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  1. #31
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    Feb 2006
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    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnredl View Post
    How's this for luck. I've been getting around to buying insulation for this enclosure. Then today I found 1 bag of Bradford Gold Bats R1.5 lying on the middle island of a busy street. It was still there 1 hour later so now it's mine.

    I'd planned on thicker insulation, so, should I double it up? Also do I need to line the inside with gyprock/fibro, or will the insulation alone give me adequate acoustic properties?
    The gold bats will not give much acoustical insulation but they are better than nothing

    However, if you are after noise control, something very important is missing from your walls and that is "mass". You need some sort of high density barrier preferably on the outside (could still be under the metal cladding).
    The massive material can be chipboard or gyprock.

    here is what is usually done: Starting from the sound source, then Sound Absorber (bats), then heavy/dense sound reflector on the outside. Sheet metal cladding doesn't count as heavy/dense material it is too thin and floppy.

    There may be a good reason for cladding the inside walls with something solid that has nothing to do with sound control and that is the moving air is going to continually fluff up and blow bat material out of your louvres i.e. not good.

    BTW if you use my louvre design above then you will not have much sound control - I did say that in my post.

    Starting from the outside I use, Colorbond metal cladding, 32 mm melamine, 25mm bats, 15 mm chipboard and the 75 mm of foam. I only used this because I had all the materials freely available.

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  3. #32
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Adelaide, SA
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    962

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    I've started installing the ducting. I'll post a pic when the I'm not embarrassed by the state of my shop .

    In the mean time, here are 14 sides of my shop made blast gates. (I'm making 7, 6 for now and 1 for later expansion).

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1423601229.174343.jpg

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Adelaide, SA
    Posts
    962

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    Some more blast gate pics

    Gluing laminate to the inside surfaces to help the gates slide smoothly.
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1424259751.371564.jpg


    2mm aluminium as the slider, with a 30mm lip bent on each end to allow ur fingers to grip the slide.
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1424259801.985812.jpg


    Getting ready to glue
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1424259863.335757.jpg


    How it's going to look...hopefully!
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1424259891.886464.jpg


    In the vice. It's too late to turn back now! So far this project has cost me $20 ($15 for aluminium) not counting the PVC...for 7 x 6" self-cleaning blast gates!
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1424260011.036558.jpg

  5. #34
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    Feb 2006
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    Perth
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    Good work JR.

    Instead of bending the ally to make the gate handle you could attach/screw a small block of wood to the ally so you could take them apart if needed.

  6. #35
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Adelaide, SA
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    You know, as soon as I finished the 2nd bend I thought the same thing.

    I think I'll bend 1 side and screw some wood to the other side. It'll b interesting to see if I can straighten 1 side now that it's glued!

  7. #36
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Adelaide, SA
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    Oh forgot to mention. I figured out how to go from 6" flex to 6" PVC easily

    Flex is 6" ID same as PVC. Just so happens that chimney flue is 6" OD. It slips inside PVC easily enough, and I think with some silicon and a few rivets it'll be snug.

    So put simply, I'm going to cut some 8" lengths of flue and attach them to 1 side of the blast gates. Then I can attach the flex to 1 side easily.

    Makes sense?

  8. #37
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Posts
    51

    Red face

    Quote Originally Posted by johnredl View Post
    Oh forgot to mention. I figured out how to go from 6" flex to 6" PVC easily

    Flex is 6" ID same as PVC. Just so happens that chimney flue is 6" OD. It slips inside PVC easily enough, and I think with some silicon and a few rivets it'll be snug.

    So put simply, I'm going to cut some 8" lengths of flue and attach them to 1 side of the blast gates. Then I can attach the flex to 1 side easily.

    Makes sense?

    There is another way of dealing with the PVC to flex connection. Buy 160 dia flex which fits the PVC OD perfectly.

  9. #38
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    Epping.Vic
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    58
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    1,094

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    Nice Job John
    Regards
    Al .

    You don't know, what you don't know, until you know it.

  10. #39
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Adelaide, SA
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    Update time. I've insulated the enclosure walls with the bag of r1.5 that I found lying on the side of the road. Gyprock went over that and the dust extractor is now in its new home. To solve the power issue, I ran a 15 amp power cord next to the ducting and into the shed to the 15 amp power point.

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1426284026.946322.jpg

    I don't think I need to worry about theft...I had to take it apart fully before struggling it through the door. It's really heavy!

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1426284094.677006.jpg

    I'm not quite so positive about fitting the air compressor in there now. The vac should definitely fit, but I think it may be a bit squeezy.

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1426284191.443083.jpg

    A short but of flex to not only make installation easier, but allows for machine movement and shakes.

  11. #40
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Adelaide, SA
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    It's pretty much done now. The Bandsaw, Thicknesser and Jointer are all plumbed in. Just have lathe and drill press, plus the 1 'multiuse' port that's above my bench to do. The one above the bench will do: mitre saw, router, general vacuuming, work bench. I still haven't worked out how to do this 1 yet. Stay tuned.

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1426311765.179164.jpg

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