Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 74
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Elizabeth Bay / Oberon NSW
    Age
    76
    Posts
    934

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    I have been think for some time of writing an FAQ on PVC ducting - now that I'm sitting around with a broken ankle and little else to do might be the time to do it
    Now you tell me! For the benefit of others, I encourage you to do so. Sorry to hear about your damaged hind leg.

    mick

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Elizabeth Bay / Oberon NSW
    Age
    76
    Posts
    934

    Default

    "Yeah, rightio Pete, I'll do it" he said reluctantly. But only if I can get to it from the top. Chris Parks has helped me work out how this can be done. I do have a "come along" in the shed but I think it's possible to lift the motor sufficiently with wedges and a rubber mallet. Then I have to remove the impeller housing, i.e. take it completely apart, so I can access the taper lock to free it sufficiently to re-affix further down the shaft.

    Just a note on the ClearVue instructions; while they provide a minimum 7mm dimension for clearance, that's when the impeller is fully assembled. It'd make a lot more sense if they provided a dimension relative to the shaft or better still in the case of variations in motor shafts, from the base of the motor. That'll be my own reference point when I correct the former mistake.

    It's been six months since I've made any furniture so I'm starting to get twitchy.

    mick

    p.s. I can't wait to get back to Canada to chase Walleye & Northerns.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    7,696

    Default

    All they have to do is put a sticker on the impeller speccing the clearance on the bolts. It took me a lot of talking to get a sticker on the impeller housing for direction of rotation.
    CHRIS

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Saskatoon, SK, Canada.
    Posts
    1,436

    Default

    There is a ClearVue Youtube video on assembly of the CV Max. Somewhere around the 4 minute mark she talks about the impeller and around the 6 minute mark shows the positioning of it on the shaft. Does that help clarify positioning of the impeller?

    Pete

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Elizabeth Bay / Oberon NSW
    Age
    76
    Posts
    934

    Default

    Thanks for the link, Pete. I hadn't seen that before. The lady clearly says that the top edge of the taper lock should be flush with the bottom of the motor shaft. In other words, the reference point is on the motor shaft, not on the top of the impeller housing.

    mick

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Katoomba NSW
    Posts
    4,770

    Default

    A word of caution Mick, That reference is for the CV supplied motor in the US. There is no guarantee that the motors we use in Aus have the exact same shaft length.
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    In between houses
    Posts
    1,784

    Default

    So, with regards to these ClearVue things, either I’ve missed something important(most likely), or, you pay the $3358.00 and then you have to assemble the whole thing three times and put it up and down in the shed a couple of times before it works properly? Why?

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    7,696

    Default

    I would use the dimension Cathy gave (1/4") and see where the taper lock is at that dimension. I have been talking to her for years on the phone and never seen her.
    CHRIS

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,758

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by riverbuilder View Post
    So, with regards to these ClearVue things, either I’ve missed something important(most likely), or, you pay the $3358.00 and then you have to assemble the whole thing three times and put it up and down in the shed a couple of times before it works properly? Why?
    Arriving in pieces reduces shipping given it has to come from the US.
    We didn't have any assembly problems at all with ours at the mens shed. The supplied MDF mounting plate for the impeller was a tad dodgy and I complained and got a $100 discount and replaced it with a 6mm thick Al plate which we had loads of donated to us at the mens shed.

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Elizabeth Bay / Oberon NSW
    Age
    76
    Posts
    934

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by riverbuilder View Post
    So, with regards to these ClearVue things, either I’ve missed something important(most likely), or, you pay the $3358.00 and then you have to assemble the whole thing three times and put it up and down in the shed a couple of times before it works properly? Why?
    Well, it's not quite as bad as that. So far, I've only assembled and mounted it once and have admitted to not reading the instructions sufficiently. I freely admit that I struggle when confronted with unfamiliar practical matters; one of the penalties of having a classical education. Fortunately I have mates who can provide good advice.

