Thread: Bristle Guard edges for dust collector hoods and guards

Very interesting. Looking forward to seeing the finished job.

Thanks to Groggy, in this thread for proving links to the Bristle guards

Buy House Door Seals Online, Door Strip Brushes - Online Brushware Products, Buy Brooms & Brushes - Busy Bee
And
Josco Brushes - Dust and Rodent Seal Brushes

As you will see, not cheap

I really like the way you think .

Solved the "problem" of bristles being too long and doubled the asset - brilliant.

Good thinking Bob. I have been frightened off by the price of the stuff but you have just halved it. I have also seen a straight version but it is only found on certain Linfox trailers and I am trying to find a retail source.

Originally Posted by Chris Parks

Good thinking Bob. I have been frightened off by the price of the stuff but you have just halved it. I have also seen a straight version but it is only found on certain Linfox trailers and I am trying to find a retail source.

Where does Lindsay Fox park his trailers at night?

Originally Posted by Chris Parks

Good thinking Bob. I have been frightened off by the price of the stuff but you have just halved it. I have also seen a straight version but it is only found on certain Linfox trailers and I am trying to find a retail source.

Look in those links provided by Groggy above and you will see lots of straight versions.

This one was the one I had given to me

The 100 mm wheel whiskers are $38 a metre.
I reckon you want to be using the ones with either a plastic or ally backing (not galv steel) in case the guard falls onto the saw blade.

These look pretty good and come in H, 45 and F extrusions for different applications
Fairly expensive @ $31/m for only 50 mm of bristle length.

I finally got around to adding the wheel whiskers to my existing TS blade guard.

The implementation is not as tidy as I had hoped mainly because the old (made some 6 years ago) using 1 mm thick polycarbonate sheet (free out of the skip at work) is not symmetrical and adding straight lines of ally to a crooked shaped guard is fraught with probs. Anyway it seems to work OK but not as gutsy as JS's probably because JS's DC is more powerful and his guard has about half the volume of mine. Sometime I will lash out on some acrylic and make a narrower more symmetrical/square guard. The whiskers are easily reusable.



A couple of other shots. In this one you can see my steel railway line fish plate counter weight up against the wall just to the left of the power point above the fire extinguisher


Shot from the other side. When I use the router the flexy comes off the blade guard and goes onto the back of the router fence - that bit works well, but I need some dust extraction under the router table. Under the TS I have 6" ducting that lead to the underneath of the TS. Just before the 6" duct enters the cabinet there is already installed a 6-4" wye and the plan is to take off with the 4" to a hood/enclosure around/under the router.

Very nice job. Looks tidy to me. Like the way you can see through the guard from any direction, and that the guard is big enough to give a clear view ... not obstructed by steel or ally frame or pipe as so many are. Loved the counterweight set-up. If my saw was stationery, I would switch to that. Neat and out of the way.

Yours has a minimum of 4" capacity everywhere, so you should be getting good air volume for the fine stuff, which is the primary objective.

I think you are right ... the Clear Vue pulls a lot of air and there is very little resistance between the cyclone and the saw. Also, my riser is a bit smaller than 4" and as you said the air volume of the guard is smaller, so perhaps this increases velocity a bit ... not sure about that, but it sounds good.

Here is a pic Chris Parkes sent me a while ago. Novel and interesting, but I prefer to be able to see the blade ... in fact I am obsessed about it. I particularly like the nice wide viewing window at the front of your guard. One day I might make my guard a bit wider to increase the size of the front window. It is my only issue ... minor, but there nonetheless.
Overhead TS Guard BRISTLE.jpg

Yeah I saw that pic, Chris posted it on the forum a year or so back, that's where I got the idea from to do the same thing.

I agree about being able to see the blade is pretty important.

Hi Bob,
Been following your thread on DCs and TC overhead collector. Excellent work!
I have two questions.
1 The perspex extension of the hood is four pieces edged glued with epoxy?
2 What epoxy to you use and then draw up into disposable pipette?

Renato

Originally Posted by Renato

Hi Bob,
Been following your thread on DCs and TC overhead collector. Excellent work!

Cheer Ren,

two questions. 1 The perspex extension of the hood is four pieces edged glued with epoxy?

That is the usually method but my Hood is made our of 1 mm thick polycarbonate (PC) that is folded into the shape and then it is aluminium riveted to get it to hold the shape.

PC has several advantages over acrylic
- is less brittle and likely to shatter.
- won't craze as quickly as acrylic although that should not be a problem indoors
- can be cold folded ie at room temperature.
The disadvantage is it is a bit harder to get all square and straight as it is a bit floppy.

2 What epoxy to you use and then draw up into disposable pipette?

I used Diggers Clear Setting Resin (Because that is what I had) but pretty well any resin should work if it is runny enough.