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  1. #1
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    Nov 2009
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    Default DC setup plan for comment

    Hi folks

    I have finally decided it's time to get serious about dust control in the workshop. I've been wood working for a few years now and after doing some reading around on various sites have become concerned about possible heath effects of dust exposure (besides brown snot isn't all that attractive), furthermore I have recently finished renovating the remaining part of under my house that adjoins the workshop and SWMBO isn't all that inpressed with the coating of fine dust everything is getting. So I've been doing a fai bit of lurking here in the dust forum and picking up what info I can and have come up with the following as a first draft for comment by those more knowledgable than myself. Big thanks to all the regulars, in prarticular BobL whose posts have formed the basis of this.

    So from the attached plan (which I've just noticed has a few things not quite in the right place but good enough for a rough plan) you can see that the workshop is about 5m x 6m in size. Mostly it is used for turning but of late I've been getting into a bit of box making and the like. The proposed system is:

    1. DC - I'm currently considering a DC-7 from Hare and Forbes. This is the only 3HP diusty that is within my budget. I realise that it will not give anywhere near the 2300cfm it advertises but I figure if I can get 50% of this I'm doing ok. The DC will be located in a weatherproof enclosure outside the workshop with the ducting passing through the exterior wall. An interesting thought that has occured to me is that if its possible to assemble the motor and impeller houseing inverted from how it is shown in the pics then the height will probably be close to the height of the ducting as it passes through the wall. I realise some sort of support would have to be constructed to hold it but if this is possible and the ducting can run straigth into the impeller then that saves 2 90° bends and this has to be good. The impeller housing would be modified to take 6" ducting. There are no neighbours on this side of the house but as a lot of my turning is done at night and my two kids get very grumpy if they are woken up I'll be doing my best to reduce the noise emmited from the DC enclosure.

    2. Ducting - This will be 6" ducting and will run across the bottom of the overhead floor beams. Points marked 1-4 on the diagram are wyes. Points 1 and 3 would branch horizontally to run to different work areas. 2 would run downward into as gentle a bend as I can manage to end up running down the concrete post between the table and bandsaws, to service these two machines. 4 would be to service the various portable macines that get used in the open area in front of the lathe. The end of each branch would curve down 90° to come down to the bench , lathe and other equipment.

    3. Machine ports - All of my current equipment either has no ports or ports that are so small / poorly designed that I'll be modifying all of the equipment to take 6" ducting (or in the cae of the bandsaw multiple 4" ducts) For this I will be shamelessly copying much of what John Samuel has been doing over the last few months.

    So that's the initial plan and at this point I'm only at the design costing phase. Once I'm happy with it I then have to get it past the misister for finance ( the fact she's about the dust my help here ).

    So if anyone can see major (or even minor) flaws in my thinking, nows the time for me to sort it out.

    cheers
    WH
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    I don't suffer from stress, but I have been told I'm a carrier

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Saskatoon, SK, Canada.
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    Arrow Good thinking!

    Quote Originally Posted by wood hacker View Post
    An interesting thought that has occured to me is that if its possible to assemble the motor and impeller houseing inverted from how it is shown in the pics then the height will probably be close to the height of the ducting as it passes through the wall.
    I have a similar machine and looked at doing something along the same lines. On mine it would entail removing the castors and bolting to the ceiling, in your case the enclosure, bottoms up, perhaps with rubber mounts between the base and ceiling. The only other thing needed would be to remove both of the bag rings at the 8 bolt flanges and turn them over, maybe putting them on the opposite sides for wall clearances. That way the shallow cones in the ring are the right way around and the filter bags are on top and the plastic bags are on the bottom again.

    Pete

  4. #3
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    Nov 2006
    Location
    Rockhampton
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    62
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    Default

    Hi WH, from the plan there what you are propsing looks ok, one thing stands out tho, machinery positioning, I would be trying to position all the dust making machines/operations closest to the DC end of the shed, less pipe/fittings, also, you have a large door at that end that could be opened and some forced ventilation (large fan) would be good in the far shed wall bringing in fresh air giving good cross ventilation.



    Pete

  5. #4
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wood hacker View Post
    .
    .
    .
    An interesting thought that has occured to me is that if its possible to assemble the motor and impeller houseing inverted from how it is shown in the pics then the height will probably be close to the height of the ducting as it passes through the wall. I realise some sort of support would have to be constructed to hold it but if this is possible and the ducting can run straigth into the impeller then that saves 2 90° bends and this has to be good.



    The rest looks OK.

    Cheers

  6. #5
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    May 2012
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    Default

    WH,

    Looks pretty good to me. Apart from the comments already made I would add only a reminder to keep your blast gates close to the mains. That was a novice mistake I made. Fortunately it took only minutes to fix.

    Pleased to hear you are going to upgrade the machine ports. I approached that job with some trepidation, but whilst it got a bit fiddly in places, it was never difficult.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    Not far enough away from Melbourne
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    4,204

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wood hacker View Post
    Hi folks

    I have finally decided it's time to get serious about dust control in the workshop....

    ...So if anyone can see major (or even minor) flaws in my thinking, nows the time for me to sort it out.

    cheers
    WH
    Hi Woodhacker,

    Items 1, 2 and 3 look pretty good, but then theres the one everyone seems to forget - 4. 240v power supply.

