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6th September 2020, 01:24 PM #61SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi Paul,
does your dust bin take a plastic bag?
I think it could but I've never tried because I empty it in the paddock and the cattle eat it. As you know, there's a significant vacuum induced inside the collection box. My box is made from 19mm ply and sealed inside with silicone. The inside perimeter of the lid is sealed with 25 x 10mm rubber strip from Clark Rubber.
Dust Collection Box.jpg
I suppose if you could weigh the bottom of the bag down, it might work. The pressure of the cam clips and rubber would probably hold the top OK. Worth a try.
also what did you use as a reducer from the 225mm pvc ducting to the 200mm inlet on the Clearvue?
I had to make an adaptor from a design kindly provided by Fletty. I'll post a sketch when he sends it to me.
also,did you glue your pvc ducting or dry fit and use tape to seal it?
I used Vaseline only on all my connections but now would not recommend it. When I installed the overhead collector on the table saw, I used talc which is much easier to adjust or take apart. All the pipework can be dis-assembled if required. Anywhere gravity might intervene, I added a couple of bolts to the join. Any leakage through the joins, and they are pretty tight, is negligible when you see how much air is drawn through the system.
mick
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6th September 2020 01:24 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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6th September 2020, 02:39 PM #62SENIOR MEMBER
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Paul,
Here's the sketch of the adaptor and instructions courtesy of Fletty.
Inlet adaptor for CleaeVue Max.jpg Inlet adaptor instructions.jpg
mick
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27th October 2020, 09:46 PM #63
hi Glider.....I’ve secured my impeller as per these photos, the instructions stated the taperlock had to be flush with the motor shaft. These look about right to you?
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27th October 2020, 10:02 PM #64.
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- Feb 2006
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- Perth
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Yes they do move, and they move a lot more than one might think.
@ 2800 rpm they "flare" by several mm moving in the directions shows.
IMPELLERFLARE.jpg
I have direct experience of this because I took my impeller out of my housing to swap the motor and then for vibration testing and made up a test housing from 150 x 35 mm construction pine.
details here: Boring out an impeller collar - Page 2
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27th October 2020, 10:35 PM #65GOLD MEMBER
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- Jun 2005
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- Helensburgh
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Just put the duct work together dry and no sealing is needed. If all BG's are closed you will hear leaks but that does not matter. When a blast gate is opened the leaks will reduce if not stop because it is easier to draw air from the machine duct that is now open and any case the Max has so much capacity even if there were leaks they will no affect performance to any noticeable degree. There is an absolute certainty in dust extraction and that is the ducting will be changed several times from the initial installation and you will need to be able to get it apart. Some joints on mine have got a few short screws in them because they are vertical, the floor sweep is one such joint.
CHRIS
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28th October 2020, 05:27 PM #66SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi Tuckers,
I had the same problem with my impeller. See Post #7 and onwards in this thread. Using the bottom of the motor shaft as a datum point brought me unstuck too. It depends on the motor supplied because the shaft lengths can, and do, differ. Somewhere in the literature they refer to the minimal clearance from the bottom of the impeller housing. From memory it was 7mm but please double check.
I managed to loosen the impeller in situ, push it up to above the stated minimal clearance and re-tighten without having to dis-assemble the whole housing. This was done with the VFD unplugged (of course) and blocks of wood under the blades to ensure it didn't drop and trap my hand. I was alone on the farm at the time.
Running the ClearVue without the dust box connected and sealed isn't very good for the motor. It could over-rev, I suspect. The tech savvy blokes can explain the reasons for avoiding this practice.
I'm now back in Sydney with mobile reception if needed.
mick
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28th October 2020, 08:22 PM #67.
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- Perth
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It can't over rev as the RPM is determined by the frequency of the supply, but when the impeller has little or no back pressure on it is when it is capable of moving the most air as there is nothing to hold it back. This means the motor does more work which means the motor it draws more current which can lead to the motor overheating and long term cook the motor. Adding the dust box forces air to come through the cyclone which imposes about a 2" back pressure on the impeller.
