Thread: laguna C flux/P flux extractors

Originally Posted by KahoyKutter

I'd like to preface my comment by first stating that I'm not an electrician so take the following with a grain of salt. I've no idea but I think 30A is a bit much for a start up current. If I had to guess, I reckon 17A would be the start up current and the 14A stated on the sticker or the motor would be normal operating current.

My supposed "3hp" bayer dc-7 will pull 22amps on start up, doesnt trip anything, even with my sawstop on the same circuit.

Originally Posted by KahoyKutter

Ok, so I terminated the plug and fired her up. According to the sound meter app on my phone, the P flux is 1~2dB louder than my 2hp Jet Vortex DE (69dB vs 67dB) at a distance of 2m. I can also say that the P Flux is more baritone than the Jet and and a lot of the noise is due to the greater air flow. The Jet is a bit whinier.

As for suction, I can't really say because I don't yet have the necessary fittings and there are a lot of restrictions in my current 4" set up so I don't imagine I'll notice any improvements until I upgrade the rest of my DE system.

How does it feel quality and build wise?

Need to invite bob around for a cup of coffee and do some before and after tests with his background meter

Originally Posted by KahoyKutter

I'd like to preface my comment by first stating that I'm not an electrician so take the following with a grain of salt. I've no idea but I think 30A is a bit much for a start up current. If I had to guess, I reckon 17A would be the start up current and the 14A stated on the sticker or the motor would be normal operating current.

Actually 30 as start up current on a 3HP Dc is on the light side. Start up currents are very difficult to measure as start up all happens so quickly so it depends on the response/intergration time of your ammeter.

I have current meters on most of my gear so can monitor currents and have seen up to 35A as a start up currents on a 2HP DC, and up to 57A on my 3HP DC. Of course this is for only a fraction of a second. Breakers are usually designed to cope with this.

I'd say 17A is the max short term current (a few seconds) before (assuming it has one) the thermal cut out on the motor kicks in. This is the same on my 3HP TS. I get about 3s at this and then it trips out. Not sure what the 14A is - it sounds like a 50% overload current.

Originally Posted by BobL

.....Not sure what the 14A is - it sounds like a 50% overload current.

Thanks Bob.

For what it's worth, below is a pic of the label on the motor. It's where I got the 14A from.


20200926_070036.jpg

14 A is a reasonable full load current for a 3 hp motor operating at 240 V. For motors that size and cost level 1.1 kVA per horsepower is often assumed, so 3300/240 = 13.75 A. Or, typically, 80% efficiency and 85% power factor: 3 x 750 / 240 / .8 / .85 = 13.79 A.

A good estimate for start current (locked rotor current) is about six times full load current. 6 x 14 = 84 A. The trip curve on your breaker must be able to hold that until the motor is up to speed. With a large, heavy impeller a dust collector can take several seconds to accelerate.

The 17 A operating current listed in the Australian manual is strange but not nearly as strange as the US manual. It lists the operating current as 22 A !

Originally Posted by dmorse

14 A is a reasonable full load current for a 3 hp motor operating at 240 V. For motors that size and cost level 1.1 kVA per horsepower is often assumed, so 3300/240 = 13.75 A. Or, typically, 80% efficiency and 85% power factor: 3 x 750 / 240 / .8 / .85 = 13.79 A.

A good estimate for start current (locked rotor current) is about six times full load current. 6 x 14 = 84 A. The trip curve on your breaker must be able to hold that until the motor is up to speed. With a large, heavy impeller a dust collector can take several seconds to accelerate.

The 17 A operating current listed in the Australian manual is strange but not nearly as strange as the US manual. It lists the operating current as 22 A !

Because of the confusion I decided to get the sparky to fit a 32A single phase plug and socket and 30 amp circuit - decided that it was better to err on the side of caution etc.

Originally Posted by havabeer69

How does it feel quality and build wise?

It feels nice and solid (and bloody heavy). The gauge of steel used is quite thick, the bracing and strengthening brackets really stiffen the unit up, and the paint is quite thick and even throughout. The lifting action for the drum is effortless and there are a few design touches that bring it up aesthetically. The clamp to secure the HEPA filter to unit is 32mm wide and all the clamps/clasps used are all quite substantial. The flush mounted door latches are a nice touch and they wouldn't be out of place in a communications cabinet. I can confirm that the few times I've fired her up the negative pressure used to hold the bag down really does work. The included remote is quite small (smaller than most car remotes I've seen) with good range and doesn't require line of sight for it to work.

One difference that I hadn't originally considered when opting between the C and the P, and which I think will prove to be a significant pro in practise, is the lack of a steel drum liner in the P Flux. On the C, the steel drum liner sits inside the plastic bag. This means you have to lift it out before tying the bag up and lifting it out. This is an extra step which potentially can make a bit more of a mess. And knowing me, I'd forget to put it back in and the bag would probably end up in the impeller.

Where Laguna has managed to save is due to their clever packaging. The unit comes so tightly packaged which means their transport and warehousing costs are cheaper because they can fit more units into a container. They're like the woodworking version of Ikea. The downside is there's more assembly for the customer.

Rang carbatec today about the flux dust extractors they where getting due today. I noticed they had swapped their status online from "coming soon" to "sold out"

So they're getting a shipment, but it has been delayed to February now, of that 12 they have already sold 3. Im still tossing up if im going to be number 4, but waiting till feb seems a long way off.

I was only going to purchase through carbatec because they will ship to their Sydney store for free so i can pick it up from there, vs the $250 freight charge

Can tell you that the suction power of these is damn good!

Well carbatec has made a lair out of me.

Got an email notification that the c fluxes where in stock. So gave them another call and yep they've turned up at the brisbane store and jave been checked over etc.

So bit the bullet and bought one.

So they're up at brisbane, but they will transfer it to sydney for me and i can pick up from there. Other wise it was like $300 for delivery. Searched around but $2940 was pretty much the cheapest price so hopefully not next week but week after i should have one.

ooof, its a big boy.

whats the "WLL" of a G clamp...

Make sure that your workshop is well vented to allow air in - you don't want the suction to implode it!

Finally have mine 90% done. I really need to do a bit of a write up on it and update my other thread.



Have built my rough as enclosure to at least try and contain some of the dust. Will have to see how long it takes before the motor cooks being cooped up in there with only 80mm space above the motor fan.







Getting the electrical sorted is confusing.
The motor is ladled as 14amps
The Australian book says 14amps
The online book says 22amps
And the recommended circuit is 30amps

Had an eleco put a 4mm cable, 32amp cb and single power point for it in a while ago. Plugged it in and noticed the cable going to the machine is 1.5mm.

Baffles me that i have to put beefy cable leading to the power point, yet the tail coming from the machine is tiny for the same current?

I found a guy on gumtree selling an 8" to 6" pvc reducer for a range hood ducting. As all the plumbing stuff i could find is 9" so with the cflux outlet being 8" was going to require a bit of work to make it fit other then ordering something from online.

It definitely has quite a bit of suck on it. I think with a proper bell mouth there wouldnt be as much scatter in the movie below. Its just some chipboard shavings from cutting up the enclosure sides.