nada ... nought ... zero ... zip ... absolutely no material escaped. The end table was as clean as a whistle.

    The extension of the pipe running behind the linisher along the returning belt certainly worked. The fact that the Clear Vue could simultaneously suck start a whole Jumbo jet fleet helps a lot, I suppose.

  16. #60
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    Hi John, Can't quite make out what you have done here - can you post some pics of the port on the sander?

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