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29th October 2020, 12:20 AM #68GOLD MEMBER
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There is a CV cyclones user forum which may be useful to those installing one
Forums - Clear Vue Cyclone ForumsCHRIS
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29th October 2020, 01:36 AM #69GOLD MEMBER
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- Aug 2007
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- Saskatoon, SK, Canada.
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- 1,436
Unfortunately the current activity on the CV forum is quite low. A few questions a month with only a few people responding. CV does have a Photo Gallery reachable from their main page normally but isn't working for me at the moment. This forum is still the best resource I have found.
Pete
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29th October 2020, 07:43 AM #70SENIOR MEMBER
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30th October 2020, 10:39 AM #71Senior Member
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- Beerburrum Qld
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It is difficult to be more precise in the instructions since you have to start somewhere. whilst paragraph 8 says "flush with the tip of the motor shaft the essential detail is in paragraph 9 "when completely tight there should be at least 7mm gap between the impeller and the mounting plate bolt head"
The problem with running a clearvue without the dust box connected and sealed is not the effect on the motor as this is controlled by the input current but rather that it reverses the action of the cyclone so any object picked up by the cyclone will be discharged with force through the impeller. This may damage the impeller and the housing and could cause injury.
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30th October 2020, 01:37 PM #72GOLD MEMBER
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Keep in mind that the instructions are most probably written for a US supplied motor and the motor on our cyclones are supplied here and I think manufactured in China. The length of the motor shaft is obviously important if it is different between the two.
CHRIS
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4th November 2020, 09:48 PM #73
Woohoo.......fired the Max up today, what a machine.........best investment
after programming the VFD and starting low Hz then bought it up to the full 60Hz, hummed nicely.
While it runs at 83db, i do have to say it’s a lot quieter than I thought it would be. My old DC7 ran at 76db so it’s not that much louder
my Exit air runs through the baffle Box and that’s definitely louder but that’s outside and away from our accommodation business so it’s not a worry, plus I still need to insulate the box.
But the suction is awesome, can see why I need to get some mesh on some pipe to stop me losing bits and bobs.
Remote works a treat as does all the ducting, waste bin nice and airtight, but I found tonight when checking it over that the pressure is sucking in the sides of the hard plastic bin..........I’m now thinking of how to re-enforce the bin on the outside to stop this......any ideas are welcome.......or I may have to make some bins out of formply?
so all I need to do now is sheet the room in the MDF I have and the install the acoustic foam, then take another dB reading.
It’s pretty cool watching the dust spiral it’s way down the cyclone
have to say thanks to a few people
Allan and the team at Auto Blast Gates Australia, those gates are awesome, I need a couple more down the track.
Stephen and Karen at Clearvue, we had a few hurdles, not their fault but they sorted them out real quick. great to deal with
Glider, thanks for the chats and help, really appreciated
Cheers
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5th November 2020, 10:58 AM #74GOLD MEMBER
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I wrote this in the other thread but better duplicate the answer here so any future searchers will see it...........
Paul, try opening another blast gate and see what happens to the bin. I have always recommended a duct opening above the primary work area that does nothing more than draw air into the system and thus pulls air that might have suspended dust in it out of the work area. That duct inlet would have a blast gate on it so it could be closed if needed. That idea works for a single user when only one machine can be used but a multi user workshop where multiple machines are used at the same time could find the permanent open scenario a problem because ideally it needs to be closed when more than one machine is in use.
It is not something I have thought about and the automatic BG system adds another dimension to my idea. It would be ideal if that scrubbing BG closed automatically but the scenario is not common and isn't something I have given any thought to. Again adding another curve into the above idea is when the DE automatically closes down after use the open gate idea falls over entirely but up to now and without the automation that issue has not arisen.CHRIS
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