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Thread: DC enclosure and ducting set up
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19th May 2019, 09:25 AM #31
Had a bit of a struggle yesterday.
Started on making the stand to support the motor. When I bolted the upright onto the motor base I realised the motor and impeller weren't level. I'd been so engrossed doing the individual steps I forgot to make sure it all ended up straight and level. You know that sinking feeling when you think you're going okay and then you're not?
So after much grinding of teeth and cursing I figured out a way to fix it. Firstly I tried to loosen the bolts holding the filter housing, hoping to just tilt it back to level, but the bolt holes are pretty snug. So I had to take my medicine and pull things apart. I seperated the flanges and unscrewed the flange from the transition piece, then marked and cut the front of the transition piece while still attached to the filter bag housing, then reattached the flange. Put everything back together and I'm pretty happy with the result.
The upright of the stand is now a bit short but that's easily fixed, that's tomorrow's job.The time we enjoy wasting is not wasted time.
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19th May 2019 09:25 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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19th May 2019, 09:40 AM #32GOLD MEMBER
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I think I would have put bigger casters on one end of the cart. I don't have an OCD issue though.
Pete
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19th May 2019, 11:04 AM #33
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19th May 2019, 11:09 AM #34
Why didnt you put the impeller on the other side, deleting the existing hole, and therefore having the inlet facing downwards?
Perhaps you're adding ducting from the roof?
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19th May 2019, 11:41 AM #35.
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It's a bit easier to hard plumb in from above than underneath and my guess is most folks would be coming down a wall or down from the roof anyway.
The existing hole has to still be cut open a bit more and blocking the existing one one is a doddle with a piece of sheet metal, pop rivets and some silicone.
When I did the initial mods I tried mounting it with the motor on top but it's already unstable enough with the motor underneath let alone with the motor is on top. It's not that big a deal if the whole shebang ends up in an enclosure but if there is still a possibility it will be moved from time to time anyway its much safer with the motor underneath
There is an option to use the existing hole in the bag housing with the motor underneath (RHS) but then you end up If the motor goes on top then you would end up with the arrangement on the RHS.
As well as throwing the whole thing out of balance and requiring further modification to the trolley the air/dust circulation is reversed and this will impede the air flow.
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19th May 2019, 03:20 PM #36
Also, Yes Woodpixel, the ducting will go up through the roof of the enclosure and across into the roofspace of the shed.The time we enjoy wasting is not wasted time.
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20th May 2019, 04:40 PM #37
Just about done with the DC mods. Side view shows the timber stand to support the motor. I put three coach bolts through the base up into the vertical riser. It's fairly solid now but I think I'll put some bracing on the side of the stand to stiffen it up a bit more.
I've made up the impeller inlet plate ready for the 150mm pipe to go in. Bob recommended a 37mm radius bell curve on the inside of the plate but my largest radius router bit is only half inch so that will have to do. The base plate is 12mm ply with a hole matching the inside diameter of the duct pipe. I then glued a ring in 18mm thick MDF onto the base plate with a hole matching the outside diameter of the pipe.The time we enjoy wasting is not wasted time.
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20th May 2019, 05:14 PM #38.
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21st May 2019, 12:40 AM #39GOLD MEMBER
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Or take a rasp and sandpaper and shape it by hand.
Pete
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21st May 2019, 08:40 AM #40.
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21st May 2019, 08:45 PM #41SENIOR MEMBER
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21st May 2019, 08:46 PM #42
I don't have a rasp although I am amazed by the things people do with them, but I do have a convex spokeshave. Not sure how neat I can do it with a spokeshave, how perfect does the radius need to be?
The time we enjoy wasting is not wasted time.
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21st May 2019, 08:49 PM #43SENIOR MEMBER
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To be honest, I didn't use a rasp. After taking out the bulk with the router, I sanded most away with a flap disc on the grinder and did the final smoothing by hand. It's not perfect, but pretty good. I'd imagine that a not quite perfect 37mm radius would be better that a perfect 12mm radius.
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22nd May 2019, 07:42 AM #44
Yeah,CJB, I take your point. I do sometimes get a strong urge to take the quick and easy route to just get this project finished so I can get back to making some furniture, but thanks for nudging me in the right direction. I'll have a go today and see how it turns out, my future self will thank me.
The time we enjoy wasting is not wasted time.
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22nd May 2019, 07:36 PM #45
Finished the DC mods today. Started by adding another layer of plywood to bring the thickness up to around 38mm for the bell curve radius. I made a simple radius template to check my progress.
I routed away most of the bell curve with a 45 degree router bit as suggested by cjb, and then used a sanding cylinder in the cordless drill to finish the job. I then added another layer of MDF to receive the 150mm riser/pipe. It was all a lot easier than I thought it would be and I'm really happy with the result.
I sealed off the old hole from inside with some polycarbonate sheet I had lying around as I didn't have any sheetmetal. Finally added some bracing at the bottom of the motor support stand and it's now rock solid which is good because I will be moving the DC in and out of the enclosure every time I need to empty the bag etc.
Thanks to BobL for working all this stuff out, it's a brilliant idea and I've wanted to do this for years.The time we enjoy wasting is not wasted time.
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