Thread: DC enclosure and ducting set up

I think I would have put bigger casters on one end of the cart. I don't have an OCD issue though.

Pete

Originally Posted by QC Inspector

I think I would have put bigger casters on one end of the cart. I don't have an OCD issue though.

Pete

Haha yeah I didn't think of that. I tried to convince myself it didn't matter, no one will see it, it's only a dust extractor etc, but in the end I couldn't leave it. I feel better now.

Why didnt you put the impeller on the other side, deleting the existing hole, and therefore having the inlet facing downwards?

Perhaps you're adding ducting from the roof?

Originally Posted by woodPixel

Why didnt you put the impeller on the other side, deleting the existing hole, and therefore having the inlet facing downwards?
Perhaps you're adding ducting from the roof?

It's a bit easier to hard plumb in from above than underneath and my guess is most folks would be coming down a wall or down from the roof anyway.

The existing hole has to still be cut open a bit more and blocking the existing one one is a doddle with a piece of sheet metal, pop rivets and some silicone.

When I did the initial mods I tried mounting it with the motor on top but it's already unstable enough with the motor underneath let alone with the motor is on top. It's not that big a deal if the whole shebang ends up in an enclosure but if there is still a possibility it will be moved from time to time anyway its much safer with the motor underneath

There is an option to use the existing hole in the bag housing with the motor underneath (RHS) but then you end up If the motor goes on top then you would end up with the arrangement on the RHS.
As well as throwing the whole thing out of balance and requiring further modification to the trolley the air/dust circulation is reversed and this will impede the air flow.

Also, Yes Woodpixel, the ducting will go up through the roof of the enclosure and across into the roofspace of the shed.

Just about done with the DC mods. Side view shows the timber stand to support the motor. I put three coach bolts through the base up into the vertical riser. It's fairly solid now but I think I'll put some bracing on the side of the stand to stiffen it up a bit more.

I've made up the impeller inlet plate ready for the 150mm pipe to go in. Bob recommended a 37mm radius bell curve on the inside of the plate but my largest radius router bit is only half inch so that will have to do. The base plate is 12mm ply with a hole matching the inside diameter of the duct pipe. I then glued a ring in 18mm thick MDF onto the base plate with a hole matching the outside diameter of the pipe.

Originally Posted by 3 toed sloth

I've made up the impeller inlet plate ready for the 150mm pipe to go in. Bob recommended a 37mm radius bell curve on the inside of the plate but my largest radius router bit is only half inch so that will have to do.

Anything is better than nothing and if you eventually find s 37 mm roundover you can always go back and do it alter.

Or take a rasp and sandpaper and shape it by hand.

Pete

Originally Posted by QC Inspector

Or take a rasp and sandpaper and shape it by hand.

Pete

Or if you have one, a convex spoke shave

Originally Posted by QC Inspector

Or take a rasp and sandpaper and shape it by hand.

Pete

I did this, but first I took the bulk of the waste material out with the largest 45° router bit that I had. Was very easy.

I don't have a rasp although I am amazed by the things people do with them, but I do have a convex spokeshave. Not sure how neat I can do it with a spokeshave, how perfect does the radius need to be?

To be honest, I didn't use a rasp. After taking out the bulk with the router, I sanded most away with a flap disc on the grinder and did the final smoothing by hand. It's not perfect, but pretty good. I'd imagine that a not quite perfect 37mm radius would be better that a perfect 12mm radius.

Yeah,CJB, I take your point. I do sometimes get a strong urge to take the quick and easy route to just get this project finished so I can get back to making some furniture, but thanks for nudging me in the right direction. I'll have a go today and see how it turns out, my future self will thank me.

Finished the DC mods today. Started by adding another layer of plywood to bring the thickness up to around 38mm for the bell curve radius. I made a simple radius template to check my progress.

I routed away most of the bell curve with a 45 degree router bit as suggested by cjb, and then used a sanding cylinder in the cordless drill to finish the job. I then added another layer of MDF to receive the 150mm riser/pipe. It was all a lot easier than I thought it would be and I'm really happy with the result.

I sealed off the old hole from inside with some polycarbonate sheet I had lying around as I didn't have any sheetmetal. Finally added some bracing at the bottom of the motor support stand and it's now rock solid which is good because I will be moving the DC in and out of the enclosure every time I need to empty the bag etc.

Thanks to BobL for working all this stuff out, it's a brilliant idea and I've wanted to do this for years.