    You may have considered it but you did not mention it and it does not appear on your diagram.

    How many separate power circuits do you have access to in your work area? You may have many power points, but chances are that they are all on the same circuit.

    I notice that the dusty you have chosen is wired up with a 10 amp plug, so it can be plugged in to a regular power point. This is unusual for a 3hp-rated motor. They will normally be fitted with a 15 amp plug. All the same once you have that dusty running on a 10 amp circuit, it will be drawing a lot of current and you would not want to be running ANYTHING else at all on that circuit.

    Look at the other machines that you will be running concurrently with the dusty. Chances are that your tablesaw and possibly your bandsaw are at least 2hp. Depending on the size of your lathe it may be say , 1 1/2 hp. Do you turn the lathe off when you start the bench grinder to sharpen a tool mid-task? Do you have a compressor that may kick in at anytime if the pressure gets low?

    I think you can see where I am going with this. With just the lathe and grinder going and a compressor kicks in well you have a good chance of throwing a circuit breaker already on a single 10 amp circuit, before you even look at chucking another 3hp motor into the mix for the dusty.

    If you have access to two circuits then you are still running close to the limits. Although fixed lighting will be on another circuit and wont contribute to the problem, any light you plug into a power point to provide additional lighting to a work area, such as over the lathe only makes it worse.

    Just to make it even more interesting, often the circuit passing through the garage is shared with part of the house. What are mum and the kids going to think if every time you blow the circuit breaker the TV goes off, or you lose internet, or all the power goes off to the kitchen, or, or, or....(several scenarios).

    Even modern houses being built today do not have enough power outlets and circuits to allow for the number of electrical appliances everyone uses today. That is why there is a pallet of powerboards next to the register at every bunnings store.

    In my garage, I am far better off powerwise than most. I have a single 15 amp powerpoint in the meter box just out the front. The garage has its own sub-board with two circuits; one with one 10 amp power outlet but a 16 amp fuze, and a 10 amp circuit with eight power points spread around the shed. I can also tap into another circuit that has an outdoor power point in the pergola area just outside the side door of the garage.

    With all that at my disposal, because I have four 15amp machines and another three that are borderline limit on 10 amp plugs, I have had to compromise on the dusty and run a 2 hp unit.

    Woodhacker, you may have sufficient power to run all that you want to run and if so - great! but on percentages, most houses do not. Please consider this if you have not already done so before committing to a course of action. Getting the electrics upgraded to accommodate equipment you have already bought could be more costly than you think.

    Doug
    I got sick of sitting around doing nothing - so I took up meditation.

  8. #7
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    May 2012
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    Default

    WH,

    Doug makes a valid and important point. My 4 HP cyclone was fine ... until summer. I needed to have a 15 amp circuit put in for the cyclone.

    The first quote I got for this circuit was for $2,000. Sharp intake of breath.

    Eventually, I used Prestige Power, who have a fixed price of about $630 for a new 15 amp circuit. The bloke who put it in upgraded the cable to the shed while he was there ... at no extra cost.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    Not far enough away from Melbourne
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by John Samuel View Post
    Eventually, I used Prestige Power, who have a fixed price of about $630 for a new 15 amp circuit. The bloke who put it in upgraded the cable to the shed while he was there ... at no extra cost.
    That was a very good price John. You did well. I know of people who have worked themselves into $5000 bills just because they did not consider power supply at the planning stage. And it is a good point you raise too John, if you set it all up in winter then the family turns on the Air Conditioning in Summer, instant upgrade needed

    Doug
    I got sick of sitting around doing nothing - so I took up meditation.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Oxley
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by doug3030 View Post
    Hi Woodhacker,

    Items 1, 2 and 3 look pretty good, but then theres the one everyone seems to forget - 4. 240v power supply.

    You may have considered it but you did not mention it and it does not appear on your diagram.
    A very valid point Doug and one I had already considered. Where the DC is to be situated is about 10 feet from the main switchboard on the outside of the house. This switchboeard needs to be upgraded / replaced for us to finalise the renovations next to the workshop and when the sparky is doing that I'm going to get him to run some new circuits into the workshop (1 x15amp and 1x 10amp) as I only have the one 10 amp ciruit in the workshop at the moment. I was also going to get him to run a dedicated circuit for the DC which can be turned on and off from inside the workshop.

    cheers
    WH
    I don't suffer from stress, but I have been told I'm a carrier

  11. #10
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    May 2010
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    Not far enough away from Melbourne
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wood hacker View Post
    ...I'm going to get him to run some new circuits into the workshop (1 x15amp and 1x 10amp) as I only have the one 10 amp ciruit in the workshop at the moment. I was also going to get him to run a dedicated circuit for the DC which can be turned on and off from inside the workshop.
    I am pleased that you considered that WH, as i said I have seen lots of grief because people have not.

    However, you will probably find that your 3hp dusty will be fitted with a safety/zero-voltage cutout switch. this means that if you turn the power of the the power point from inside the shed you will still need to go out to the dusty and reset the safety switch each time you want the dusty to run. Either that or do a mod and relocate the safety switch from on the machine itself onto the wall of the workshop (or cut it out all together - not recommended). It is not difficult to do if you know how, but possibly something else for the sparky while he is there?

    Doug
    I got sick of sitting around doing nothing - so I took up meditation.

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