Thread: ClearVue CV1700 install

Originally Posted by mwells

3. Build a muffler. I have some 3.5" thick Rockwool left over from insulating. I could use that to insulate the muffler box, which I assume would be very effective. However I don't think I want to blow mineral wool fibers out after going through all this effort to clean the air.

Given the air vents outside I wouldn't worry about the amount of mineral wool fibres that exits such a muffler. The majority of fibres will exit the muffler in the first few minutes of operation. Maybe wait for a windy day or even a breezy day and it will simply blow away. If it still a concern there are many alternatives to rockwool eg old mattress foam, polyester fill from old pillows and cushions. If you have a store nearby that sells cut foam, ask them for a few bags of offcuts.

You could look for a product like Sonopan to use instead of the mineral wool or put it overtop as a liner.

Sound Barrier Technology | Noise Stop Technology | Soundproofing

A similar product sold by the orange Borg.

Access Denied You Aussies can look at it but not buy I suppose but pretty sure you have something like it.

Pete

Thanks for the suggestions, guys.

Mark

Originally Posted by QC Inspector

You could look for a product like Sonopan to use instead of the mineral wool or put it overtop as a liner.

Sound Barrier Technology | Noise Stop Technology | Soundproofing

A similar product sold by the orange Borg.

Access Denied You Aussies can look at it but not buy I suppose but pretty sure you have something like it.

Pete

I really don't know where there is no dealer for that sonopan out here.

so many times i see products like that have really good potential and often wonder if I should email them and see about buying a shipping containers worth.

I searched for "acoustic barrier panels Aus" and found a few you could look into before importing . Some might be dead ends or too expensive but there might be one that would work or you may come across others with more searching.

https://mumblebydesign.com

Acoustic Solutions - Commercial Acoustic Solutions | Acoufelt

Soundproof | Barrierboard Australia | Research

https://www.sontext.com.au

Pete

Bradford sell an acoustic batt.

I have a Clearvue installation in an enclosure about the same size as yours but inside my shed and vented outside.

My take on exhaust noise reduction is to build in as many changes of direction of the airflow as possible and to increase the cross sectional area of the discharge to reduce air velocity and losses.

I built a discharge path as a box made of some scrap framing timber and ply/mdf. The inside was lined with scrap office ceiling tiles then soft material (some insulating batts, old blankets) behind either mesh or pegboard offcuts. A removable panel gives access inside in case of blockage. Exhaust vents outside via louvred flaps (this was the only thing I bought specially and it was a bit expensive...). The cyclone outlet is connected to a curved duct I made from MDF with a canvas connector to mitigate transmission of vibration (overkill). Note that the outlet of the cyclone can point in any direction - it doesn't have to be in line with the inlet.

The result is much better that I expected. If you stand near the outlet you can only hear a soft rumbling and a few meters away there is nothing. It's also very quiet in the shed and I normally have to check the VFD display to see if it's running while tools are in operation. The last photos is after about 8 years of operation. I was a bit late in emptying the bin during a big planing session and the louvres clogged up.

Hope this helps,
Leigh

This is mine, read the entire thread as there are two lots of photos and questions are asked.

Noise Reduction - CV1800 (woodworkforums.com)

Two topics: noise and duct connection

On noise, several of the posts I have read ended with something like, "I could have just used an insulated HVAC duct and that would have been much easier." I really like Ambrosia and Chris's solutions, but if I can do almost as well with flex duct, that seems like a better route.

My plan as of today is I take the 8" (203mm) outlet from the cyclone, and expand it to 10" (254mm) and connect 10", R6 flex duct. Then I put as much of the flex duct as reasonable inside my shed, kind of like a small intestine. It comes in lengths of 25' (7.6m). Then I'll exit through a 10" wall cap of some kind. If the resistance is too high, I can always cut it down. Maybe 3-6m would be enough? The shed itself should be pretty sound insulated, so the more sound I can extract on the inside, the better.

