Thread: Cyclone for 1hp dust extractor ?

If you are buying the compact single bag model, I would go for the regular two bag model instead.
Trying to force the filter bag to do collection duty as well is a bad idea
This drum adaptor is not a cyclone and will not collect much in the way of fines

A 44gal drum as a second stage stage is an excellent idea, many have done it, as I have too.

It has the benefits of increasing efficiency of the dusty and means the heavier chips are collected in the 44gal drum leaving the finer to collect in the bag.

I would forgo the lid from c/tec - I've tried it and it's rubbish, I took it straight back that day and made my own from bits of PVC plumbing.

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f200/w...e-dusty-31635/

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/wa...closure-74857/

But why not go for a 2Hp unit instead?

Originally Posted by Waldo

But why not go for a 2Hp unit instead?

Money, I can JUST afford the 2 bag 1hp.
The 2 hp is an extra $169 (the 1hp is down to $200 so I would be almost better buying two!).
Ebay is out as I live in Tasmania (no chance of shipping down here and anything for sale down here goes for silly prices compared to the mainland).

Chris

That's a fair enough reason.

I'd REALLY recommend you don't get an underbench model if that's the 1hp model you are considering. There are a few old threads around about building a pre separators like Waldo's, that you should also checkout such as https://www.woodworkforums.com/f200/m...arator-103778/ and https://www.woodworkforums.com/f50/wh...l-drums-74159/

Everybody seems to come up with their own particular variation but we all unanimously agree it's a must have addition

No it is the 2 bag one I am after.
The under bench one only filters down to 30 microns, the two bagger does 5 microns.
I was just trying to find out if I put a cyclone device in place will I lose "all my suck"?


Spent today in a fruitless attempt to get my Leigh Jig to cut half blind dovetails, after 5 hours I have finally reacher the conclusion that Makita fixed base routers are unsuitable. Even with the naked eye you can see the bit is off centre.
I will have to sell them and buy a decent router.
To mak ematter wors the old household vacum I use as a shop vac died for a while and I ended up almost ankle deep in pine spilinters.

One good thing about the delay with may order is thet if the order takes any longer than a another week to fill I may have enough saved for a 2hp. Or a 2hp and a cheepo shop vac. I always manage to get this sort of spending past SWMBO.

Chris

Can I ask what the router model is? I have an old 3601B that I use in my own dovetail jig and I fitted it with a Vermont American baseplate. The trick for me was to use a reverse cone centering tool to ensure the guide bush was concentric with the collet before fully tightening up the baseplate screws. I can E-mail you a picture if you like. I deliberatley chose this model for my jigs because I find fixed base routers are more stable on jigs, plus the D handle just makes it feel easier to use when slipping it in and out of the comb.

Perhaps you could re-align your existing baseplate to the collet? Try altering the baseplate securing screw holes so that you get enough play to centralise the guide bush.

Oh, can't help you with the dust extractor problem though other than to say that the whole purpose of the cyclone bit is to reduce the amount of dust that gets into the filter bag, thus allowing full air to pass through the filter and therefore full "suck" at the other end. You will lose a tiny bit of airflow buts that's because every extra bit you put into the system adds friction. It's the same principle that Dyson use in their vacuum cleaners; the inventor actually got the idea from a workshop cyclone dust extraction system. BTW, only Dyson can use a cyclone in a vacuum cleaner; the hundreds of "bagless" models that have followed have just swapped the filter bag for a pleated paper filter. They still clog just as fast but now they can claim to be bagless I'm actually looking for a busted Dyson to steal the cyclone out of for my own workshop vac!

Pics would be great.
I love the fixed base routers and really want to make them work.

The router is a 3601b and I have tried a 3608b both with the same results.
I centre the bit over the collet but as soon as I lower the bit I it goes off centre.
The problem seems to be the lower section of the router is so loose that whenever it is moved it goes off centre.

Today was a disaster, not only was the router out of centre but I had massive problems keeping the wood clamped down it kept going for a wander mid cut.
Add to that as I got more stressed I would forget to tighten one clamp of another or the depth adjustment which seemed to keep slipping when I flipped the board.

A real comedy of errors.


Chris

Here's how I do mine:

Pic 1 shows my dovetail jig, the router and all the bits including the original baseplate. The Vermont American one is already fitted to the router.

Pic 2 is a closer look at the parts, on the left are my two "reverse cone" centering tools; one 1/4" and one for 1/2" collets

Pic 3 shows the 1/4" centering tool proud of the guide bush at this time, the router body locking clamp is just barely touching and the router body is sitting squarely on the fine adjustment ring. The 3 locking screws for the template guide bush are also just barely nipped up, allowing the bush to move around a smidgeon.

What I do then is rotate the fine adjustment ring until the cone just barely touches the edge of the guide bush. I then lock the router body and then tighten up the guidebush securing screws; as per pic 4.

Finally I slacken everything off and remove the tool. Pic 5 shows the 1/4" reducing collet deliberately sticking out of the chuck to show that it is still concentric with the guide bush.

Now, the main point to remember with this is to take up as much backlash and clearances as possible, hence I have the body locking clamp weakly nipped up. All adjustments are carried out with the fine adjustment ring to ensure at least one plane is constant.

Seeing as you're using your router on a Leigh jig you're probably using the original baseplate with a screw on insert. Does the eccentricity between the collet and the guide bush remain constant, eg it's always closer to the same side? What I suggest is this: put the biggest router bit you can fit through the guide bush in the chuck and adjust it until it's level with the bush edge (like I have in pic 5) using the adjustment ring and slightly nipping on the lock. Then lock the body fully. Slacken off the baseplate securing screws a tadge and move the baseplate until the bush is concentric with the router bit all the way round. You may need to adjust the holes in the baseplate slightly (I had to on the Vermont American one). Then, slacken off the locking clamp and move the body up and down a few times. Re set the bit within the bush again, always using the fine adjustment ring. You may have to repeat this process once or twice.

Having done that I was left with repeatable concentricity of less than 0.2mm runout in any direction. Prior to taking the photos it was out less than 1/2mm and that was good enough for my jig, but to ensure I wasn't talking completely out of my bottom I went through the whole process again to get the best it was possible to get with my machine. Pic 5 seems to show the collet slightly closer to the top left side of the bush, this is due to shadow.

Let me know how you get on!