Thread: New dust extractor reccomendations and build log

Originally Posted by QC Inspector

Just for grins take the throat plate out, run the DC and see what the amperage and noise is like.

Pete

Will do, i did do that (didnt look at the power) but i dont remember hearing any real difference. There are heaps of large gaps in the saw body especially on the motor side. But we'll see what happens

It looks like the lower part of the TS cabinet is pretty well sealed up? Remember air needs to be able to get in so that fine dust can get out and relying on it all coming through small gaps won't be very effective. What usually works is an air inlet to the cabinet opposite the air out take to help sweep away the dust.

You want inlets (gaps, deliberately/strategically placed inlets) that are the same as or slightly larger than the outlet to stop the airflow out bring strangled.

Originally Posted by Lappa

. . . . . . . to stop the airflow out being strangled.

I like that.

yeah i guess i always have the option of plugging up a heap of the smaller holes as best i can and then cutting out a few larger holes in the panel directly across from the intake to try and sweep across the bottom as you guys have mentioned

Don’t bother plugging any small holes but do open up others.

Originally Posted by BobL

Originally Posted by Lappa

..... to stop the airflow out bring strangled.

I like that.

Too anthropomorphic for my taste.

so managed play around a tiny bit more this afternoon. i'm on night shifts so its hard to sink a good few hours into playing around with this.

so did a quick bit of testing again. i took the throat plate off and it made nearly 0 difference to the amps. i then took the filters off the DC and got 5.9 amps. it looks like the other filter is there but its wide open at the base.






with the filters off and just running the 6" intake i get 6.1amps. Another thing i quickly tested was the table saw amps. with only about a 1/3 of the blade cutting some MDF i drew about 3 and a bit amps. so i'm going be riding the limit of my 10amp breaker if i ever start ripping some thick hardwood. Definitely going to need a separate 15amp circuit.



so i don't think its the filters or anything holding the big girl back but the intake/exhaust pipe work is now the limiting factor. so i think this is about the peak performance i'm going to get out of it, air movement wise with out some serious modification. i will still probably convert the bags over to pleated filters pure for the ease of cleaning and slightly small foot print.

i also did my best attempt at doing some incense testing (i don't have any incense so a smouldering bit of paper was the best i could get on short notice). i also popped a few holes in the panel directly across from the cabinet intake, but more on that later.

at the blade insert i do seem to be getting an ok amount of air movement



it's a little harder to make out but i dont think its pulling as great at the holes i punched out.



but this brings a new issue. i think there is obviously some "cyclonic" action going on in box so when i throw some larger chips in through the holes as per the video below. you can see they kind of get flung around and to the rear corners. i assume these bits are large enough to get flung out of the air stream and there just isn't enough vacuum or air movement in those areas to pick it up and get it into the intake. i guess a few possible solutions are:





rather then having a few small holes, one large open gap instead
put some circular baffles in the corners to help get a more laminar flow and keep the particles in motion
move the intake and the opposite side intake to as close to the bottom panel as possible to encourage air movement there.

it may also help once i get a decent bell mouth shape on that intake as well. the only other small issue with this problem is those corners where the dust is piling up arean't sealed off. so i just know i'm going to get 4 little piles of dust and bits piling up under the saw.

none of this is permanent just yet. just some playing around to build up my own understanding before i finally decide this is where i want everything and how its going to work as best as i can.

Now (very carefully) try your smoke test with the blade running

The try it while ripping a piece of wood.

Originally Posted by BobL

Now (very carefully) try your smoke test with the blade running

It's a SawStop so safety be damned !

Got a spare cartridge and blade? If you don't you won't be able to get another when you want. That's why I keep extras.

Pete

Originally Posted by poundy

It's a SawStop so safety be damned !

Sure, but I'd hate to blow a cartridge on a basic smoke test.

Honestly thinking about buying a small smoke machine just to play with. Theres a couple online for like $35. Cant see how the smoke test would set off the blade. But i do have a cartridge with carbatec at th moment on evaluation for a free replacement.

Anyone want to lend me me a decently sized round over bit?

Originally Posted by havabeer69

Honestly thinking about buying a small smoke machine just to play with. Theres a couple online for like $35.

A smoke machine can't tell that much - all it can tell is the direction of the flow but you really need to do that test wth the blade running at full speed and then while cutting.

Instead of smoke you can use flow streamers like this.
Ducting update.