Thread: $96 Dust Collector Cyclone - work in progress

Hope it works out mebers may be interested in the procedure, I can pretty well garuntee you will void your warranty

Dunno if you'll void the warranty but what you are doing looks very interesting.

My only concern is the power of the unit you are using there - it's 750W or something - do you think it will have enough guts?

Certainly looks the part! Paint it beige, and stick a Jet label on the side!

It is only 1 hp (750w), but it has to be better than my shop vac with a 2 inch hose.

The top will just be another paint tin lid with the pipe sticking through, a spacer (foam?) and maybe a pipe clamp to seal it to the intake. So if the motor dies I can just undo the clamp and send it back to the manufacturer.

I could make a lid with a standard 100mm connector and use the flexiable hose to connect, but I like the idea of mounting the sucker directly on the top of the cyclone.

Where's the input gonna run? Are you going to "merge" it into the side of the top drum to generate the cyclone effect?

Glad you asked that skew, I was just asking the same question. If it comes out of the std outlet it won't have any "cyclone" action left in it, will it?

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

Where's the input gonna run? Are you going to "merge" it into the side of the top drum to generate the cyclone effect?

yes.

I need to sleep on the idea of welding to that really thin body of the tin can or doing pvc pipe and silicone. It was a lot easier welding the top tin can to the yellow cone bit because there was some meat on the folded edge of the tin base.

The welding of the cone (rolled up skin of a car bonnet) to the thin paint tin lid was slow with lots of blow holes. This uglyness is covered in bog (also fills any pin holes) and painted with about 10 seconds worth of silver spray can.

Originally Posted by blackhole

yes.

I need to sleep on the idea of welding to that really thin body of the tin can or doing pvc pipe and silicone. It was a lot easier welding the top tin can to the yellow cone bit because there was some meat on the folded edge of the tin base.

The welding of the cone (rolled up skin of a car bonnet) to the thin paint tin lid was slow with lots of blow holes. This uglyness is covered in bog (also fills any pin holes) and painted with about 10 seconds worth of silver spray can.

A good way to weld sheet metal is to stitch it ,lay out the sheet and drill holes along one edge to be joined ,roll the sheet over and over lap the edge with the holes over the edge of the other side and clamp it in position ,Then you weld through the holes on the top sheet to the bottom sheet .
You have to allow extra for the overlap on each end.


You will need to make sure that the inlet enters the top can in the direction of the blower /sucker .
Have you cut the hole for the inlet ? If not It would have been be easier to do that before you rolled the sheet.
You could make the inlet pipe from sheet metal ,rolled around a piece of pvc pipe .Cut the end and bend it out and rivet with pop rivets and seal it with silcone.

Have you seen Bill Pentz cyclone pages?

http://www.billpentz.com/woodworking...clone%20Design

Lots of info available.

Kev

Yes where's the inlet going, but also are you using a ramp? How log is the extension to the inlet within the cyclone?

I used a 1hp blower and increased the sucking power by taking off the orginal inlet plate and opening up the intake. See here for details, but as Kev suggested, also read up on Bill's site, it's brilliant.

The plywood adapter plate is the way to go.

The factory 100mm inlet is less than 100mm so opening it a great idea.

I did a similar thing with my el-cheapo sucker.

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f200/cyclone-wip-27501

I do like the irony in the top cylinder section being an old wet and dry vacuum barrel

I take it the bottom has been removed? If so so the warranty has certainly been vilaoted on that piece of kit.
Can't see how you'd violate it on the GMC blower

Originally Posted by zathras

I take it the bottom has been removed? If so so the warranty has certainly been vilaoted on that piece of kit.

The wet/dry vac is dead so I cut out the bottom and turned it in to some thing useful.


I spent about $6 today and bought some pvc connectors like in dai sensei's cyclone. This should make it simple replace the metal plate and factory intake with ply wood and paint tin lid.

The paint tin/shop vac/cooking oil containers with lids make it easy to pull apart or swap around.

I made the adapter plate out of 12mm melamine, so I had to spend $1.50 on longer bolts, this is attached to paint lid. The center pipe will be glued into the pvc connector and this will be screwed into melamine allowing me to change centre pipes when I use it on a shorter cone.

Roadside clean up has provided the pvc pipe and purchased a few bends.

I Spent another $50 on 100mm unslotted ag pipe (only needed a couple of meters, but cheaper if you buy the whole roll) to use as flex to connect to machines.

Some more metal got rolled around to form the inlet pipe, welding this to the cone this afternoon or maybe tomorrow. <iframe id="AnswersBalloonIframe" src="javascript:false" style="border: medium none ; z-index: 99998; position: 49 306px; visibility: background-color: transparent; 103px; 49px; margin- 1 margin- 1"></iframe>

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