On ducting, I'm connecting the duct between the two buildings. I am using metal 6" ducts because I got it cheap from a cabinet shop upgrading their system.
IMG_20221023_165537.jpg

The right duct is about 6.25" too high. The cyclone inlet is immediately behind the right wall. The space between the buildings is 33". I know it isn't ideal, but it's the best I could do with geography and framing I had. I was planning to use two 90 degree adjustable elbows to make the ducts meet. My other thought was just using a piece of flex hose.

Any other suggestions?

Mark

You don't say what the offset between the two ducts is? If you can fit two 45º elbows with a little bit of straight between them you will have less resistance than the two 90º fittings. Favour the first 45º as close to the shop side as you can to lengthen the straight run into the cyclone as much as possible.

If using flex you want as smooth an inside wall as you can find (maybe a water suction hose) and also cut the shop side duct close to the wall to minimize the S bends. You might want to cover the hose with something to keep the sun from deteriorating it.

Pete

I'd go with two 45º bends rather than flex.

Fitting into a short space can be facilitated using a sliding section of pipe made up from any sort of flexible sheet like this.
joiner4.jpg

I used 1mm thick polycabonate sheet which can be bent cold to make the join, and a couple of SS hose clamps.

I did this to allow for ease of access to / clearing the impeller. Several times I have sucked up rags and this has made it much easier than dismantling the impeller or diucting, but it would work equally as well anywhere in a ducting system. the inside edges of the PVC segments at each end are also slightly tapered to reduce turbulence.

Pete, horizontally the pipes line up pretty well. Vertically, if I make both pipes level, then the one on the right is 6.25" too high (center to center of the two pipes is 6.25").

After sleeping, I figured the ducts out. If I maximize the length of straight pipe between the buildings, then I only need about a 12 degree bend at each end. I assume I can use an adjustable elbow for that since they go 0-90 degrees.

DuctConnectingBuildings.jpg

Bob, I really like your sliding duct. Please don't patent it.

Mark

Originally Posted by mwells

Bob, I really like your sliding duct. Please don't patent it.

It's not original - I saw it elsewhere but cannot remember where.

I have made some progress. As a reminder, I'm installing a Clear Vue Cyclone in a separate building dedicated for that purpose.

I made a dust collection bin.

IMG_0009.jpeg

To seal the lid I routed a 1/2" wide x 3/8" deep groove and put 9/16" x 3/8" EPDM weatherstripping in the groove.

I tested with an incense stick, fixed some holes at the handles and now it appears to be sealed pretty well. (I called a store that sells incense and asked if they had unscented incense sticks and the clerk hung up on me because he thought it was a prank call. But they really exist!)

I got the basic ducting done. The link between the buildings I did with two 22.5 degree elbows and a rubber gasket coupling to allow the buildings to move.

IMG_0008.jpeg

Inside I got the main (only?) line of ducts up. I used the Clear Vue blast gates, which were inexpensive and seem to work well.

IMG_0007.jpeg
IMG_0006.jpeg

To muffle the sound, I'm trying to use insulated HVAC flex duct, 10" in diameter. It comes in 25' sections, so I tested out the whole length.

IMG_0012.jpeg

Using the NIOSH sound meter app, I got 10' from the open door. With no flex duct in place, it read about 95dB. With the duct in place it read about 80dB. At the duct exit, it was still 80dB. I'm hoping that once I get the exhaust outside and I can close the door that the sound reduction will be even more.

Questions:
1. I sucked up some hand plane shavings and they seemed to circle in the cyclone indefinitely. After I fixed a leak, more of them fell out, but some still spun in the cyclone. Is that a sign I have another leak or some other problem, or is that just how it is?

2. For exhaust I was planning to use a 10" wall vent with a damper like this:
Artis Metals | Wall Vent Caps for Exhaust or Intake
I can mount it low on the wall and have shorter flex duct to it or high on the wall and have about twice as much flex duct. Any recommendations in terms of sound reduction?

Thank you all for sharing your expertise.

Mark