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  1. #1
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    Default Budget level dust exposure measurements

    For some time I have been experimenting with a way for wood workers to check their dust exposure without it; costing too much, requiring too great an amount of time, and the need to develop significant expertise in the area. This rules out devices like dust particle counters.

    At work about 20 years ago we developed a small kit consisting of a small aquarium air pump and a set of small 50c size air filters. Some 200 of these kits were sent around the world to sample air borne dust. We ask the people who we sent pumps, to collect air for a month and just send filters back by mail and they got to keep the pump. Based on this I decided to see if a similar setup could be used for wood workers to measure their own wood dust exposure.

    For wood work all we would need to do is measure the weight of dust picked up on a small filter - sounds easy but there are quite a few complications to consider

    Firstly you need to be able to reliably collect the dust. This requires a cheap efficient filter that will collect dust down to the 0.3 microns. Initially I experimented with a miniature HEPA filter from a robot vacuum cleaner like these.
    The dirty looking one has about 6 months of moderate use and the one below that is brand new.
    These filters are available on eBay for about $2 each
    Rhoombafilters.jpg

    To hold this type of filter I made a filter holder and placed in in a sealed lunch box like this
    The white filter folder plate is 6 mm white PVC screwed and silicon sealed to the sides of the container.
    I have to stress that sealing everything well is important if you want reliable results otherwise the fine dust will want to sneak past the filter and not be captured.
    To seal between the filter and the filter holder there is some soft self adhesive foam rubber - see a couple of pictures further down.
    Rhoombafilter1.jpg

    Here is a side view.
    Its not essential to mount the filter on an angle but it does help prevent the filter from loading up too quickly with dust.
    You can see the air inlet at the top and the exit or suck point at the left (black PE fitting)
    The lid just protects the filter from being damaged but the open PVC spout still allows it to collect air and dust
    BTW that top spout should not be too long as it could influence the result.
    For best results remove the lunch box lid.
    Side.jpg
    It's better to suck than blow air though the filter because sucking can be arranged to help self seal a filter and when a filter is under pressure the air and dust will try and bypass it where it can.

    However, when I tested the robot VC filter it was only about 95% efficient for particles down to 0.3 microns.
    The particle counter is connected to the filter holder and it sucks air though the filter and counts the particles per litre com ingthrough.
    Before and after this I measure the numbers of particles per litre in the shed air and the efficiency is simply the ratio of the filtered to non filtered air
    Testing.jpg
    Interestingly the dirty filter performed slightly better (96%) than the new filter - probably because it was "conditioned".
    95% is still perfectly OK to perform wood dust measurements as it would just involve multiplying all final results by 1/0.95 to get the actual result.

    Anyway I decide to try and see if I could find a low cost alternative with a better efficiency so I decided to use a piece of P2 mask.
    P2 masks cost ~$2.40 at Bunnings plus you can get two filters out of one mask
    To hold the mask in place I made up a small frame in white PVC - in this you can also see the adhesive foam seal on the filter holder plate.
    FILTERH1.jpg

    And here it is with the piece of P2 Face mask material in place
    P2filter.jpg

    This gave efficiencies of between 98.5 and 99.5% for all particles of 0.3 microns or larger which is as good as we will probably get.

    So now we have a simple cheap way of filtering particles.
    Now we need a pump to continually pump a known amount of shed air (with dust in it) through the filter over the entire period of time you are in the shed.

    Compressors, VCs and DCs are too noisy and are also expensive to run. VCs and DCs would also clog the filter too quickly so that the flow would slow down and you would have to stop work every 15 mins or so to measure the weight the filter and clean it out. In some circumstances you might want to do this but my idea is you could come into a shed and turn on a small pump, collect airborne dust and at the end of the session check the weight of the filter and that would be it.

    So a small low cost, quiet pump that collects enough air (and dust) that can be weighed is what is needed.
    Aquarium air (not water) pumps are ideal for this however there are two things to consider.
    Most aquarium pumps blow and we really want ours to suck. As well as holding the filter better against its base plate a "suck" removes the pump out of the way of the air/dust stream. Most aquarium pumps are also quite dirty and put out some dust so you don't want this messing up your measurement.

