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31st March 2016, 08:35 PM #91GOLD MEMBER
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1st April 2016, 10:01 AM #92GOLD MEMBER
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I also picked up a 225mm to 200 mm tapered reducer for my exhaust port. I'm not happy with the way I had to tear and tape the hvac duct to fit over the Clearvue port so will see if this gives me a smoother transition. Cost about $90-
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1st April 2016, 11:06 AM #93.
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1st April 2016, 11:16 AM #94GOLD MEMBER
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I'm not sure if there is a problem, but to get the hvac hose onto the clearvue outlet I had to cut the radial stiffener and tear/ cut the plastic lining of the duct to get it over the exhaust transition. Then I had to tape the tear up and in the process reduced the diameter a bit due to the tension of the tape, leaving a 2-3 cm step immediately after the exhaust transition. I'm thinking this could be creating additional back pressure and possibly increasing the noise levels due to increased turbulence in this area. It could also be fine and this cost / work achieves nothing but it will grate on me if I don't try to improve it.
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1st April 2016, 12:26 PM #95GOLD MEMBER
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Another pic of the planer-thicknesser with modified port and flex hose attached in the thicknessing mode. Just because.
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2nd April 2016, 02:10 PM #96GOLD MEMBER
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Got a couple of things started / done this morning.
Started making the 6" dust port for the table-saw. First step; laminate a few pieces of MDF; about 60mm in total. Then using a little Trammel jig I made for my router I routed out a 160 mm (outer diameter of 150mm PVC) hole about 20 mm deep on one side and 154 mm hole from the other side for the remaining 40 mm or so(to suit the inner diameter of 150mm stormwater PVC)
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2nd April 2016, 02:16 PM #97GOLD MEMBER
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Then I used a large (Radius 31.8 mm) round-over bit to make a bell-mouth entry.
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I needed to make an MDF base for my router to use this bit as it was too big to fit through the standard base opening. I think it's close to 80mm in diameter. It's a monster!!
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And started fitting to the table saw.
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2nd April 2016, 02:19 PM #98GOLD MEMBER
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Also fitted some quick clamps to the bin. $12- for a 4 pack from Ebay. Work well.
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2nd April 2016, 02:38 PM #99GOLD MEMBER
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Dust port required no permanent mods and is completely reversible. I sandwiched some weatherseal between the saw and mdf to seal it. Ran one bolt short to finish!
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PVC piece is just a temporary trial piece. I'll run about a 1m length out before turning up to the top of the table and will then connect / disconnect with flex hose to the drop down as required ( I like to maintain shop mobility to allow for work on cars etc)
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2nd April 2016, 03:45 PM #100GOLD MEMBER
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The bin looks interesting, any details appreciated as people have often asked me about bins and it may help someone in the future.
CHRIS
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2nd April 2016, 06:10 PM #101.
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- Started making the 6" dust port for the table-saw. First step; laminate a few pieces of MDF; about 60mm in total. Then using a little Trammel jig I made for my router I routed out a 160 mm (outer diameter of 150mm PVC) hole about 20 mm deep on one side and 154 mm hole from the other side for the remaining 40 mm or so(to suit the inner diameter of 150mm stormwater PVC)
Then I used a large (Radius 31.8 mm) round-over bit to make a bell-mouth entry.
If the ducting is 150 mm then the "round over" should be 1/4 of that or 37.5mm, but 32mm is close enough, in fact ANY round over is better than none.
One issue with using such large router bits is that it's not recommended that router bits larger than 38mm in diameter (and that's only a 19 mm round over radius) be used in hand held routers (see CARB I TOOL Australia Pty Ltd.:. Safety Tips & Hints) so use a router table if you have one.
That's why I use a WW lathe to make the bell mouths as it it's very easy to turn up both the hole and the right bell mouth curve in a couple of minutes.
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2nd April 2016, 06:26 PM #102GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Chris,
I posted a bit about this a few pages ago. It's a home built special . It's about 150 litres, 500 mm diameter, 720 mm high. Made of three MDF rings clad in 6mm MDF skin and with a perspex window fitted to see the dust level. Took about 6 hours of work but like you say, I couldn't find an off-the-shelf alternative that suited my needs.
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Happy to help anyone out with advice if they want to make one but I feel it's an acquired taste for a bin .
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2nd April 2016, 06:29 PM #103GOLD MEMBER
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2nd April 2016, 07:19 PM #104GOLD MEMBER
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Also hooked up some ducting to the band saw. This is an intermediate solution so that I can get rid of the 2HP Dusty and start on some projects I need to complete. Ultimately I'll run 3x 100mm ducts, make some sort of bell mouth entry for the overhead hose (as well as canting it in towards the cut more), look at improving or replacing the splitter box and probably reduce the quantity of flex.
Also waiting on some hose clamps from Stephen at clearvue.
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2nd April 2016, 08:19 PM #105.
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Dust extraction from a BS is tricky.
The best one I have seen on this forum is this one
Beginner attempt at DC - thanks to forum members
Basically if the "direct under table" duct is well positioned almost no dust will get into the cabinet making all cabinet ports redundant.
The next best place is in front of the front lip of the table as the moving wood drags sawdust around the blade, between the wood and the table forward to drop over the front lip of the table.
The next best place in above the wood just above the freshly open kerf. There is very little visible dust here but lots of fine dust wafting upwards from the cut.
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