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Thread: 2hp DE Build

  1. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    A more representative performance change from the power figures can be made by subtracting the power when the DC is not moving any air from all the other powers.
    OK. Here are the numbers I came up with. If I'm correct the cyclone is more restrictive than the flexi.

    power.png

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    I would also seriously put something protective around the filters.
    Definitely going to do that. They are very exposed at the moment.

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  3. #77
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    I now need to open up my TS dust port to 125mm. There's insufficient space to enlarge the blade shroud outlet to 125mm due to the lack of clearance between the shroud and the cabinet side when the blade is tilted to 45 degrees. So my plan is to split the 125mm into two 100mm ducts with a Y piece. One 100mm flexi duct will go to the blade shroud and the other to a BMH in the cabinet to grab some of the fine dust the shroud misses.

    Ezi-duct want $153 to make a 125-100-100 Y piece. That seems a little excessive. I reckon I can bodge something up with sheetmetal. It won't be pretty, but if I can mount it inside the cabinet that won't matter. I should be able to fit the Y piece inside the cabinet, but it is tight in there thanks to the spindle moulder motor. If it wont fit, I will have to locate the Y piece outside the cabinet and run a second 100mm duct through the wall of the cabinet (probably through the access door).

    I'd welcome any feedback or better ideas.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #78
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    The blade shroud looks so constricted it will end up sucking very little anything because the air will find it much easier to go the other route. If that is the case you might consider removing the blade shroud completely.

    I'm not sure what to advise with your DC system, but if you had 6" ducting and beefier DC I would just plumb the 6" direct to the cabinet using BMH like this
    Improving machine cabinet dust ports

    BMHs work better fitted flush to the side of a cabinet rather than hanging out in the breeze like you show with your (not really BMH shape) scoops on the end of the flex

    Something like this C or D will work - of course it requires opening up the port in your cabinet AND cutting holes for vents elsewhere in the opposite wall of the cabinet - not everyone is prepared to do this.
    Screen Shot 2020-02-17 at 2.25.51 pm.png
    Maybe you could leave the blade shroud fitted and remove the flex and then fit a "slide" from the end of the shroud to close to the BMH - anything loose that falls off the end of the slide near the vicinity BMH is gonna be grabbed like a frog tongue grabs a fly.

    This is lathe dust collection which is why its hanging out in the breeze.


  5. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    The blade shroud looks so constricted it will end up sucking very little anything because the air will find it much easier to go the other route.
    I think it's more substantial than it looks. It actually catches a lot of the heavier sawdust. Even with the flexi disconnected from the cabinet the blade throws a lot of sawdust out the 100mm port onto the floor. I reckon it's worth keeping.

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    I'm not sure what to advise with your DC system, but if you had 6" ducting and beefier DC I would just plumb the 6" direct to the cabinet using BMH like this
    Mmmm, well I don't. That setup would probably work well, but but the spindle moulder motor in mine prevents me from fitting a floor in the cabinet to catch the sawdust. A lot would just end up on the floor under the cabinet.

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    BMHs work better fitted flush to the side of a cabinet rather than hanging out in the breeze...

    Something like this C or D will work...
    OK. That means fitting the Y piece outside the cabinet. I would have to mount the BMH in the access door. That could work.


    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Maybe you could leave the blade shroud fitted and remove the flex and then fit a "slide" from the end of the shroud to close to the BMH - anything loose that falls off the end of the slide near the vicinity BMH is gonna be grabbed like a frog tongue grabs a fly.
    I'm not sure if that would work with the blade tilt. Would need to be a large BMH. I'll have a look if that's feasible tomorrow. It would certainly make the plumbing easy.

    Thanks for the advice.

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  7. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    Well they are all 100 mm and the only one that seems to have close to the correct radius of curvature is the Adler speed but that won't sit flush with the inside of the cabinet.
    Given you have 6" ducting unless you're going to use 3 x 100mm ducts in parallel I wouldn't use a BMH <150mm.

    If you have a lathe you can make you own - look up bell mouth hoods on the forum
    or
    Improving machine cabinet dust ports

    I seem to recall seeing 150 mm ones for sale somewhere one line - maybe keep looking?

    OR for a fee I can make them for you - but unfortunately there is a serious gotcha.
    I currently have a broken ankle so can't start making any for 4 weeks
    I might have a spare in my shed but my one working foot is so sore I can't even go down the back stairs to look in the shed at the moment.

  8. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Given you have 6" ducting unless you're going to use 3 x 100mm ducts in parallel I wouldn't use a BMH <150mm.
    I have 5" ducting, but will look for a 6" BMH.

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    If you have a lathe you can make you own - look up bell mouth hoods on the forum
    I have a Hercus 260. I saw your thread on how to make them. Excellent work, but it seems like a lot of faffing for one BMH.

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    I seem to recall seeing 150 mm ones for sale somewhere one line - maybe keep looking?
    Will do. Thanks again.

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  10. #84
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    Make sure the 150 is the ID of the duct and not the flared end.
    The width of the flared end should be at least 150+150/2 = 225 mm

    Anyway if it is a true 150 mm BMH that's much cheaper than I charge

    btw BMHs are really effective on most machine cabinets and for any “naked” duct termination like lathes and drill presses, so you will (eventually) many more than one. Bandsaws can use 3 x 100mm BMHs.

  11. #85
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    Speaker ports are another source of bell mouth although the 6" ones are harder to find. Might not be as heavy as the conduit ones you found.

    Pete

  12. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Make sure the 150 is the ID of the duct and not the flared end.
    Will do.

    I found a 125-125-125 Y connector at Carbatec for $18. They also have 125-100 reducers for $10. That's a lot cheaper than a $153 metal Y connector from Ezi-duct. So I've come up with version 3 of my design. It keeps the original 100mm duct to the blade shroud and runs a 125mm flexi to a BMH mounted in the cabinet access door. That gives most airflow to the BMH. Do you think it will starve the blade shroud too much?
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    . Do you think it will starve the blade shroud too much?
    Probably but it’s worth a try.
    what will starve the other flex is lack of air inlets in the cabinet.Narrow slots and small hole are still very restrictive. If this is all that is being relied on, those openings should add up in area to about 4x the area of the slots and holes. If a vent is installed it should be ~2x the X area of the flex.
    It’s all a bit chicken and egg as venting the cabinet will then pull more air from the cabinet but less air from the shroud. ☹️

  14. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    what will starve the other flex is lack of air inlets in the cabinet. Narrow slots and small hole are still very restrictive.
    There's actually heaps of ventilation. The bottom has large gaps all around and the side that joins the thicknesser is wide open.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    There's actually heaps of ventilation. The bottom has large gaps all around and the side that joins the thicknesser is wide open.
    It may then be best to block some off to force flow to be mainly from the side opposite the location of the BMH.

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