    So whatever pump you use is should be able to be converted to be able to suck and be reasonably quiet and powerful enough to keep sucking even when the filter clogs up a bit. The other thing is that it should have enough flow to collect enough dust so that it can be weighed.

    The OHS limit for hardwood dust is 1mg/m3 .
    To measure that you have to collect 1 m3 of air and be able to measure a 1mg change in the weight of the filter.
    1 m3 of air is 1000L of air.

    Small aquarium air pumps are in the 2 to 10L/min pumping range, which means it would take 500 to 100 minute just to collect 1 m3 of air.
    A better pump would be in the 20 - 50 L/min range so 50 to 20 minute per cubic meter so during a work session several cubic meters of air could be collected and measured.

    Ideally something like a mens shed or workshop would have two setups, one with a high volume pump for spot or short tests of high dust concentrations, and a slower pump that would collect all day for daily exposure measurements.

    The pump and filter should be placed as near as possible to where an operator works and at operator head height to simulate the air they would be breathing.
    Too high up in the shed would not capture sufficient heavy particles and VV.

    This is the pump I bought to test the mens shed situation out.
    It's supposedly an 85 L/min pump but its more like 70L/min.
    It's s also noisier than I would like it to be and it vibrates so much I mounted it on rubber shocks to a board and I will be placing rubber feet on the board.
    COMPSETUP1.jpg

    The last and very importantly you will need a milligram (mg) balance. These can be bought on eBay for <$20.

    So to summarise this is what you would do

    1) Weigh filter
    2) setup filter and run for known time e.g. 240 minutes
    3) Using the pump flow rate convert the time into volume (m3 )
    4) Weigh the filter to determine how many mg's of dust have been collected
    5) dived 4) by 3) to determine the mg/m3

    The weakest link in all this is the reliability of the flow rate of the pump. This can be measured in a variety of ways, including sending it to me to be calibrated using my air flow gear.
    I feel reasonably safe in not being swamped by requests but I will of course pull the pin on this offer at any time if it gets too demanding.

    I would like to report some measurements but that will have to wait until I go to the mens shed.

    Costs
    1) Lunch box $5
    2) Filters box of 3 $7.20
    3) Pump $20 - $50
    4) mg balance $20
    So all up for ~$80 you could have quite a reliable dust measuring setup.

    Sorry for the length of this post but I wanted to get it all into the one post.

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  3. #2
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    Default

    To clarify in my mind. Are you weighing just the filter before and after? Or the filter box assembly sans hoses and exterior cleaned? I ask because I wonder if any dust would shake off the filter when removed along with dust left behind inside the box.

    I like the idea and will be following this thread.

    Pete

  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by QC Inspector View Post
    To clarify in my mind. Are you weighing just the filter before and after? Or the filter box assembly sans hoses and exterior cleaned? I ask because I wonder if any dust would shake off the filter when removed along with dust left behind inside the box.
    I understand the possibility about the dust falling off the filter and you could weigh the box containing the filter but you will need a sensitive balance that can read to ~ 400 g to do this.
    This is another reason why I wanted to use the mini HEPA filter from the robot vacuum cleaner, because it has pleats that will hold a lot of dust .

    However, our experiments at work showed that for low levels of dust, provided the filter is not roughed up (e.g. creased) the dust stays on the filter.
    The filters we sent all over the world, had their filters and filter holders weighed before loading the filters into the filter holders and being sent away, and then weighed again afterwards and despite being sent back from around the world (in padded post bags) and we found that this was not a problem.
    The sort of air speed I'm recommending for wood dust collection provides an even greater air speed that the word dust experiment so the wood dust particles should have a greater impact velocity and better stick to the filter.
    Never the less, the filters when loaded with dust should be handled carefully and maintained in a horizontal position.

    Unless there is a very high concentration of dust in the air the dust that enters the box will be pulled by the air flow and should be trapped onto the filter rather than in the box itself.
    If you have so much dust in the air that there is visible dust around the filter inside the box then weighing the whole box method is preferred and you may not need as sensitive a balance as there will be so much dust .
    You can of course still weigh the filter and you will at least know the minimum amount of dust you have been exposed to.

