Thread: 6” dust port in table saw

Originally Posted by groeneaj

Hi all,

I’m finishing up my 6” dust extraction setup and need to hook up my table saw.

If I replace the existing 4” port with a 6”, it won’t fit where it currently is. There’s a ramp at the bottom of the saw which will get in the way and also the door gets in the way.

So my question is, is there any issues cutting the 6” hole for the PVC in the door? If so, would I extend the PVC into the cabinet a bit more? Would I see any decrease in performance?

I’m trying to avoid cutting the hole on the back if the saw as my 6” line is right next to where the 4” port currently is.

Your help is appreciated.

Cheers,
Andy





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Don't see why you would see a decrease in performance because you will be maintaining the 6" by cutting a 6" hole into your door. However instead of sticking the pipe through the door you could use a coupler which will have a lip on it (maybe a threaded coupler) if you push the coupler through the hole from the inside of your saw door, then you could attach your pipe to the coupler which would stop the pipe from moving around because the door would be sandwich by the coupler and the pipe.

You could put it on the door but the ramp will then fill up with sawdust and crap.

Solution 1:
Replace the single 4" port with 2 x 4" ports.
Presumably you are ducting to the saw with a 6" duct.
Remember that no more than ~1250 cfm will go through that pipe?

If you allocate 1 x 4" (400 CFM) to the OH guard that leaves 800 CFM to the cabinet which 2 x 4" ports can easily carry.

The easiest way would be to cut out a rectangular panel say 6 x 11" where the current 4" port is on the TS.

Get your self a piece of 7 x 12" sheet metal or MDF and cut the two 4" holes side by side leaving enough clearance to attach 2 x 4" waste tray floor flanges (avail @ bunnings) grates and glue/Tek screw these over the holes i teh sheet metal/MDF.
Screen Shot 2022-03-12 at 3.35.15 pm.png
The 4" ducting should fit neatly into these - do not over poke the ducting thru the holes - this throttles the extraction.

The two 4" lengths of ducting will need to be joined using a 6"/4" Y and a 4/6" adapter called a "level invert".
You will end up with ~800 cfm through the 2 x 4"Ducts and ~400 cfm through the OH guard.

Solution 2.
The duct hole in the side of the cabinet does not need to be round it could be rectangular, as long as it is slightly bigger in area than a 6" duct.
The rectangular hole should be surrounded by a rectangular flange, you can use sheet metal or MDF for this.
Then you will need a rectangular to 6" round adapter.
This is one I made out of a the SS from a clothes drier drum.
All you need is a plan, a pair of snips and a pop rivet gum.
PlanerThicky1.JPG

Look for square to round adapter plans on the web and on Youtube for how to do it.

There's a few more variations but that should give you some ideas.

I took the easier route and just added a second 4" port to the cabinet instead of opening it to 6". The shroud around the blade of my TS is quite efficient with a 4" port so the second port just picks up the small amount of loose stuff that gets into the cabinet. Works great.

Thanks for all the replies.

Bob- I’m pretty sure I understand what you’re saying. If I go option 1, I’ll have the Y connection with a 6” hose going into, then 2 x 4” going into the two ports in the table saw (waste tray flanges)

Could you please clarify while I’d need the level invert?

Thanks mate

Originally Posted by groeneaj

Thanks for all the replies.

Bob- I’m pretty sure I understand what you’re saying. If I go option 1, I’ll have the Y connection with a 6” hose going into, then 2 x 4” going into the two ports in the table saw (waste tray flanges)Could you please clarify while I’d need the level invert?

6" "Y"s come with all three openings as 6"
OR
the two straight thrus as 6" , and a side branch that is 4"

The 4" side branch can connect straight to one of the 4" ports on the cabinet
BUT the other 6" has to be reduced to 4" which is where a 6-4" Level Invert (LI) comes in
You could use short (and I do mean short) lengths of flex to do the connect if it makes it easier.

46Y.JPG

Got it- thank you Bob

Could something like this work?

The 350mm x 75mm

Round to Rectangular Adaptor 150 O — DuctTech | Fans and Low Profile Ducting

Originally Posted by groeneaj

Could something like this work?

The 350mm x 75mm

Round to Rectangular Adaptor 150 O — DuctTech | Fans and Low Profile Ducting

Yep.

You might have to make an adapter because stormwater 150mm PVC is actually nominally 160.3 mm OD and 155.3 ID.

As usual thanks Bob. Would I see any decrease in air flow with the rectangle fitting compared to 2 c 4”. My TS is the biggest dust maker and I’m really trying to fix this.

Cheers,
Andy

Originally Posted by groeneaj

As usual thanks Bob. Would I see any decrease in air flow with the rectangle fitting compared to 2 c 4”. My TS is the biggest dust maker and I’m really trying to fix this.

What size main or trunk line are you using?
If its 6" then the max flow you will get down that trunk is 1250 cfm.

As I said above if you use a 4" port on the OH guard and 2 x 4" ports on the cabinet you will get about 400 CFM through each 4"

If you use a 4" port on the OH guard and a 6" port (or rectangular equivalent) on the cabinet you will get about 300 CFM through the guard and 900 CFM through the cabinet.

This assumes the cabinet is able to breathe ie an equivalent opening or vent is cut in the cabinet opposite the port. Just relying on gas in the cabinet and blade slot does not allow enough air to enter the cabinet so it cannot carry as much dust out of teh cabinet.

3HP DE with a 6” hose coming out of it connected to a 6” line with 6” hose going to each machine via 6” Y connections.

The OH dust port is something I still need to work out but at least this will be an improvement.

Cheers

Originally Posted by groeneaj

3HP DE with a 6” hose coming out of it connected to a 6” line with 6” hose going to each machine via 6” Y connections.

The OH dust port is something I still need to work out but at least this will be an improvement.

Cheers

OK so 6" main and the most that the DC will draw is ~1250 CFM (with clean filters, short length of ducting and well opened up machine) so it doesnt matter which arrangement you use. The rectangular to round adapter will certainly look tidier and take up less room.

Have you got a price for it?

No price yet, I’ll look into that over over the next few days. Now just got to come up with a way to install it.

Originally Posted by groeneaj

No price yet, I’ll look into that over over the next few days. Now just got to come up with a way to install it.

I would make up a rectangular MDF flange that fits OVER the rectangular section of the plastic adapter. I know the intuitive thing would be to make it go inside the adapter but that will reduce the flow.

I would make up the flange as two frames - one like a picture frame (mitred corners would be nice ) that gets attached to the cabinet and the other like a box that is attached to the picture frame.

In cross section it would look like this. If you round over those corners pointed to in teh picture this will maximise the air flow.
Screen Shot 2022-03-13 at 10.28.21 am.png