Thread: Cutting Through Garage Wall to Outside DE Shed - Advice

What is the wall construction in the install area? Timber frame / steel frame / rendered masonry?

You mentioned stairs, so presumably a multi-story dwelling. What is in the ceiling cavity directly above the garage in the proposed install area? Battens on roof framing (rafters / trusses) or battens on floor joists? Which direction does the framing run? i.e. rafters / trusses / joists and also battens.

Do you have a copy of the house plans?

The images show a masonry wall up 6 courses with either a plastered finish or some form of framed wall above.

Not knowing the construction makes giving advice risky.

Assuming a framed wall. Determin stud locations adjacent to proposed cutout. Determin proposed top edge of cutout. Drive exploratory nail through gyprock. If nail meets no resistance you can move to the lower edge of proposed cutout and repeat. If resistance is met in either location it is a a quick fix to fill the nail holes and move elsewhere.

Being that you want to cut in a corner, if it is a timber framed wall you might be (un)lucky and find a metal brace.

Recently I was hanging some art work for someone and twice I found the metal bracing. (Two different walls.)

Hi MobyTurns,

Thanks for your reply. In terms of details, I’m not familiar with building language, but below is what I know:

- Wall Construction: The wall is a timber frame. External cladding is brick on the opposing side.
- Ceiling Cavity above Garage: Floor joists with no insulation. The timber floor joists run vertical to the photo. The second photo is easier to see.
- House Plans: No, unfortunately no house plans.

The framed ceiling box, visible on the second photo (top left) is the plumbing for the upstairs toilet and shower. Not sure if that also has an impact on the proposed wall hole, or if there’s other considerations I should consider when installing the ducting.

And good pickup Handyjack. Do you know if a metal brace is secured on the outside of a timber frame or the inside? If it’s the inside, I’m thinking a metal stud finder could possibly detect the metal brace?

You have to put a pretty big hole through so just tap on the wall to make sure there isn't a stud where you want to go then cut a hole 80mm down from the bottom of the cornice and have a look. Adjust your final hole to suit.

Finding the right place to cut the hole in the plasterboard is just the beginning. Removing/cutting bricks on the outside is another challenge. Will the hole in the brickwork be up near the eaves or half way up a two story wall?

Originally Posted by woodlogic

Hi MobyTurns,

Thanks for your reply. In terms of details, I’m not familiar with building language, but below is what I know:

- Wall Construction: The wall is a timber frame. External cladding is brick on the opposing side. - if there is steel bracing it "should" be on the outside of the timber frame for cavity brick construction. That makes it more difficult to determine its location.

- Ceiling Cavity above Garage: Floor joists with no insulation. The timber floor joists run vertical to the photo. The second photo is easier to see. -it may be possible to install the ducting in the space between joists in the ceiling void, again depending upon what is above the garage and what services (sanitary?) may already exist.

- House Plans: No, unfortunately no house plans. - depending upon building era, your local council should have a copy of the "approved plans" or the building certifier who certified the dwelling. If it's a "project house" from one of the larger builders / developers then they may be able to assist.

The framed ceiling box, visible on the second photo (top left) is the plumbing for the upstairs toilet and shower. Not sure if that also has an impact on the proposed wall hole, or if there’s other considerations I should consider when installing the ducting. - yes that must be considered before making a commitment. Best advice is to fully check both sides of the wall. Measure & record all pipework and external features, then transfer those measurements internally making sure to adjust for wall thickness etc. The "ceiling box" may be your best option to install the duct. Run duct over the ceiling into the "box" and come out beside the existing sanitary pipework / vent??

Note the existing sink - there can also be some "strange" installation practices found at times - such as where water plumbing services run on the external face of the timber stud wall in the cavity between the external brickwork. Where do they originate? Where do they run from / to? There is a fair chance it could run through your proposed opening.

Notes added above.

Sometimes the only way to be sure is to "suck it and see" make a small opening in the wall sheeting in the proposed wall penetration location, use a torch and investigate. Aside from the advice above, the next consideration is water-proofing the wall penetration after installation of the ductwork. Insurers love loopholes!

ps I just noticed what I though was a masonry lower wall is actually the tiled splash back.