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  1. #61
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    Finished all the cutting and sanding today, just need to glue the flanges and then Iíll use a flush trimming router bit to open up the holes to the same diameter as the coupler. The arc along the top of the gate is a bit wonky but it works so Iím happy [emoji4]


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  3. #62
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    Nice flange work Dan, although it does use up a lot of valuable PVC sheet. It is probably a bit cheaper to use PVC duct based flanges.

    I also found it easier to assemble the sides (before cutting the holes) and centre board (also no hole) and then swing the centre board over to one side and drill a 1mm pilot hole through all 3 so you have the same reference centre. Then cut the holes and they should all align with each other. If the holes are cut in the sides before assembly then they may not always line up as easily.

  4. #63
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    Default Blast gate gallery

    Yeah itís not the most efficient use of pvc, I think Iíll definitely try making some flanges in future. Luckily I need to make 100mm gates as well so Iíve got enough 150mm circles left over to make a couple of gates at least, cuts out a lot of work too.

    For the next run Iím definitely going to go the printed template route, my old man is a draftsman so Iíll make use of one of the big plotters he has to print out a huge template the size of my sheet. That should cut way down on my wastage.

    Cheers for the drilling tip too!

  5. #64
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    Default Blast gate gallery

    Finished routing and gluing the first blast gate today. Decided to just screw all three pieces to a short of ply and then route them all at once when I was happy with the alignment. Then I cemented the couplers to each side of the gate and put everything back together once the cement had cured enough. Just need to put some little notches at either side to set the open and closed positions, add some cord and Iím done!










  6. #65
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    If the flanges are inserted inside the holes of the BG sides then cutting all 3 holes in one go will leave a step as the slider hole will now be bigger than the flanges. Probably not a deal breaker but it creates less turbulence if the slider hole is the same size as the ID of the flange.

  7. #66
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    Oh no I cut the hole the same diameter as the inside lip of the coupler and then face glue that to the gate, should be a nice smooth transition all the way through.

  8. #67
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    Dec 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by bueller View Post
    Finished all the cutting and sanding today, just need to glue the flanges and then I’ll use a flush trimming router bit to open up the holes to the same diameter as the coupler. The arc along the top of the gate is a bit wonky but it works so I’m happy [emoji4]

    Looks great.....i am just wondering if there will be air leaking through??

  9. #68
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    Not expecting any leaks, both sides of the gate are glued up really solid now and the bolts at the top and bottom keep the three parts of the gate tightly sandwiched together.

    Actually going to do the next gate with just two of the flange rings each side, I used three per side on the first one and now that the cement has cured I can tell itís way stronger than required.

  10. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by bueller View Post
    Not expecting any leaks, both sides of the gate are glued up really solid now and the bolts at the top and bottom keep the three parts of the gate tightly sandwiched together.

    Actually going to do the next gate with just two of the flange rings each side, I used three per side on the first one and now that the cement has cured I can tell itís way stronger than required.
    That sounds good I was thinking that when i get a bit of spare time i will give it a go too. Do you know if pvc can be glued to acrylic??

  11. #70
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    Iíll have to let someone else confirm but I think so. I know you can weld acrylic and pvc together but not sure how well PVC cement works on acrylic.

  12. #71
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    One more question, is yours 150mm?

  13. #72
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    Yep! Going to make some 100mm ones as well but eventually I want to convert as many machines as possible to 150mm.

  14. #73
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    Provided the holes in the flat sections of the sides are smooth and kept flat during installation, PVC works really well as the slider in terms of leaks because PVC is flexible and the vacuum sucks the slider hard up against the hole sealing it of. It may still leak a small amount but the CFM losses are very small.

    MFD gates also work well because it starts out smooth and flat.

  15. #74
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    Not sure about acrylic, It's probably too brittle to use 3mm sheet so it would have to be at least 6mm?

  16. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Provided the holes in the flat sections of the sides are smooth and kept flat during installation, PVC works really well as the slider in terms of leaks because PVC is flexible and the vacuum sucks the slider hard up against the hole sealing it of. It may still leak a small amount but the CFM losses are very small.

    MFD gates also work well because it starts out smooth and flat.
    Good info thanks. My drawing skills are very limited but i will try and draw it out and see where is the best position for the gears

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