    In answer to your question, because it's the best. Same with the auto blast gates.

    mick

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Elizabeth Bay / Oberon NSW
    Age
    76
    Posts
    934

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Arriving in pieces reduces shipping given it has to come from the US.
    We didn't have any assembly problems at all with ours at the mens shed. The supplied MDF mounting plate for the impeller was a tad dodgy and I complained and got a $100 discount and replaced it with a 6mm thick Al plate which we had loads of donated to us at the mens shed.
    Bob, you're quite right in saying that it would ship on volume rather than weight. In any event, an assembled unit wouldn't be strong enough to ship safely. I reinforced the MDF plate with a coupe of stringers across the bottom.

    mick

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Saskatoon, SK, Canada.
    Posts
    1,436

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by riverbuilder View Post
    So, with regards to these ClearVue things, either I’ve missed something important(most likely), or, you pay the $3358.00 and then you have to assemble the whole thing three times and put it up and down in the shed a couple of times before it works properly? Why?
    A slight exaggeration but as the others have said it comes in several boxes and isn't all that hard to put together if the instructions are followed. Some people have always griped about having to assemble it, believing it should be a turn key operation and used that to argue in favour of a competitors DC. My opinion being if you are capable of making furniture putting one together isn't all that hard. Lots of the bigger home shop DC's need to be assembled to some degree (unless the dealer does it for you) but most don't perform as well. You could make your own cyclone to Bill Pentz's design (CV's are licensed makers of it) from scratch at trade-off of taking longer to make. You would save at least a grand to balance cost verses time. Now if it really seems like too much to put a CV together bug ClearVue Australia to import the newest CV machine from the US, the all metal Pentz EF5. It is a little easier to assemble but it is also more money. Although I have never seen anything saying why they are making an all metal cyclone that performs like a Max I suspect it is to get a piece of the commercial market. In the US commercial dust collection systems have to meet a specification (name and number escapes me at the moment but I can dig it up if you really want) that includes the construction being fireproof for the entire system.

    mick I went out into the shop and measured the length of the shaft from the mounting face of the Leeson motor to the tip of the shaft. It is about 2 1/2" (63mm or 64mm). It still in the box and there isn't a lot of room in there. Compare that to your Aussie motor and use it as a guide. I don't know if the taper lock on yours is any different than mine being that it is likely a metric diameter and not imperial that fits the 1 1/8" shaft for the Leeson. I'm pretty sure it will be the same.

    Remembering what was said about no dimensions of the cyclone frustrating you, I looked at the Aussie site and when you click on the Max it opens with a basic diagram of the sizes. The one on the US site is a little better if you can process the inches.

    Pete

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Elizabeth Bay / Oberon NSW
    Age
    76
    Posts
    934

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by QC Inspector View Post
    Remembering what was said about no dimensions of the cyclone frustrating you, I looked at the Aussie site and when you click on the Max it opens with a basic diagram of the sizes. The one on the US site is a little better if you can process the inches.
    Thanks Pete. You're quite right. I've never looked at the advertising spiel. Wouldn't you think that the instructions and sketch which came with the machine, might have also shown the dimensions? Bit late now although I'll suggest the inclusion to Clearvueoz. I'll be back on the farm next week ready to fix the faulty assembly. Gotta get back to making things.

    mick

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    7,696

    Default

    IIRC the cyclone body cubes at at an equivalent 90kg for transport purposes.
    CHRIS

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Elizabeth Bay / Oberon NSW
    Age
    76
    Posts
    934

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by QC Inspector View Post
    mick it looks pretty good but I'm in the fix the impeller camp.
    Looking forward to more.
    Pete
    After a week in Sydney, I came back to the farm determined to fix the impeller. As I looked at it with fresh eyes, I realised that I could get my arm up the exhaust shute and between the blades, and maybe, just maybe, loosen and re-fix the taper lock further down the motor shaft. It proved to be a long and delicate operation, a quarter turn at a time, and the whole time fearful of dropping the Allen key or one of the small screws or washers into the bilge. I cut some blocks of timber to put under the blades in case the whole thing fell trapping my arm and also as a guide to the desired new position. After 90 minutes it was all done. BTW, I unplugged the motor just to make sure.

    Now for the acid test. I hit the start button and as it hit speed at 48Hz I started dialling up until the display was at the magic 60 Hz. Hoo-bloody-ray!!! Thanks to Chris & Pete for the encouragement.

    Back to the job of hooking up the rest of the machinery.

    mick

Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Auto Blast Gates Australia is Now Open For Business
    By Chris Parks in forum DUST EXTRACTION
    Replies: 69
    Last Post: 25th May 2023, 05:39 PM
  2. Blast Gates DIY
    By SAISAY in forum THE SHED
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 23rd May 2012, 09:20 AM
  3. 150 mm blast gates
    By BobL in forum DUST EXTRACTION
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 1st March 2011, 07:53 PM
  4. Blast gates
    By mcsblues in forum DUST EXTRACTION
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 16th August 2010, 08:16 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •