Thread: DC enclosure and ducting set up

Thanks, Bob, those catches are exactly what I was looking at as they're available at my local Bunnings. It's good to know they work well. When I close the door the seal touches top and bottom with a gap of around 2-3 mm in the middle somewhere, around where the catch will go. So hopefully the toggle action would have enough pulling power to close that gap, and that's also where the fine adjustment comes in handy.

I like the look of that fridge catch also, QC, especially as the whole thing is starting to look like a giant freezer. One problem may be I didn't put enough extra timber in the door to support the handle mechanism, so ideally the mechanism has to screw/bolt to the end/edge of the door. On the other hand it would probly be easier to open the door with the freezer handle as opposed to a toggle arrangement.

I ended up going with this toggle latch from Bunnings. It pulls the door tight nicely. It was a very close fit on the side of the door and I ended up right on the limit of the adjustment which is just enough.

I had to weld the keeper onto an "L" bracket to make it all work. Dusted off the old oxy/LPG torch and it's a horrible weld but amazingly it seems to work.

Great work - how's the noise?

That came out well. If you need a touch more adjustment too can recess the catch into the frame.

Pete

Originally Posted by BobL

Great work - how's the noise?

I haven't checked the noise levels yet Bob, still a few things to do. I have to seal off the bottom of the door where it closes onto the edge of the slab, which is a bit back from the fibro cladding. I'm thinking of just siliconing a bit of firo onto the edge of the slab to bring it out even with the cladding. I put in the batts yesterday arvo, pics to follow.

Originally Posted by QC Inspector

That came out well. If you need a touch more adjustment too can recess the catch into the frame.

Pete

I thought that too, QC, I'll see how it goes and if I just cut the cladding away behind the catch I pick up 4 or 5mm which would be plenty.

Spent some time yesterday installing the insulation and fitted the channels ready for attaching gyprock.

I installed the gyprock sheeting. A heavier lining material would have been preferable but gyprock is cheap. I can always add some thick carpet or something if needed later.

I've left off the side sheet until I've done the DC mods so I can see how much room I've got for the baffle box. I might need to install some extra fixing points before sheeting. It's going to be tight.

Made a start on the DC mods. Made a template for the curve on the side of the round bit with 3mm MDF and transferred it onto the plywood transition piece. It's great having the photos from Bob and Jonno's conversion to refer to.

very well done, you have a good eye for a curve

very well done, you have a good eye for a curve

Thanks, Tonto. Thanks, Tonto

Made a bit more progress. I screwed the flange onto the transition piece, then bolted it onto the side of the DC to mark out where to drill the holes. Couldn't really get any screw holes at the top because of the cone inside but it turned out very solid with the screws as shown.I'll probably use silicone to seal it onto the side which will add some strength also.

Got it all screwed and bolted on then marked out the hole to be cut out. Removed the transition again and cut out the hole, then bolted and screwed it on again.

Made up a temporary support stand to hold the motor and impeller in place so I could do a test fit of the flange and also work out how to support the motor properly. The motor is pretty heavy.

clever idea with your motor stand. I got local steel guy make a stand out of 3mm x 50 sq tube sitting on a 3mm galv flat plate. ,gawd that set me back.

Originally Posted by Tonto

clever idea with your motor stand. I got local steel guy make a stand out of 3mm x 50 sq tube sitting on a 3mm galv flat plate. ,gawd that set me back.

The stand shown is just temporary. I couldn't visualise the set up properly and I wanted to get it all in place so I could take measurements and check it all fitted together. I'm going to make a timber version of your stand which will probably end up looking really bulky but hopefully will still do the trick.