Modifications to a "2" HP Dusty

**FenceFurniture** · 27th September 2013, 04:21 PM

I have a 2HP dusty that I'm about to implement for the first time. It's a 2HP Garbett (?) made in Taiwan type. I plan to increase the inlet to take a 6" pipe, and it will, at this stage for the foreseeable future, only be used on a Hammer A3 31 Thicky/Jointer fitted with a spiral head. The Hammer has a 120mm (~5") outlet.

This is the inlet plate, with the 6" flange that I intend to put on it.

The plan is to cut out the current 5" inlet on the Dusty and silicon snot the white flange onto it.
QUESTION: Should I have the flange on the inside of the green plate, sticking through (and losing maybe 6-8mm of grip for the pipe) or can it just go on the outside? There is only about 8-9mm clearance between the inside of the green plate and the impeller blades, and the flange is about 5mm thick, so I'm thinking it might be a bit too close for comfort.

The outlet on the Dusty (after the impeller) is a 5x6" square, so no mod is possible or necessary (the current 5" inlet is 17 sq.in and a 6" inlet will be 28 sq.in.)

Electrical measurements: with the green plate in place, and no other connection attached (in other words, as you see it above) it draws 8.2 Amps at 905 watts. With the green plate removed it draws 8.8 Amps at 1068 watts. So, is increasing the intake to 6" going to achieve all that much, especially given the choke point on the Thicky (4.75")? I understand that watts/amps is different to airflow, but I have nothing to measure airflow with.

I may invoke a Big Gulp to assist with CMS Tablesaw dust collection, but that can just be achieved by swapping the hose from the Thicky to the BG, so no plans for blast gates etc at this stage.

The Dusty is located outside so unless advised otherwise I have no plans to have any filter (my thinking is that a filter will reduce airflow fairly significantly). Just a plastic collection bag.

I won't go into details of the planned ducting just yet except to say that there will be about 6 metres of 6" waterpipe, going through 3x 90° bends. More detail on that later, as I finf if there are too many questions in one post then they can become buried.

**BobL** · 27th September 2013, 05:06 PM

If you don't open up the 4.75" outlet on the thicknesser you might as well leave the DC as is, just remove the metal Bulls eye/cross hairs in the middle of the DC inlet as they will occasionally block the flow of chips from the thicknesser.

**FenceFurniture** · 27th September 2013, 06:01 PM

Thanks for that Bob. As I expected, with that choke point. I don't have the Thicky yet and I can't tell from the pics if it can be opened up (the hood folds over when converting from Thicknessing to Jointing). Same deal with the Big Gulp - it has a 4" hole. In fact, for use alongside the CMS Tablesaw a 10x4" plastic collector should be a bit more specific than a BG.

**BobL** · 27th September 2013, 06:49 PM

Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

Thanks for that Bob. As I expected, with that choke point. I don't have the Thicky yet and I can't tell from the pics if it can be opened up (the hood folds over when converting from Thicknessing to Jointing).

Mines the same - I haven't decided what to do with this.

Same deal with the Big Gulp - it has a 4" hole. In fact, for use alongside the CMS Tablesaw a 10x4" plastic collector should be a bit more specific than a BG.

With the CMS I would look at what JS has done - his seems to be working well.

**FenceFurniture** · 27th September 2013, 07:34 PM

Yes, that looks good. I'll try the 36mm hose on top first, and I'll presume that won't be fully effective, so I'll also try a 10x4" chute from Carbatec, as they are only $14 or something. All the dust seems to collect in the one spot so it may have a good chance of working reasonably well.

**safari** · 27th September 2013, 10:27 PM

I bought a Big Gulp for use on my midi lathe I modified it along the lines of John Samual and moulded the 6" pipe over the back of the Gulp using boiling water.I attached it with self tappers and then cut out the back of the gulp to match the 6" pipe. Pretty successful.

**FenceFurniture** · 27th September 2013, 10:45 PM

In some recent mods to my ducted Shop Vac system I glued some hoses into the fittings with Polyurethane glue to stop some leaks, and on others that need to come apart I gaffed them - before the gaff, I put a ring of Blu Tack around the joint to seal it (as best I/it could).

**rustynail** · 28th September 2013, 12:50 PM

Brett,
As Bob said, if you dont modify the 4'' outlet your system will only be as good as its weakest link. That said, unless you are going to install a monster jointer/thicknesser or take off an inch at a time, the original setup should be adequate. I run a 2hp unit on my 310 and it handles it fine. I also have a large twin bag three phase unit which I use when the smaller unit is on another machine, but to be honest, there aint much difference when it comes to shavings.

**FenceFurniture** · 28th September 2013, 12:58 PM

Cheers Ken. For the moment I've decided to take the soft option and just use flex hose for the 4-5 metre run, and play it by ear - maybe make some mods later and do proper ducting if the hose is getting in the way.

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