Thread: Dust Collection Install - WIP

Hi everybody, not that much progress on the dusty enclosure this weekend with the wet weather. However, my ducting inside the shed is almost complete and I'm getting to machine specific ducting. The first two will be my drill press and belt and disk sander.
Is anybody willing to share their pics of how they have ducted drill presses and belt and disk sanders?


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My Belt sander system is in this thread
Ducting update.

DP is n this thread
Improving machine cabinet dust ports

Thanks Bob I hadn't seen your DP extraction, I was thinking something similar but wanted some ideas for attachment and adjustment.
Regarding the belt and disk sander I have a Hafco L-69A and not sure how I'm going to alter that one yet. Perhaps just some 100mm bell mouth hoods at the end of the belt and above the disk?


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Here's a few connection ideas

These supports and connections are made of of 3mm thick mild steel strap or angle bent by hand or hammer and vice and the drilled and tapped with M6 threads and then I use M6 socket head screws.

The positions are easily adjusted using an allen key

The disadvantage with steel is it needs painting

BeltSander.jpg
BeltSanderMS.jpg

Dpcon.jpg

I have since switched to using SS strap in place of steel as it does not need painting.

Bandsaw.jpg

Also I have replaced the frequently adjusted socket head screws with bolts with round handles welded onto the ends.

Originally Posted by MandJ

Got it from plumbing section in Bunnings, one size fits all, you cut out the marked ring that matches your pipe.

i couldn't find it on the bunnings website searching for rubber boot so actually had to visit the shop in person.... imagine that!!! was in plumbing section exactly as you said thought id post the link... its called a red silicone roof flashing
https://www.bunnings.com.au/dektite-...shing_p4822592

Been a while, life got in the way again, but I am getting close now. Flashing is done, doors are on and the electrician will be around to wire things up soon.
IMG_6561.jpg IMG_6671.jpg

I was going to pick up the Leda Machinery 3HP dust extractor and built the enclosure to suit. However, they are out of stock and they are stuck on a boat somewhere and not expected for a few months. Hence, I'm now choosing between the Carbatec (DC2300P) and Machinery House (DC7) machines. One problem is the Carbatec extractor won't fit, too high, but I think I can rectify that by removing the small straight section as shown below. Does anybody see a problem with that approach? Obviously I'll also have to cut bags or purchase some other bags that will fit.
DC-2300P.jpg

Originally Posted by heybluey

Does anybody see a problem with that approach? Obviously I'll also have to cut bags or purchase some other bags that will fit.

Should be OK, you won't need to cut the bags, just fold them over at the top a bit more than usual.

Some big progress on the dust extraction install. Went with the Carbatec unit, got it installed and the electrician has wired it up so it is switched on from inside the shed.
Anybody got a better idea than my cable tie to keep the power switch "on"?


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No Volt switches like those are meant to be pulsed ON.
Holding down the switch like that could end up burning out the electromagnetic coil.
It's better to remove the switch and wire the motor back to the inside of the shed and re-install the switch there.

Originally Posted by BobL

Holding down the switch like that could end up burning out the electromagnetic coil.
It's better to remove the switch and wire the motor back to the inside of the shed and re-install the switch there.

Yeah it's not really the solution I wanted but I'm assuming I'll void the warranty going down that route? Is there a solution where I won't void the warranty?


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Originally Posted by BobL

No Volt switches like those are meant to be pulsed ON.
Holding down the switch like that could end up burning out the electromagnetic coil.

When you push the button the coil relay is closed by the button signal and then kept closed by another relay contact the whole time that the motor is running. You can't burn it out by holding the button down but you lose the benefit of the no-volt protection.

However I agree with your comment about rewireing the switch to inside the shed as that is the correct way to do it.

Those switches are normally spade terminals, get the sparky to use some spade - spade connectors, and as others said, move the switch into the shed where you once again have the safety benefit of an NVR switch, there is no cutting or modification of the existing wiring, if the unit fails under warranty just get the sparky to plug the switch back into the original housing and connectors.

Yep I agree locking it down won't burn out the coil, I was thinking of a completely different type of switch.

Another minor issue with permanently locking down the switch is it will permanently stretch the transparent vinyl switch cover. In short order it really will look like you have locked the switch down so if warranty issues arise they might question that. Also don't be tempted to remove the cover as the switch might then fill up with fine dust.

Like M&J says just by bypass the switch. Once bypassed you could even leave the existing one where it is and just use another no volt switch inside.

I just use one of these.
AC180-240V Wireless RF Remote Switch Control Transmitter w/Receiver Board Module | eBay

Doesn't matter what machine I'm at, I just turn on the dusty via the remote switch which I have in my pocket or hanging from my belt. Just search for "240v remote switch" for more variations on ebay.

Hooroo