Thread: 3-4HP motor for Cyclone Dust Extractor

Originally Posted by Harry72

What like a motor bikes muffler, a central mounted tube that is perforated?

I got the idea from here http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/Muffler.cfm
but could not get the metal clamp together pipe and used a PVC 11" pipe from a skip. I used a 12" funnel to allow the air to go from 6" to the 11". First I used chicken wire to form the 6" through pipe then fiberglass cloth, then foam followed by roof insulation and finally foam acoutic tiles attached to the outer pipe.
The 3HP motor was the noisiest in the workshop folloewd by my Triton saw now the Triton is way out in front

"CAn ya really put a price on ya lungs?

I conservatively price mine at $1000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 00000000000000"
NewLou

Lou, have you factored in devaluation due to excessive use??

Cheers,

Mark

Yup

Ex smoker so I had to drop the price considerably

REgards Lou

Thanks for all the replies! Might I add that this is so important to get correct, as it is about our health!

Anyway, this is where I am at and why:

• I have a 2HP dust extractor with 5 micron filter bag. It has the two 4'' outlets, connected to a 5'' port. Even after connecting this unit to my machines, I find some larger chips still around the machines and fine dust everywhere!
• From researching this topic, the one area I have fallen down on is the amount of airflow required. Now, to get the chips into the bag requires air velocity (like throwing a bag full of wood chips on your car...the only way to remove them is to drive faster...vucuum cleaners are high velocity machines). However to get rid of all that fine dust before it infiltrates the shed, you need to grab a large volume of air around the machine and drive it into the dust extractor.
• The biggest factor in volume of air is pipe size. It is continually recommended to be around the 6'' pipe, as reducing the pipe at any point in the line kills of volume flow (bit like standing on the garden hose). However, use too large a pipe and you reduce the velocity within the pipe and you don't pick up all the wood chips. Big motors and fans, connected to small pipe are near on useless for large volumes of air, as the pipe kills off flow. Bill Pentz, in http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/DC4Dummies.cfm suggests that dropping from 6" to 4" appears to reduce the flow by as much as 50%.
• So, I was going to run 6" pipe all around the shed, however, my dust extractor as mentioned, at best has a 5" port. Like standing on the hose, that kills flow.
• Yet I could go to 5" pipe. Sourcing PVC 5" is very hard and very expensive. You can use MDF and make up box/rectangular section that duplicates the pipe (5" pipe area [1/2 X 5] squared X 3.14) = 19.6. Box section of 4"x5" is almost the same.
• I also find that my filter bag fills up rapidly...killing of the flow.
• The cyclone does filter out much on the large chips and finer dust, leaving the rest for the fine filter bag. With filter bags down to 0.5 microns not connected up to some pre-seperator, they tend to clog up too quickly and hence kill flow.
• My conclusion is to go with the best cyclone design that is already around. It has 6" pipe already standard. Fit my own 3-4 HP motor (Aussie version). Then fit a fine filtration and baffle system onto the end of the cyclone.

Hence, my original question. Anyone got any ideas on where the best place to get these types of motors?

Regards
Tim
Brisbane

Unless there is an overriding need (like climate control in cold areas) I do not see why everyone does not exhaust the pre-filtered air to the outside of the shed or work area. If required it could be exhausted into a large box made of very coarse filter material eg filter material as in a spray booth. I would put the primary filters in an enclosed box and exhaust the air through the wall or put the primary filters/bags into a box designed to catch the fine dust (this being outside). There is basically no reason to have the exhaust returned to the operator at all as far as I am concerned. If this is followed, the fine dust becomes a non issue and we can all breath easy. I have spoken to a friend who is in the ventilation industry and he has assured me I can source the fans and motors out of South East Asia from the same source as they use and he will do the flow figures and size it for me. I assured him that there were quite a few wood workers who would be interested if it is successful.
Bear in mind if the exhaust is run into a filtered box once the air speed drops its ability to hold the dust in suspension is lowered so running the exhaust into a VERY large filtered box means that coarse filters will contain the dust, easily eliminating any dust problems to neighbours.

Hello Timmy,

When I got my ClearVue (the other week) it came with the 15 inch impeller, and 7/8 imperial taperlock.
Ed was able to supply me with a 28mm Maska TaperLock for about $6 US + $16 US shipping so that I could fit it to australian metric motors. He has numerous sizes available, 24mm also. You would need to check whether this would fit into the 14Inch impeller you have, or maybe you could buy an impeller also from Ed to make sure everything works together ok.

My clearvue came through UPS without problems, although it was expensive (ouch). I have since learned there are freight forwarding companies who can advise on the best option to transport and import goods.
I can give you the name of one I found helpful if you would like (no affiliation to me).


Good LUck.
Smithy_1
Brisbane

smithy_1,
I would love to know further about you setup. I have considered butchering my new dusty, but decided to put it on ebay. Anyway, like to more about how it is all going.
Tim

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=31169
Timmy - Heres a link of a cyclone I built about 3months ago From plans which I downloaded from Bill Pentz site, Cost for the cyclone only, was $40 -
(2 X sheets 1200 x 2400 x 24# @ $20 each)
I will be using the blower from my current dust extractor.
when I get more shed time will try and get the ducting completed and connected up.:eek:

Al B,
Wow...you really have made a nice job of that cyclone. I would love to have a crack at that, put really not sure if I would stuff it up. Just one question. How did you cut the sheet metal? Because it looks like it was done with something that does not resemble snips?

Nice job .

Tim

Get a nibbler - fits to your drill, and is a lot easier to cut sheet.

How did you cut the sheet metal? Because it looks like it was done with something that does not resemble snips?

The Tin snips/shears and are made by Gilbow there is a RH and LH version.
most tool places should sell them.
I think any reasonable pair of tin snips should have no problems cutting light gauge sheetmetal.

I was given a loan of an air powered nibbler to use to cut out the sheetmetal but found it much easier and more accurate with my trusty old snips.

The Tin snips/shears and are made by Gilbow there is a RH and LH version.

heres a pic