More Magnetic dust port connectors 3D printed

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Originally Posted by PFH

I've seen both threads... very cool guys!

Just wondering if you are concerned about PLA absorbing water? I've been getting a mate to print some dust collection fittings for me, done in PLA... Now I'm wondering if it was the right decision! Haven't had them long enough to know if they'll fail, so I just I'll just suck it and see??

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PLA will like timber take up some moisture, this can cause issues with printing due to the water boiling out in the print nozzle... some people get obsessed with keeping it dry for this reason but once it is a printed part it's not something i would worry about.

The issue in the typical hot aussie summer in a metal garage structure would be the lowish 65c transition point were it can get soft and deform ... I know my garage can get into the 50's or higher on 40+ days.

The reality is that either PLA or ABS will age with time and get brittle especially if exposed to UV, again not a big deal in a workshop generally. I have ABS printed parts used on my pool that are now 3 years out in the external weather and they seem fine ... because these parts are using in the plumbing i think that a new set will get printed in the next 12 months and swapped in.

Short summary.... don't wonder, it should be all good :)

Cheers
Phil

Phil, I will send you a PM tomorrow,
Thanks,
Crocy.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PFH

I've seen both threads... very cool guys!

Just wondering if you are concerned about PLA absorbing water? I've been getting a mate to print some dust collection fittings for me, done in PLA... Now I'm wondering if it was the right decision! Haven't had them long enough to know if they'll fail, so I just I'll just suck it and see??

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I haven't really give water absorption any real consideration - given that we live in a very humid climate, the outer layer may become more brittle with time, but my guess would be that it will be no worse than some parts I have made from MDF and sealed twenty years ago or more. PLA is supposed to be bio-degradable, but the tests that I have read suggest that in the thicknesses I am using it, I won't have to worry about it in my lifetime.

If I'm wrong - it's really no big deal nor very costly to print again in PETG.

Cheers,

P

Got sort of sidetracked with the project with making a new outlet for the tablesaw.... the factory connection adapts the internal 3" from the below table blade dust chute and also connects the 45mm above blade pipe in at right angles.... talk about blocking airflow.
so we made a bolt on replacement that just expands the 3" to 4" WDV pipe then magnetic connect the flex pipe
Sorry no photos of that yet photo's once i do the overhead pipe connection.

Photos i do have though is the WDV 110 OD adapter to machine connector.
Attachment 490642 Attachment 490643

I'm going to do a similar unit for 4" electrical conduit that is specced at 114mm OD ..... be nice if they all matched

The other sidetrack use connection for the mitre saw table ...
90x120 rectangular to 100mm magnetic connection
Attachment 490644

I got a delivery of slow hardening epoxy resin glue and used that above.
A huge shoutout to Trojan Fibreglass for their excellent customer service.... frigging awesome service actually.

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Originally Posted by Aussiephil

Got sort of sidetracked with the project with making a new outlet for the tablesaw.... the factory connection adapts the internal 3" from the below table blade dust chute and also connects the 45mm above blade pipe in at right angles.... talk about blocking airflow.
so we made a bolt on replacement that just expands the 3" to 4" WDV pipe then magnetic connect the flex pipe
Sorry no photos of that yet photo's once i do the overhead pipe connection.

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Phil, I'm about to start on the TS upgrade thread - I was going to wait till I had the guard done - but that's a few weeks away, so I'll kick a thread off today and you might like to join in there! It's just better for those searching in the future to have all the info in one place I think! Currently doing some 80mm connectors for that too.

Cheers,

P

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Originally Posted by bitingmidge

Phil, I'm about to start on the TS upgrade thread - I was going to wait till I had the guard done - but that's a few weeks away, so I'll kick a thread off today and you might like to join in there! It's just better for those searching in the future to have all the info in one place I think! Currently doing some 80mm connectors for that too.

Cheers,

P

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Yep happy to join in, but will likely cross post into the Harvey owners thread as well.

I've been pondering this all day and really want to try it out... read on.

Mine has a pretty good blade shroud under the table top that is connected to the outside via 3" flex pipe but has no dust extraction of the cabinet itself, except what is drawn done via the under table blade chute. My thought is to do a 6" bell mouth facing into the cabinet but have the 3" pipe connect in the center of that forming a concentric part and path for the airflow. It would be sort of the reverse of the air multiplier effect of bladeless fans.
In my case i would then have to taper that down to 100mm.
I don't see why it won't work it's just a matter of getting the placement right so the airflow is optimised without have access to a wind tunnel :)

Cheers
Phil

got another adapter designed and on the printer today.

designed to adapt 4" electrical conduit that is 114mm by the specs on the outside

Here is the 3D rendering of the connection stack
Attachment 490993
I now have connects from 4" Electrical and WDV along with normal 4" machine ports.

Just to give midge a bit of a push on the TS thread.

Here is temp setup on the Harvey so i stop have the flex pipe do the 180 turn.... the only issue with this is the actual exit out is only 3".

