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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Perth
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    I completely agree about the need for flexible flexy in some situations. One situation is on the blade guard of my TS. It does not rise easily more than about 100 mm above the table so have to be able to swing out aside for some cuts. The other is the 100mm flexy that collects from the undersides of my BS.

    The loss of flow between stiff and flexible flexy depends on things like, how "bendy" the pathway is, depth of corrugations, flexy length and actual flow.
    A short straight hose with low flow won't lose much flow going from a stiff to a flexible flexy.
    A long flexible hose carrying a lot of air will lose significant flow.

    This graph shows the results of testing I did in 2017 these were done using a 3HP DC with a 13" impeller.
    The 100m hose was connected to a 150 mm port so max flow/suck.
    The 100mm TC hose is the stiffer flexy from Timbecon requires 6m to reduce the flow by half compared tp the 4m to lose half the flow for the more flexible flexy from CT.
    A BMH on the end of the hose also helps if you have lot of suction but much less so if you don't.



    summary.jpg

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Vic
    Age
    48
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    49

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    Some pretty good info to get me started.
    Thanks all.


    Any suggestions for SCMS extraction?
    I was thinking of a wooden hood with a pipe dropped down into it from the top (with the side of the pipe scalloped out.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
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    If you look at Post #5 in this thread you can see one I used until recently.

    Table for SCMS - WIP

    The size of it was necessary because the rods on the Makita SCMS slide backwards, so you need a lot of space behind. To allow the table to be stored against the shed wall, the hood was able to slide forward but you couldn’t cut as the hood interfered with the timber being cut.

    It became such a PITA to wheel out the table, move the hood back, lift the base, that I was hardly using my SCMS.

    I removed the hood and went to a totally different system using a BMH and blocking plates as well as the dust port on the saw connected by 50mm hose to a SuperVac Vacuum cleaner.

    Its not a efficient as the hood but much easier to use. I’ll get some photos tomorrow.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Vic
    Age
    48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lappa View Post
    If you look at Post #5 in this thread you can see one I used until recently.

    Table for SCMS - WIP

    The size of it was necessary because the rods on the Makita SCMS slide backwards, so you need a lot of space behind. To allow the table to be stored against the shed wall, the hood was able to slide forward but you couldn’t cut as the hood interfered with the timber being cut.

    It became such a PITA to wheel out the table, move the hood back, lift the base, that I was hardly using my SCMS.

    I removed the hood and went to a totally different system using a BMH and blocking plates as well as the dust port on the saw connected by 50mm hose to a SuperVac Vacuum cleaner.

    Its not a efficient as the hood but much easier to use. I’ll get some photos tomorrow.

    That'd be great.
    I did knock up a plywood hood using the stock DC and hose but it didn't work so I canned it.
    It's certainly one of the worst machines for dust in my shed.
    The slides travel backwards on mine too. (Bosch 10" green)

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
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    4,470

    Default New SCMS setup

    Henry. As promised here are some pics. of my new setup. It consists of a BMH and two blocking plates which can be moved to allow the BMH to be in the centre or right or left for angle cuts.
    As I said, it’s not as effective as the full hood but it still works very well. I may add some other cloth upper shrouds after I use it for a while but the beauty of it is that it’s fast to pull out from the wall and set- up and that was my main goal.

    23F5D902-4CF3-446D-8D51-3CD5DF737810.jpeg 64D0DFAA-D56D-4096-905F-A3CA0AB346A4.jpeg

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Vic
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    48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lappa View Post
    Henry. As promised here are some pics. of my new setup. It consists of a BMH and two blocking plates which can be moved to allow the BMH to be in the centre or right or left for angle cuts.
    As I said, it’s not as effective as the full hood but it still works very well. I may add some other cloth upper shrouds after I use it for a while but the beauty of it is that it’s fast to pull out from the wall and set- up and that was my main goal.
    That looks pretty simple. Thanks!

    Is it 150mm?

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
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    Sydney Upper North Shore
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    Yes, 150mm. BobL made it for me, plus a 100m BMH as well.

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Somerville
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    50
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    295

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    I'm about to setup my dust extractor (2HP). It looks like it's got a 150mm input, with a factory 1-into-2 splitter that turns it into two 100mm inputs (one of which is blanked off). Would I be better to leave it as-is, or remove the splitter and run a 150mm line down the middle of my garage, with 100mm drops for the saws etc? Assuming will need a bunch of blast gates
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
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    Remove and fit a bell mouth hood - see sticky at top of duct forum one how to modify a generic 2HP DC. If you don't make the mod then the 6" ducting will be wasted. Also 6" ducting should right up to all machines and the 4" ports omg machines replaced with 6" ports. Using 4" ports and ducting really restricts flow.

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Somerville
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    50
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    Where would I get 6" joints (45 degree bends, 45 degree splits) etc? I can't see much at bunnings online.
    Edit: found
    Holman 150mm 45deg Female And Female PVC Stormwater Elbow | Bunnings Warehouse
    Holman 150mm 45deg Female And Female PVC Stormwater Junction
    ok?

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
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    SYou need to ring around plumbing supply stores. Don’t bother calling Reece Plumbing unless you have an account or know someone as their prices are ridiculous - a 45degree 150mm elbow has a RRP of $17 and they charge $34.95. I buy them from my local plumbing supply shop for $9.95.

    To get a good idea of what the realistic prices are check out the prices at pipeonline in WA. A friendly plumbing supply place will be close to these prices. I have found that RRP is about twice their prices but still a hell of a lot cheaper than Reece.

    Note that Bunnings prices are a little under RRP. The other thing I’ve found is they don’t have a big selection in large size fittings and my local store is reluctant to/won’t order items I need that they don’t normally stock. Maybe yours is more customer focused/friendly

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    NZ
    Posts
    157

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    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle Henry View Post
    So do you just cut a hole in the threaded cap to push the hose in?
    Yes, you can cut it out with a jigsaw or a small router.

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