Thread: ClearVue installation with Auto Blast Gates

Originally Posted by fletty

There’s a career in proctology waiting for you!

I did whisper a few non-technical proctological words at times.

I didn't say it would be easy but how are the noise levels at 60hz?

Originally Posted by Chris Parks

I didn't say it would be easy but how are the noise levels at 60hz?

That's true, Chris. But it was a hell of a lot easier than lifting the motor and pulling the impeller cage apart. Keyhole surgery, mate. All's well that ends well.

I'd estimate 10% increase in sound emission. I'm really pleased I decided to put it into a separate shed. I still have to complete the acoustic insulation but I still want to hear it running in the background.

mick

Originally Posted by Glider

That's true, Chris. But it was a hell of a lot easier than lifting the motor and pulling the impeller cage apart. Keyhole surgery, mate. All's well that ends well.

I'd estimate 10% increase in sound emission. I'm really pleased I decided to put it into a separate shed. I still have to complete the acoustic insulation but I still want to hear it running in the background.

That's similar to what I observed for the CV at the mens shed.
My DC at home increase by 6%

The router table is now connected. Kreg have a design of their website for an infill in the void under their router table which combines storage consisting of two vertical drawers on each side for router bits etc. and a central cupboard serving as a dust extraction chamber and more storage. I made up the side drawers but modified their design for the cupboard because the storage was minimal after fitting the Triton router. The mod consisted of an angled tray of melamine chipboard leading to the 150 mm dust outlet supported by a triangular piece of 19 mm ply on each side. It just sits rather than being attached inside the space. I'll attach a wooden front and handle to match the vertical drawers. This will essentially work like a drawer to allow me to get underneath to adjust the router when necessary.

Router Storage.jpg

The top outlet on the table takes 65mm I.d. flexi pipe and I decided to drill a hole into the 90 degree 150 mm (yes, I know but that's what I call it) elbow at the bottom and screw the flexi directly into the airstream. Of course, there's an auto blast gate serving the whole system.

Router dust outlets - Rear View.jpg Router Outlets Connected.jpg

This only leaves the jointer/thicknesser and the mitre saw to connect.

More later,

mick

Are there any openings to allow air into the cabinet? With the average table insert being tight to the bit there needs to be some openings so the air can get in to be sucked out. It is like trying to run breathing through a straw, a paper one these days, while running.
Pete

Originally Posted by QC Inspector

Are there any openings to allow air into the cabinet? Pete

Pete, the reason I haven't fixed the front plate to the melamine base yet is to allow me to experiment with venting to optimise the airflow. I should have said that instead of begging the question. I'll report back with some pics.

mick

Good work on the router table.

The limitation on the draw from the outer fence will be the narrowness of the gap slot at the front of the fence.
To get around this, openings in the ends of the fence is worth considering.
Next comes the attachment point to the fence (X in the photo)
This could be improved by an oval bell mount hood , or a hood with sloped sides.
RouterConnected.jpg

Next comes the fence flexy connect to the 6" 90º bend.
Using a Y and a reducer as show will produce the greatest flow.
These can of course be added later.

A bell mouth hood connection to the cabinet would also assist flow from the cabinet

These are all good points. I will modify the instructions to include a dimension-ed drawing. I have not yet obtained a supplier for plastic adaptors and the available metal units are so expensive i did not believe that many would pay. I will obtain a couple and include them in the price list and see what happens.

Thank you for your feed back i am sorry I failed business 101

Stephen

The sliding dust chamber has now been finished after a bit of mucking around with vents to ensure effective cross flow.

But firstly a few observations about the Kreg router table. During the testing phase, the only significant amount of dust was coming under the back of the fence. There's about 1.5 mm of clearance between the lower edge of the fence and the table surface to reduce friction during adjustment. A thin strip of nylon on the bottom edge would have done the same thing, however my quick fix involved placing two square bits of wood cut to length along the crack. A pretty unimpressive design flaw.

Although the front of the fence allows lateral adjustment, it's still 70mm high and the little plastic disc designed to sit above the cutter isn't very efficient. I'm going to have to design something which will reduce the open vent height. That being said, it was gratifying to see a piece of dust 150 mm away from the cutter scoot across the table and disappear up the chute. BTW, the router was turned off at the time.

Dust Chamber Insert.jpg Dust Sliding Insert half open.jpg Router Cabinet Finished.jpg

For all of you with sharp eyes, yes I know I haven't sanded the filler off yet.

The jointer/thicknesser is next cab off the rank but should be an easy one.

mick

Lovely job!

A small improvement to your slots would be to round over the edges with a rounder bit. Bob would be able to say if just doing the outside with a bigger bit is better than putting a radius on the inside and outside of the slot. Basically "bell mouthing" them.

Pete

Originally Posted by BobL

Next comes the attachment point to the fence (X in the photo) This could be improved by an oval bell mount hood , or a hood with sloped sides.
RouterConnected.jpg

Next comes the fence flexy connect to the 6" 90º bend. Using a Y and a reducer as show will produce the greatest flow. These can of course be added later. A bell mouth hood connection to the cabinet would also assist flow from the cabinet

Thanks Bob. Short of making a new fence, I can't see how a BMH could be inserted into the top inlet. This would also preclude adjusting the width. The existing adjustable fence provides useful flexibility when using bits which range in diameter from <5 mm to really scary ones close to 40 mm. I could certainly radius the exterior edges of the existing inlet.

I did consider putting a 45 degree junction above the outlet to the cabinet but decided against it. The hassle of connecting the 63mm flexi to even a 100 mm pipe was a strong influence versus using a 63 mm hole saw. Considering the airflow produced by the ClearVue Max, the odd bit of design crudity seems to have gone unpunished. The bottom cabinet is perfectly clean and there was no trace of dust in the top inlet after I completed an fairly extensive test run.

As Pete has kindly suggested, I will go ahead and radius the slots on the front of the cabinet as much for appearance sake as for efficacy. Testing so far indicates collection of sawdust at >99%. I can't comment on PM2.5 until I buy a measuring device and work with a variety of timbers and cuts.

mick

The Hammer A3 has an outlet about 120 mm o.d. so I had EziDuct make up a metal reducer (expander?) which would accept their 150 mm PUAS polyurethane flexi. Of the connections done so far, this was the easiest although the fact that the dust outlet flips through 180 degrees meant an allowance had to be made to create the right overhead position to suit both ends.

Jointer Thicknesser connected.jpg

Testing the jointer involved taking about 15 x 1mm and 0.5 mm cuts from a piece of 90 x 45 pine. There was no evidence of dust anywhere on the blades or nearby. Once again, time and different cuts and timbers will tell.

Blades after Jointing Test.jpg

Same tests in thicknesser mode. A huge improvement over my old dusty.

Plate after Thicknessing Test.jpg

The last job is the cabinet for the SCMS, the one I've been dreading.

mick