Thread: laguna C flux/P flux extractors

I'm just waiting for the sparky to come to do the wiring for my P-Flux, but some comments so far -
- allow a very big day and two people to put it together
- throw the written assemby instructions to one side and use the video on Laguna's website
- use 8" ducting if you can to match the 8" inlet

I've just finished putting mine together as well. I've just got to buy a 15A plug tomorrow and I'm good to go. A few other differences between the C-Flux and P-Flux that I hadn't realised during my research are:

- The P has what Laguna call a cannister cover plate (also with foam sound insulation as per the doors) which ties the left and right verticals together. I would imagine that this would stiffen up the chassis quite a bit.
- The C uses an inner drum liner that sits inside the plastic bag to weigh it down preventing it from being sucked up. The P uses negative vacuum to keep the bag down
- The drum of the P also has a sensor to detect the sawdust level

There also looks to be some improvements since the filming of the YouTube installation video. Firstly, the casters for the drum now the swivel-plate type and secured with 4 bolts instead of single threaded bolt. This disperses the load through a greater surface area. The other improvement to the drum I noticed is the octagonal panels are now secured with tiny bolt and "acorn" nuts instead of screws. Whilst this is a more elegant solution (no need for rubber caps on the inside to prevent the screws from tearing the bag), it is more difficult to do yourself because you either need long arms to do up the bottom nuts and bolts or a long screwdriver. And you'll also need a 6mm socket or spanner for the acorn nuts. The last improvement I noticed on my P flux (I'm sure it's the same for the C) is the've now included a bar/plate that mounts on the bottom of the cyclone. Apparently this is to improve the particle separation. It's not mentioned in the video.

Originally Posted by KahoyKutter

I've just finished putting mine together as well. I've just got to buy a 15A plug tomorrow and I'm good to go. A few other differences between the C-Flux and P-Flux that I hadn't realised during my research are:

- The P has what Laguna call a cannister cover plate (also with foam sound insulation as per the doors) which ties the left and right verticals together. I would imagine that this would stiffen up the chassis quite a bit.
- The C uses an inner drum liner that sits inside the plastic bag to weigh it down preventing it from being sucked up. The P uses negative vacuum to keep the bag down
- The drum of the P also has a sensor to detect the sawdust level

There also looks to be some improvements since the filming of the YouTube installation video. Firstly, the casters for the drum now the swivel-plate type and secured with 4 bolts instead of single threaded bolt. This disperses the load through a greater surface area. The other improvement to the drum I noticed is the octagonal panels are now secured with tiny bolt and "acorn" nuts instead of screws. Whilst this is a more elegant solution (no need for rubber caps on the inside to prevent the screws from tearing the bag), it is more difficult to do yourself because you either need long arms to do up the bottom nuts and bolts or a long screwdriver. And you'll also need a 6mm socket or spanner for the acorn nuts. The last improvement I noticed on my P flux (I'm sure it's the same for the C) is the've now included a bar/plate that mounts on the bottom of the cyclone. Apparently this is to improve the particle separation. It's not mentioned in the video.

I do think i saw alot of your points mentioned in an assembly/review video.

Let us know how it all goes tomorrow if your fire it up

Originally Posted by KahoyKutter

I've just finished putting mine together as well. I've just got to buy a 15A plug tomorrow and I'm good to go. A few other differences between the C-Flux and P-Flux that I hadn't realised during my research are:

- The P has what Laguna call a cannister cover plate (also with foam sound insulation as per the doors) which ties the left and right verticals together. I would imagine that this would stiffen up the chassis quite a bit.
- The C uses an inner drum liner that sits inside the plastic bag to weigh it down preventing it from being sucked up. The P uses negative vacuum to keep the bag down
- The drum of the P also has a sensor to detect the sawdust level

