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Thread: Exhaust fan questions (from US)
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3rd April 2021, 11:29 PM #1Member
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Exhaust fan questions (from US)
I want to add an exhaust fan to my workshop and I could use another set of eyes to check my work. My shop is about 10' x 20' (3m x 6m) with this configuration:
WorkshopFloorPlan.jpg
The opening at the top is a garage door. I plan to install an inline duct fan high in the ceiling above the window at the bottom of the schematic. The fan will exhaust immediately to the outside using a hooded wall vent with damper and screen like this:
WVEBA_MAIN-scaled.jpg
The volume of my shop is about 1700 cubic feet, so to get 10-20 air changes an hour, I would need 283 - 567 of real CFM. I found a company called Vents that is relatively reasonably priced and publishes detailed specifications, including fan curves.
I was originally planning to use a mixed axial and centrifugal fan, like this:
TT 200
However, the user manual says it should not be used to convey dusty air.
Then I found this centrifugal fan, which is also used to boost clothes dryer vents, so I assume dust is not an issue:
VK 200
That 8" (200mm) fan moves 507 CFM at 0" static pressure and 395 CFM at 0.5". This fan is relatively quiet at 3.5 sones.
If I step up to the 10" (250mm) fan, then it moves 735 CFM at 0" and 558 CFM at 0.5". However, this fan is louder (4.3 sones) and the fan and vent are both more expensive.
VK 250
Question 1. Is the 8" fan good enough?
Question 2: Does it make sense to have a damper inside the shop as well? I was interested to find that Vents publishes fan curves for their butterfly dampers, also: KOM U 200
Question 3: They recommend installing 1m of duct before and after the fan. I'm not clear if that's for air movement, noise, or safety. If I do that, then the inlet will be 1/3 of the way into my shop. Has anybody had trouble just using the fan's inlet without extra ducting?
Mark
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3rd April 2021, 11:53 PM #2.
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It depends on the real CFM. An 8" fan should be able to deliver inside the CFM range you are after.
Question 2: Does it make sense to have a damper inside the shop as well? I was interested to find that Vents publishes fan curves for their butterfly dampers, also: KOM U 200
Question 3: They recommend installing 1m of duct before and after the fan. I'm not clear if that's for air movement, noise, or safety. If I do that, then the inlet will be 1/3 of the way into my shop. Has anybody had trouble just using the fan's inlet without extra ducting?
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4th April 2021, 04:33 AM #3Member
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I guess one of my questions is what is a good target air exchange rate. I have seen 8" centrifugal fans marketed for hydroponics that say they move 740 CFM, which seems very unlikely. (VIVOSUN 8 Inch 740 CFM Inline Duct Fan) I'm not sure when we quote 20 air exchanges an hour if that's real air exchanges, or accounts for manufacturer's inflated CFM and louvers.
I should have been more clear. I mean a backdraft damper to keep air from entering the workshop when the fan is off. The wall vent has a thin metal damper, held in place by a spring. Does it make sense to have another backdraft damper right before or after the fan? I know bathroom fans often have two.
I really appreciate the fast, knowledgeable responses on this forum!
Mark
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4th April 2021, 09:23 AM #4.
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Using one or even a few fans never results in even one real room air change. To achieve real room air exchange requires a wall of fans at one end of a shop and an opposite wall of air entry ways. The air flow path between air entry ways and the fans should be unobstructed as possible and nothing inside the room (like a motor fan) should upset the air flow.
It depends on the shape of the workshop but most squarish workshops and rooms with just a few exhaust fans on one wall typically achieve a "1/2 dilution" model.
This model says when a whole rooms worth of air has gone into and out of the room only about half the air exiting the room is air that contains dust, the rest is fresh air that has just come into the room.
This means each room air exchange at best only 1/2 the amount of suspended air dust i removed.
The next whole room air exchange removes 1/2 of the remaining dust.
So the sequence is 50%, 75%, 87.5%, 93.75%, 96.875% etc
So some dust always remains and is why 20 real room air changes pr hour is a target but if all you can get is 10 real room changes that is still very good.
NB the above assumes that no more dust is being produced in the meantime and the shop is not crowded or divided by large cupboards, shelving or timber racks etc which can create dead air spaces that will be difficult for one or a few ventilation fans to clear air from behind.
I should have been more clear. I mean a backdraft damper to keep air from entering the workshop when the fan is off. The wall vent has a thin metal damper, held in place by a spring. Does it make sense to have another backdraft damper right before or after the fan? I know bathroom fans often have two.
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4th April 2021, 12:09 PM #5Member
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That all makes perfect sense. I was trying to do an exhaust fan as a interim step before a cyclone, but especially since I have so many windows and doors in the shop (see picture in first post on this thread), I think it makes more sense to just use the open windows, doors, and standard box fans for now. Then I can focus on getting a cyclone setup. The cyclone can always be used as an exhaust fan. These little fans just optimized for less noise and energy usage.
Thanks Bob, you really helped clarify my thinking.
Mark
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