Thread: 6” dust port in table saw

Know how you feel Andy. My Table Saw was a terrible Dust Devil till I modified it. Now it is wonderful.

I think BobL is on the money.

Bill Pentz recommends a 3" line to the overhead blade guard and a 5" line to the cabinet, but experience suggests three 4" lines will work fine. I used a 4 ' line to the guard, but the transition I made restricts the flow to be about the same as a 3" line. Because I was feeling a bit lazy I ran a 6" line to the cabinet rather than buy 5" flexy and fittings, as well as a transition to connect into the 6" lines in the shed. Dust collection on my saw is now great.

I reckon two 4" lines to the cabinet, or their equivalent, will do a very good job. As we have come to expect, BobL knows what he is doing and is a great source of advice.

I ended up going with the 2 x 4” option. I got two 150mm to 100mm level invert. I also got a floor waste 100mm fitting which I’ll use for the second port (I’ll use the existing 4”).

Hoping to get it done this weekend and will report back.

I’m now leaving towards a 6” port through the door. Much easier for me to do, plus the materials will be much cheaper. The door is 190mm deep, do you see any issues with that? Should I extend it out past the door?


I’m not that concerned about crap dropping to the bottom. I may just put a mdf ramp in to stop that.

Thanks!

Make sure you close the vent in the door or air will just go from the vent up the extraction port . A vent needs to be in the cabinet on the opposite the extraction port.

Can I hijack this slightly please.
with my new table saw arriving this week and planning on the dust removal should I cut a hole in line (parallel) with the blade and add add a mesh grill in front or do it all sideways to the blade?

Originally Posted by Tonyz

Can I hijack this slightly please.
with my new table saw arriving this week and planning on the dust removal should I cut a hole in line (parallel) with the blade and add add a mesh grill in front or do it all sideways to the blade?

I'd give it a month or two at least as if you can hacking up the stock setup they might cause issues with warranty. If you're getting a machine from Carbatec that warranty is handy to hold on to IMO. All I will say is check everything on that saw thoroughly including the flatness of the cast iron tables.

As for the mesh, make sure whatever you go with can't get sucked into the blade if it comes loose or if it does make sure it's not going to cause damage to anything.

If you want to retain the warranty I would not cut into anything but if possible remove said item and put it safely away and rebuild the item and modify that as required.

thankyou both, good points to remember, however which way the dust suck?

I got my 150mm bell mouth port from our goods friends at auto blasts gates Australia.

Before I start cutting holes in the door, could someone please post a picture of how they installed theirs?

I’m thinking of an oversized 150mm hole so the back of the bell mouth can sit flat against the inside of the door. Then flange over the outside to seal it up?

I’ve been looking for a 150mm flange but nothing really stands out. Any links would be great please.

Cheers

Originally Posted by groeneaj

I’m thinking of an oversized 150mm hole so the back of the bell mouth can sit flat against the inside of the door. Then flange over the outside to seal it up?

I’ve been looking for a 150mm flange but nothing really stands out. Any links would be great please.

Cheers

A flange over the top is not needed. If you wanted a seal, some no-more-gaps would suffice.

If you wanted a flange the 150 mm version of this "Floor drain waste " would work.
Screen Shot 2022-04-06 at 5.46.53 am.png
Bunnings used to sell them but I see they are no longer on their website site.
Try other plumbing suppliers.