Attachment 491244

So the 100mm dwv brings the piping around to the back and the flex pipe just runs across to the DC at the moment
Attachment 491245

A new saw exit setup with a basic 4" bellmouth setup will likely go in when i get brave enough to cut a new 100mm hole in the cabinet ..... i'm not doing 150mm as the current printer is limited in print size.

Well, bitingmidge's thread and this one have given me the incentive get moving again on my magnetic coupler project. It was stalled due to lack of a satisfactory approach to fastening the magnets to PLA. These two threads inspired me to solve that problem.

That bit of news of course is hardly interesting but after making a few fittings I have some data on magnet choices that might be. When I started the project I bought 12x4 N35 magnets so that's what I used. Following is a table consolidating the information from these two threads along with mine:

https://www.woodworkforums.com/attac...6&d=1615819060

Here's the magnet arrangement for my data:

https://www.woodworkforums.com/attac...7&d=1615819090

Some hose ends:

https://www.woodworkforums.com/attac...8&d=1615819568

wow Dave nice data consolidation work and I had completely missed that you had also been working on this.

Two more bits of subjective data for you. I would call the n50 subject performance strong… certainly strong enough for use with 100mm flex. The second is the magnet arrangement, I found in the 16 magnet set that nnssnnss was subjectly better than nsnsnsns.

I’m assuming that you solved the glueing problem by using epoxy?

Thanks for filling in the blank in the N50 row. It certainly fits the rest of the data. Interesting that the magnet arrangement has a noticeable effect. Yet another puzzle to ponder.

Actually, I was trying to avoid the use of epoxy. The key is, well, sort of a keyed joint. I put a reverse taper on the holes to wedge the adhesive in place to reduce the shear stress on the adhesive to PLA interface. I used polyurethane that swells to tightly wedge the magnet in place.

https://www.woodworkforums.com/attac...9&d=1615843217

I used fender washers to keep the magnets pulled up flush with the mating surface. Clamps resisted the expansion of the PUR.

https://www.woodworkforums.com/attac...0&d=1615843458

Nice, Dave!

Don't forget that alternating the polarity makes removing them a doddle. Just a slight twist and all is well - I thought that might be a stumbling block if there was any lateral load on the connection, but thus far the only time's I've had them separate are when I've been happy they did.: - Once when I moved the Tablesaw just a little too far, and once when I've opened the lid on the drum sander and forgotten to disconnect. All worked as advertised so I'm very happy about that.

@Aussiephil - I'm probably a week away on the TS story. OK try me again by the end of the week!

Cheers,

P

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Aussiephil

Just to give midge a bit of a push on the TS thread.

A new saw exit setup with a basic 4" bellmouth setup will likely go in when i get brave enough to cut a new 100mm hole in the cabinet ..... i'm not doing 150mm as the current printer is limited in print size.

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I'll upload a 4" STL if you like, with a connection to suit a PVC bend. The 4" bellmouth on my TS has made an amazing difference - just need time to have another day of ripping stuff to take some pics. Maybe later this week as I said above.

I've printed my 6" bellmouths in six pieces - side on with no support and they seem to be quite robust and fit on a 210 x250 bed with room to spare.

Cheers,

P

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Originally Posted by dmorse

Thanks for filling in the blank in the N50 row. It certainly fits the rest of the data. Interesting that the magnet arrangement has a noticeable effect. Yet another puzzle to ponder.

Actually, I was trying to avoid the use of epoxy. The key is, well, sort of a keyed joint. I put a reverse taper on the holes to wedge the adhesive in place to reduce the shear stress on the adhesive to PLA interface. I used polyurethane that swells to tightly wedge the magnet in place.

I used fender washers to keep the magnets pulled up flush with the mating surface. Clamps resisted the expansion of the PUR.

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I followed BM with the alternating magnets as it makes a simple twist disconnect very easy but what i found was that with 16 closely spaced that the magnetic fields started to cross over whereas a nn ss nn ss double up order was better .... cost me few i'd already glued.... though to be honest the double up came so i could easily match up to a 8 magnet unit with nsnsnsns ordering.

I like the little taper and if/when i move to 6" or larger then larger longer magnets may be in order and that design should be better, and no harder to draw in F360 :)

I just throw mine magnet side down on the table saw with some wax paper between :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bitingmidge

I'll upload a 4" STL if you like, with a connection to suit a PVC bend. The 4" bellmouth on my TS has made an amazing difference - just need time to have another day of ripping stuff to take some pics. Maybe later this week as I said above.

I've printed my 6" bellmouths in six pieces - side on with no support and they seem to be quite robust and fit on a 210 x250 bed with room to spare.

Cheers,

P

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Got mine already printed with a custom bellmouth section inside the TS that accepts the below table 3" hose as well, so top section inside the cabinet, the green section external and a 100dwv fitting slips over it, just printing a drill guide for the M5 mounting bolts
Attachment 491272