Thread: Dust filtration

Harrison
It might be a better dies to stop the dust getting into the air first, rather than using one of these after the fact as it is too late. The volume of air you would need to filter to get rid of all the particles would be quite large and you would have breathed quite a bit of dust before it is all gone.

Just my 2 cents

Red

thanks for the adivice redlaci2004 i forgot to mention the modifacations im going to make to it

the guy in the workshop book says if beltsanding he has to clean the filters every two hours so i was thinking of converting my yet to be made vacume cyclone and put one of those say exhaust hood mounts on the front and run a short distance of pipe to the cycolne then too the tools

this is what i would plan to put on the front
Saw Exhaust Hoods : CARBA-TEC

cheers Harrison

Originally Posted by Harrison

thanks for the adivice redlaci2004 i forgot to mention the modifacations im going to make to it

the guy in the workshop book says if beltsanding he has to clean the filters every two hours so i was thinking of converting my yet to be made vacume cyclone and put one of those say exhaust hood mounts on the front and run a short distance of pipe to the cycolne then too the tools

this is what i would plan to put on the front
Saw Exhaust Hoods : CARBA-TEC

cheers Harrison

if its belt or orbital sanding dust that is the main worry i would be inclined to make a sanding table with down draft connected to the cyclone ,that way nothing should get into the air to start with

Originally Posted by arms

if its belt or orbital sanding dust that is the main worry i would be inclined to make a sanding table with down draft connected to the cyclone ,that way nothing should get into the air to start with

the book is about 10 years old and i was only using the guy as an example as to how effecient the system is.
so what i gather your saying is make a draft table to go with the system.
i will be using this system as a filtration or as a colector with the cyclone

cheers Harrison

Originally Posted by arms

if its belt or orbital sanding dust that is the main worry i would be inclined to make a sanding table with down draft connected to the cyclone ,that way nothing should get into the air to start with

I made one of those, drilled all the 1/4 " holes 20 mm apart in a grid and used a countersink bit to enlarge the opening. The bottom was angled to the centre and 4" DC connection and plumbed in. A beautiful piece of equipment I thought.


Well I was wrong. A total waste of a week of work as it didn't work very well. Turned out that if the DC was only 2hp and a short hose it was ineffective as the suction was insufficient for sucking the sanding over an area of 459 * 600 mm.


Peter.

Originally Posted by Sturdee

I made one of those, drilled all the 1/4 " holes 20 mm apart in a grid and used a countersink bit to enlarge the opening. The bottom was angled to the centre and 4" DC connection and plumbed in. A beautiful piece of equipment I thought.


Well I was wrong. A total waste of a week of work as it didn't work very well. Turned out that if the DC was only 2hp and a short hose it was ineffective as the suction was insufficient for sucking the sanding over an area of 459 * 600 mm.


Peter.

the table wasnt inefficent ,you had been overzealous with the amount and size of the down holes ,i have drilled 3mm diameter holes in a similar grid but i think that in your case you may have had a collector below that was too large to draw air in effectively .the base should only be about 25mm deep with the inlet in the centre ,this way the piece being sanded will be held down and the drawing air will be increased around the perimeter of the work

Originally Posted by arms

the table wasnt inefficent ,you had been overzealous with the amount and size of the down holes ,i have drilled 3mm diameter holes in a similar grid but i think that in your case you may have had a collector below that was too large to draw air in effectively .the base should only be about 25mm deep with the inlet in the centre ,this way the piece being sanded will be held down and the drawing air will be increased around the perimeter of the work

further to the point ,if you have a board 600mm x 456mm then drill holes 20mm apart you would have 609 holes the area for 1 hole 6mm in diameter is 28.26mm sq therefore collectively you would have an area of draft 17,210mm sq .a 100 mm pipe has 7,900 mmsq of space now even if you could force twice the air down the tube you would still have approx 1/5 more area of air coming in than can be drawn ,

Originally Posted by arms

the table wasn't inefficent ,you had been overzealous with the amount and size of the down holes

I'm sure your advice is correct and very helpful for those wanting to build one.

Unfortunately I just followed the instructions from an article published in "Fine Woodworking" magazine instead of asking here. Since it didn't work I worked around it and now my lathe is built over it.

Peter.

Originally Posted by Sturdee

I'm sure your advice is correct and very helpful for those wanting to build one.

Unfortunately I just followed the instructions from an article published in "Fine Woodworking" magazine instead of asking here. Since it didn't work I worked around it and now my lathe is built over it.

Peter.

hi,unfortunatley in most cases the improvement/woodworking magazines dont really go into the math before they publish their articles ,i hope your lathe gives you better results than the down draft table

Originally Posted by arms

i hope your lathe gives you better results than the down draft table

It does as a whole new aspect is opening up.


Peter.