    I forgot to mention that any large chips that enter the box and sit on the filter should be removed as this has most likely just fallen into rather than been dragged in by the air flow.
    Our noses point downwards for that reason and having a visible chip on the filter may bias the results quite badly.

    A best case result is to see nothing on the filter. If you live near a major road you may see a grey colour which will be combustion products and tyre dust from motor vehicles. You may need to do some long term back ground dust measurements so that you can deduct this dust from you wood dust measurements. You may need to run the pump for weeks to see anything significant.

  5. #4
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    Thanks Bob. Your efforts to allow interested woodworkers to understand and quantify the air we breathe in our shops is appreciated.

    Pete

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    If we all bought the same pump, bobL recommends a specific one, then run it for N-hours... Would this be better?
    That's not a bad idea, just bear in mind that our previous experiments showed that the flow rates of even the same make/model of cheap aquarium pumps varied by about +/- 10% anyway.
    Also if you already own a pump that you know the flow rate of you may as well use that.

    Perhaps we should all hunt for a pump that has
    1) The ability to easily attach a sucking tube to it.
    2) is at least rated at 20L/min as this means it will collect 1 m^3/hour
    3) not too expensive

    Some Gotchas
    Large capacity pumps that can deliver a lot of air are very noisy. In the documentation on mine they recommend against locating the pump in any sort of living area.
    Diaphragm pumps are generally quiet but few are set up for sucking - for example this one is 2.5 m^3/hour and only $25 delivered but it has no "sucking" spout and would need to be modified.
    Some diagram pumps can be reversed so they suck instead of blow.
    Some pumps look like they have both blow and suck but they are usually water pumps and they pump air all that well - would certainly need recalibrating for air.

    I like the look of this one 38 L/min for $48
    But it would need a 12V adapted and I can't see where the air inlet port is located.

    This one is a small version of the one I have and costs $37.
    If enough people but one I will also buy one and calibrate it but it would still be +/- 100% anyway.

    Anyway keep tossing the ideas around.
    Was supposed to go to the mens shed and do some testing today but had to go to the docs again.

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    I like the look of this one 38 L/min for $48
    But it would need a 12V adapted and I can't see where the air inlet port is located.

    This one is a small version of the one I have and costs $37.
    Bob, those links go to the same pump, the cheaper pump link is incorrect.

    Great idea.

    Mick.

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Optimark View Post
    Bob, those links go to the same pump, the cheaper pump link is incorrect.
    Fixed

    Great idea.

    Mick.
    Thanks

    Forgot to add that this setup would be ideal for wood turners who spend a lot of hours in the same location in a shed.
    For other wood workers who switch between machines and move around a shed a bit more it will be less accurate but still give a better approximation to exposure than nothing.

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    Rather than a sucking pump, which sounds a bit hard to get, what about a normal pump put on the inside of the same Systema container, but bigger. Put the pumps outlet and power cable through a hole and silicone it up?
    Yep - I've done it for a couple of different set ups involving air filtration.
    It can be a nuisance if you want to weigh the filter container to within a few mg.
    A simpler way to do it would be to put this sort of a pump in its own container and connect that to a separate filter container.

    Also, if its in the container, you could wrap it in a towel or insulation to shut it up a bit
    probably OK for a very small (a few W) pump. A 100W pump is <10% efficient so 90W goes to heat - that's like having a 90W incandescent globe wrapped up - thinking fire?
    Any sound insulation would need to be done using the same principles that DC and compressor enclosures utilise.

    put in a mattress inflator/deflator? They can move some serious air, are cheap and quiet: Kookaburra Pump Inflator or Deflator
    Not sure about "quiet" some of them are quite irritating compared to aquarium pumps.
    They move a lot of air so the filter will quickly clog and because can't generate much pressure the flow rate changes and then you have no idea what the actual flow rate is.
    Could be useful for spot testing for a few minutes?

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