There also looks to be some improvements since the filming of the YouTube installation video. Firstly, the casters for the drum now the swivel-plate type and secured with 4 bolts instead of single threaded bolt. This disperses the load through a greater surface area. The other improvement to the drum I noticed is the octagonal panels are now secured with tiny bolt and "acorn" nuts instead of screws. Whilst this is a more elegant solution (no need for rubber caps on the inside to prevent the screws from tearing the bag), it is more difficult to do yourself because you either need long arms to do up the bottom nuts and bolts or a long screwdriver. And you'll also need a 6mm socket or spanner for the acorn nuts. The last improvement I noticed on my P flux (I'm sure it's the same for the C) is the've now included a bar/plate that mounts on the bottom of the cyclone. Apparently this is to improve the particle separation. It's not mentioned in the video.

In the manual it says running current is 32 amps?

Originally Posted by RSD

In the manual it says running current is 32 amps?

I'm not sure where you read that, but on page 9 (also on page 12) of my manual it says that the full load amperage draw is 17A. And the label on the motor says 14A.

Originally Posted by KahoyKutter

I'm not sure where you read that, but on page 9 (also on page 12) of my manual it says that the full load amperage draw is 17A. And the label on the motor says 14A.

Ah just took another read, says on page 9 that the draw is 17 amps but the circuit needs to be 30 amps (can't get to the label on the motor of mine to read its label). Is the 30 amps to accomodate starting load?

Just check that you are not reading the specs for the US 110v model. A single phase 3 HP motor should only draw about 10 A at 230v.

Originally Posted by Bohdan

Just check that you are not reading the specs for the US 110v model. A single phase 3 HP motor should only draw about 10 A at 230v.

It clearly says
Running AMP (with 8" inlet) 17A at 240V on page 12, on page 9 it says the machine is wired for 240 volts, 50 HZ and that Amp draw is 17 Amps. Odd!

That means it is drawing 5 HP while only delivering 3? - a very inefficient motor or an extreamly low power factor.

I wouldn't trust any of those numbers but would put a meter on the cable and see what it actually draws.

It could also be that the fan in a no input ducting condition draws 5 HP but when the ducting is fitted this drops to a continuous 3 HP. Not a very likely senario but possible.

Originally Posted by RSD

Ah just took another read, says on page 9 that the draw is 17 amps but the circuit needs to be 30 amps (can't get to the label on the motor of mine to read its label). Is the 30 amps to accomodate starting load?

I'd like to preface my comment by first stating that I'm not an electrician so take the following with a grain of salt. I've no idea but I think 30A is a bit much for a start up current. If I had to guess, I reckon 17A would be the start up current and the 14A stated on the sticker or the motor would be normal operating current.

Originally Posted by KahoyKutter

I'd like to preface my comment by first stating that I'm not an electrician so take the following with a grain of salt. I've no idea but I think 30A is a bit much for a start up current. If I had to guess, I reckon 17A would be the start up current and the 14A stated on the sticker or the motor would be normal operating current.

I guess you will find out once you turn it on

Originally Posted by havabeer69

Let us know how it all goes tomorrow if your fire it up

Ok, so I terminated the plug and fired her up. According to the sound meter app on my phone, the P flux is 1~2dB louder than my 2hp Jet Vortex DE (69dB vs 67dB) at a distance of 2m. I can also say that the P Flux is more baritone than the Jet and and a lot of the noise is due to the greater air flow. The Jet is a bit whinier.

As for suction, I can't really say because I don't yet have the necessary fittings and there are a lot of restrictions in my current 4" set up so I don't imagine I'll notice any improvements until I upgrade the rest of my DE system.

Originally Posted by RSD

I guess you will find out once you turn it on

Someone's gotta to be the guinea pig.


Oh, and no probs btw. She fired straight up and hasn't missed a beat.

Originally Posted by KahoyKutter

Someone's gotta to be the guinea pig.


Oh, and no probs btw. She fired straight up and hasn't missed a beat.

But did everything else stay on as well?